Well, I guess no on knows. Guess I'll check some other Forums. Maybe someone there has run either or both of those rings.

Jake

Quote:

Yep, 1/16 (X2), 3/16 pack

Probe 14772 +.040"

For the 398 CID build I'm into, I'm consider using piston rings I haven't used before and am hoping you or someone else has used them and will give me some feed-back on them.

They're: Speed-Pro R-19100s and Perfect Circle 315-0036

Thanks,

Jake

For the 398 CID build I'm into, I'm consider using piston rings I haven't used before and am hoping someone has used them and will give me some feed-back on them.

They're: Speed-Pro R-19100s and Perfect Circle 315-0036

I'm going to write this last part, even though I know up-front that it won't be heeded, but [B]I'm only looking for feed-back on those two rings. [/B] Not alternate/substitute recommendations like "You should use blah, blah, blah". PLEASE!

Thanks,

Jake

So how'd they check out? Any news yet?

Jake

Quote:

Thanks for the offer but I bought one locally today and already dropped it off at Reher&Morrison.

Good luck with yours.

Jake

Thanks all. I went with the 2618-T61s and dropped them off at Reher & Morrison today.

Jake

Quote:

Well, I'm glad to see your block checked out okay, mine didn't. Pressure test showed a leak where the previous shop did the grinding to clear the stroker crank.

Now I'm searching for a welding shop in the Dallas area . . . Anyone have a recommendation?
Jake

Thanks for the response. I had already read that one and found another one on Diamond Piston's site. Just looking for still more info though.

So far, seems the 2618s are the stronger of the two.

Jake

I've been internet shopping for a set of pistons for the 396 LT1 engine build for my son's car. I've come across pistons made of two different alloy specs - 2618-T61 Forged Aluminum and Forged 4032 High Silicone Aluminum alloy.

I came up blank when I tried finding a site that compared one material with another. Does anyone know the advantages/disadvantages of one Vs the other?

Thanks for the help.

Jake

The one I have is the short one; probably not the one that you broke though. It's in an ACDELCO box - I bought both of them from Chevy and both were in ACDELCO boxes, but mine may not be in the same box in came in.

IIRC one of the boxes got oiled up, so I threw that box away and put the un-used switch into the clean box. No part # on the switch either. The # on the box is 10096136.

Just for future reference, guys: Anything I sell to a Forum member is guaranteed 100% - If you don't want it you'll get a Full money back refund, which INCLUDES SHIPPING - for any/whatever reason; no questions asked. I won't "STICK" ANYONE WITH ANYTHING! Not the cut of my jib.

Jake

Wondering why MOROSO wasn't included in your assessment, especially since they've been in the engine oiling business for many decades.

Jake

While it's out you can also use a digital volt meter to check and tweak the float to give you the resistance readings you need.

I had the desired resistance numbers some years ago but can't lay my hands on them now. Hopefully someone will post them.

Easy mod to do.

Jake

Quote:

How about posting a photo of the broken one. I have a brand new, never been installed ACDELCO sender/sensor I bought from GM last year but I didn't need.

It's the shorter of the two but doesn't have a part number on it.

My son's 96 Vette has two mounted at the back of the block we replaced one of them but didn't need to on the other other.

So if you need the one I have, and it'll work for you, you can get it for a LOT less than $100. If you'd prefer to buy your own, no problem, I'll just leave mine in one of my wall storage boxes.

Jake

Thanks for the info, links and recommendations, Will.

Came at the perfect time since I'll be buying one in the next month or so for a new stroker build.

Jake

Quote:

Is that how you read the pricing? Has anyone verified $700 for the pair is correct?

I went to Thunder Racing and saw a pair for a 95 'F' body in the $300 price range, essentially half the price you quoted. It just seems strange for such a big difference between the two bodies.

Jake

Thanks for posting. I'm one of those who didn't know about them.

Jake

Quote:

Something's wrong with that picture. Way over the top.

Jake

Using my new engine specs, with Engine Analyzer Pro V.3.9 simulator, the XFI 218/224 cam showed the broadest, highest torque band when compared to the 224/230.

The 224/230 isn't listed in my catalog as a XFI grind but one of the mags had one custom ground for use in an engine build up they were doing. In Comp's catalog, the XFI grinds jump from 218/224 to 230/236 with NO 224/230 shown.

I had to choose the 224/230 specs from the XE grinds, not the XFI. So that "could" make the difference.

224/230 would be the logical cam between the 218/224 and the 230/236 since many of Comp's cams move in 6 degree increments.

I just ordered Comp's Camshaft Master Catalog, so maybe the XFI 224/230 lobes will be in it. If they are I'll re-run the simulation and post the results.

But for now and for the engine I'm building for my son's 96 LT1 Vette, the 218/224 makes the most and best power. Could be this is an example of bigger not being better, but I'll know for sure once I plug in the XFI 224/230 specs (assuming I can find them).

BTW, his car is a DD and the engine's being built for best torque NOT HP.

Jake

It's basically a clearancing issue; a little grinding here and a little there, LOL. Breaking through at the oil pan rails is always a concern.

I found a crank designed to clear a .900" base circle cam with .660" valve lift out of the box, so seems that part of it has been addressed.

I was SURE I saved the link but when I went looking for it the other day, I couldn't find it in my Bookmark section. IIRC it was a Lunati.

Jake

Just an UPDATE: I went over and checked out the block and bought it. I continued on up to Arlington, TX and dropped it off at Reher & Morrison (of Pro Stock fame) for them to give it a thorough going over.

This will a project for my son and I for his 96 LT1 Vette.

41x HERE WE COME!

Jake

Quote:

+.060" (4.060") bore and 4" stroke. LT1 block with Oliver main caps in all five positions.

Bore X Bore X Stroke X .7854 X 8 is the formula for calculating CID.

You have to clearance the block by grinding on it vas needed for crankshaft clearance and choose a crank that'll clear the cam, too. Lunati makes one.

Jake

Quote:

WOW! "If it ain't one thing it's another".

When the one on the 86 I had did leaked it was a seal. I just replaced the whole thing. Pricey though.

Jake

Success!

Jake

Quote:IMG]

Unlike other Forums, this one only accepts avatar photos that are very small. I tried several times to post one of the photos I have saved on my computer but each time it was rejected.

So I went on-line and found a program that allows me to reduced the size of photos, but since I didn't buy it the program automatically puts that banner across the face of the photo. Hang on and I'll show you how it was suppose to look:
WOW! The site won't even let me post the photo here. It keep cutting of the first [IMG] part and putting it on a different line. What's up with that!??

[IMG]http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r21/JCAMERON266/WEST%20POINT%20GRADUATION/100_1086-1.jpg[/IMG]

I'll try it a different way, hang on.

Thanks for asking. Maybe now 'guru' will do mods to let us post largers pics, LOL

Jake

Thanks for that info. That's a great price because I've been paying $300 for cast core HR cams.

I probably won't be able to get the prices you do, but at least, now, I have an idea.

Thanks again,

Jake

Just last night I came across a thread from Permatex saying NOT to use The Right Stuff where it can come into contact with gasoline.

This was from the horse's mouth so I guess he knows what he's talking about. Anyone read about that before?

I'll post the link if anyone's interested.

Jake

Good recommendation on the Billet core. I plan to use one too on the new engine I'm building for my son's 96 Vette.

I haven't priced the difference in cost yet though. Any idea on how much more a Billet core is? - generally speaking, of course.

Thanks,

Jake

Also, after you're satisfied with the timing, be sure to shut down the engine, re-connect the by-pass wire and disconnect the battery for 30 seconds or so. That'll clear the code that gets set when the ECM detected the engine running with the EST by-pass disconnected.

Jake

Quote:

Yep, I understand the sequential/batch fire part it's just that I've always wondered about why so many are concerned about their BLMs being split.

I'd like to read up on that condition to learn more about any other downside, other than the WOT issue you mentioned. Someone must have done some tests on that at one time or another.

If anyone knows of a Tech article on that, point it in my direction; thanks.

Jake

BTW, I'm in the process of going through much the same things as you are so I figured I share what I'm doing. I'm in the parts selection process to build my son a 415 LT1 for his 96 Vette.

Since it's HIS car, I've been trying to get a good handle on how he wants the engine to perform - off idle torque, idle quality, exhaust note (you know how young guys are about that - 23), etc. We don't have tail-pipe in my County, just ALDL connection for SES codes. So I've got a bit of a break there.

I've got Engine Analyzer Pro's simulation program which is supposed to be one of the best on the market for data input, etc. I've been plotting in various cam profiles to see what the differences there are in their various characteristics. I'm pulling them out of CompCam's latest catalog right now.

I changed his heads (Dart Pro 1s; 180 cc, actually 189.8 when measured by me), cam and rockers last summer on his stock bottom end 350 and now we're going up in CID. I had a custom CompCams grind made for the 350, so I'm using it's characteristics as a base line for a new cam. That is, to see if a new cam is what's called for.

What I've done is plug in all the specs on his 350, as it is now, and ran a simulation then saved it for graphing. I then created the new 415 engine on the program but with the same HR that's in his 350 now. Then I did a comparison of the two.

From that point I plugged in the specs of many different CompCams offerings so as see what difference, if any, they'd make when installed in the new 415.

I then used EAP's auto chain function to have the program automatically play with the duration specs in 4 degree increments. I'm also playing with LSA differences; then rocker ratio differences, etc., etc. What I'm primarily interested in are the DIFFERENCES between them - not the accuracy of the numbers, themselves. See what I mean?

If I run different cam specs that show an average of, say, 20 lb/ft torque and/or HP increase from the cam he's now running, then I'll know I'm moving in the "right" direction. That is unless the DCR goes too high or something like that. Lots of variables to juggle, LOL.

After all the research I did last year, I decided on a single pattern profile and he's been happy with it, but going up 65 inches may make a significant enough difference to call for another profile - and, yea, another $300, LOL

I just began the EAP Chain function yesterday and, right now, I'm in the same range as you are for a cam- the 218/224 - 224/230 - 230/236 @ .050 area. Since his car is a DD, there are a lot of variables to be considered, a lot other things just merely looking at torque and HP.

I installed a set of Dart Pro 1s on his 350 last year and used the flow numbers from a few different sites (not just Dart's) to get a representative idea of their flow range (not much difference from Dart's #s I might add.) Anyway, I used EAP's percentage CFM flow feature to increase head flow CFM in 5% increments to see if there'd be justification to have his stock 180 cc Darts ported to achieve a 5% flow increase. I'm looking at the cost/benefit side of the picture on that.

In other words, I'm trying to see if it would be of a cost benefit to have them ported for the power increase that it would provide. So far it seems doing that wouldn't be worth the cost. I'm still in the analysis part though, so I haven't made a decision on that.

May well turn out to be the same as with the cam.

Hope some of this helps.

Jake

Not a problem; I'm with you on accuracy and precision
and I try to keep down as many as I can in my posts. But, hey, none of us is perfect so it happens.

My primary concern is not to critique anyone's grammar, etc. but when I respond I want to be as sure as I can that I actually understand what the OP means.

I'm a member on about ten other Forums and I do the best I can in the reading comprehension department. Most times I can figure out what the OP or responder "meant" but occasionally I can't; that's when I ask for a clarification.

I just updated my profile so that other members can see I'm actually NOT an idiot, LOL.

No harm; no foul.

Thanks for understanding.

Jake

Quote:

The word "modified" should give you a clue.

Jake

Quote:

Another thought on the mis is even the tinest exhaust leak. My 415 L98 had a pin-hole in the header tube above #5 and even though it was ONLY A PIN HOLE, it caused a mis and change in idle quality.

Just a thought.

Jake

Hey, Buddy; What's Up?

Yea, that's always an option and I considered going that route and may end up having to, but doing that'll add substantially to the cost. So I'm hoping to come up on a deal and I've got a couple I'm considering.

One's REALLY close to me and already had the Oliver 4-bolt main caps installed, clearanced for a 3.75" stroke which I plan to UP, bored/honed, align honed, etc.

I plan to take a ride over and have a look-see in the next couple of days as soon as the seller's back in town.

Being a retiree, gotta watch those $$$, LOL

Jake

I'm about to begin a stroker build for my son's 96 Vette so I need a 4-bolt empty LT1/4 block. In Texas preferably for pick up by me.

Willing to swap his running LT1 corvette short block, less the miscellaneous parts I need off it like Opti, WP, timing chain cover, rear main seal, etc.; swap it for an empty 4-bolt block.

You can have his once I make the swap, probably in a month or so. Whatever time I need to complete the build and swap in the stroker. I'll provide a complete listing of the parts I'll be taking off his so they'll be no surprises.

Buy yours or swap for his; either way works for me.

Jake

How can I post the below as a TECH TIP/STICKY?

The problem of a leaking intake manifold so often surfaces on this and many other Forums, I decided to write this procedure. I have found, over the years, this procedure to be a fool-proof way to address the problem.

However, like so many other things, there are other methods that can work equally well, it's just that over the past 40 years or so, I've found this one to work best for me. Believe me, I've tried a LOT of different methods, too.

Most often, the leak will occur at the rear of the intake manifold in the area we commonly refer to as the "China Wall". Over the years I've come to conclude that increasing crank case pressure - caused by excessive blow-by - causes the sealant (or gasket on engines using them) to be forced out, resulting in an oil leak.

The lessening of torque on the intake manifold bolts can, over time, result in a leak too. Some bolts, over time, can become so loose they can actually be turned with nothing more than your fingers. So we're dealing with a double whammy, neither of which is good if you want an intake that doesn't leak.

I've had my share of intake leaks in the rear China Wall area. Many years ago one of my racing engines was waved off the starting line at the track due to the intake leaking oil. That was so embarrassing, I decided to find a way to prevent a recurrence. What I finally came up with is a combination of "old" and "new" school applications.

So here's how I now do it:

In removing the leaking intake, special care should be taken to insure no foreign particles fall into the lifter valley or down the holes in the block used for oil drain-back or the distributor/oil pump drive. It may be difficult to prevent every piece from falling in, but if one does, be sure to pick it/them out.


Next, all the mating surfaces must be cleaned thoroughly to be free of any oil, coolant or gasket material. This can be done using something as simple as carburetor/brake cleaner. I prefer brake cleaner since it leaves no residue. Go over the surfaces several times to be sure all residue has been removed. This is critical to allow the sealant to, well, seal and not move.

Once the block, heads and intake are squeaky clean it's time to improve the ability of the sealant to adhere. I specified sealant since the cork or rubber gaskets that still come with some intake manifold gaskets SHOULD NOT BE USED - DISCARD THEM!

I then dimple BOTH China Walls (front and rear) on the block using a nail set; this is the Old School/Old Racer's trick. I also do the same dimpling on the corresponding areas on the underside of the intake manifold, both front and rear.

The little dimples give the silicone sealant (to be applied later) something to "bite" into. Although I've never actually counted them, I guess I end up with around 30 or more dimples at each of the four locations. I space them about 1/8" apart.

I have a photo of the dimples I installed on my 388 if you're interested. I'd post it here, but I think it would 'time-out' over time and no longer be viewable.

I simply use a normal claw hammer and a nail-set to create the dimples. They only have to be deep enough to grab your finger-nail. The process is easy to do and doesn't take long.

After all are done, I wipe down the areas with a rag wetted with brake cleaner a few times. The cleaner will evaporate quickly leaving a clean, dry surface.

I use Permatex Sensor-Safe Silicone Sealant (SSSS), this is the New School trick. I apply a thin layer on BOTH sides of the intake gaskets and apply it around all the intake ports and all the coolant openings (if the intake manifold has them).

Some prefer using other sealants, like 'The Right Stuff', etc., but Permatex SS has always worked for me - so "if it ain't broke don't fix it" is my train of thought.

Then I set the gaskets in place and lightly press down on them to position them correctly on the cylinder heads.

I then apply a 3/8" diameter bead of SSSS to the China Walls. I use a 3/8" bead rather than the 1/4" bead you may see in some manuals. I've found that a 3/8" bead seals better. If you're unsure of the diameter, just take a look at the diameter of the threaded end of a intake manifold bolt; that's 3/8".

I carry those beads, unbroken, up and onto the four corners of the intake manifold gaskets to seal the areas where the intake meets the cylinder heads and block.

I then immediately install the intake manifold, BEFORE the SSSS skins over. I want the SSS, while still wet, to be able to flow into any crevice and especially the dimples. Once it cures, usually 24 hours, the SSS is anchored in place.

When installing the intake manifold, I set the intake straight down with no back or forth movement. I look through the intake manifold bolt holes to align them with the holes in the heads.

Minimizing back and forth or side to side movement of the intake is desirable to prevent disturbing the SSSS. STRAIGHT DOWN IS THE KEY!

I then install all the intake manifold bolts by hand, finger tight with Anti-Seize applied to the threads. I always use washers under the heads and lube both of them with 30W engine oil. Washers installed under the heads of the intake bolts more evenly distributes the clamping force.

I follow the torque sequence shown in my shop manual. The torque sequence differs depending on the year/model of the engine, so you'll need to refer to a manual to see which one is recommended for the engine you're working on.

My thinking on this is 'there has to be a reason why GM recommended a certain sequence so, absent contrary evidence, why re-invent the wheel?.

I use at least three steps to torque all the bolts to 35 ft lbs of torque.

Now here's another trick that I feel has always helped contribute to excellent sealing:

I let the intake set for an hour or so, (while I'm doing something else) then go over every bolt in the same torque sequence, tightening (re-torquing) them as needed.

It's not unusual to find that one or more bolts has lost torque due, I believe, to compression of the gaskets. I wait for another hour or so, then go over all the bolts again.

I keep doing this - going over the torque - until all the bolts hold the 35 ft/lb (lb/ft if you prefer) torque setting. After all the bolts have held the torque setting, I know I'm good to go.

In torquing down the bolts, some amount of sealant on the China Walls will be forced out - Not a problem. Once cured, the SSS won't break off and those of you who may be concerned about piece of SSSS falling into the lifter valley needn't be. It won't happen.

For those who may be somewhat anal and who wish to remove the small amount of SSSS which protrudes from the exterior of the China Walls, be sure to wait until the SSSS has fully cured. Then take a very sharp razor blade and slice away the unwanted sealant. I never do, preferring NOT to disturb the seal.

Should it ever become necessary to pull the intake again - like when swapping cams, etc., - the SSSS that's been compressed into the dimples can be easily removed.

If it's done like this, the sucka won't leak down the road.

Hope this helps.

Jake

You might as well my contribution then:

The problem of a leaking intake manifold so often surfaces on this and many other Forums, I decided to write this procedure. I have found, over the years, this procedure to be a fool-proof way to address the problem.

However, like so many other things, there are other methods that can work equally well, it's just that over the past 40 years or so, I've found this one to work best for me. Believe me, I've tried a LOT of different methods, too.

Most often, the leak will occur at the rear of the intake manifold in the area we commonly refer to as the "China Wall". Over the years I've come to conclude that increasing crank case pressure - caused by excessive blow-by - causes the sealant (or gasket on engines using them) to be forced out, resulting in an oil leak.

The lessening of torque on the intake manifold bolts can, over time, result in a leak too. Some bolts, over time, can become so loose they can actually be turned with nothing more than your fingers. So we're dealing with a double whammy, neither of which is good if you want an intake that doesn't leak.

I've had my share of intake leaks in the rear China Wall area. Many years ago one of my racing engines was waved off the starting line at the track due to the intake leaking oil. That was so embarrassing, I decided to find a way to prevent a recurrence. What I finally came up with is a combination of "old" and "new" school applications.


So here's how I now do it:

In removing the leaking intake, special care should be taken to insure no foreign particles fall into the lifter valley or down the holes in the block used for oil drain-back or the distributor/oil pump drive. It may be difficult to prevent every piece from falling in, but if one does, be sure to pick it/them out.

Next, all the mating surfaces must be cleaned thoroughly to be free of any oil, coolant or gasket material. This can be done using something as simple as carburetor/brake cleaner. I prefer brake cleaner since it leaves no residue. Go over the surfaces several times to be sure all residue has been removed. This is critical to allow the sealant to, well, seal and not move.

Once the block, heads and intake are squeaky clean it's time to improve the ability of the sealant to adhere. I specified sealant since the cork or rubber gaskets that still come with some intake manifold gaskets SHOULD NOT BE USED - DISCARD THEM!

I then dimple BOTH China Walls (front and rear) on the block using a nail set; this is the Old School/Old Racer's trick. I also do the same dimpling on the corresponding areas on the underside of the intake manifold, both front and rear.

The little dimples give the silicone sealant (to be applied later) something to "bite" into. Although I've never actually counted them, I guess I end up with around 30 or more dimples at each of the four locations. I space them about 1/8" apart.

I have a photo of the dimples I installed on my 388 if you're interested. I'd post it here, but I think it would 'time-out' over time and no longer be viewable.

I simply use a normal claw hammer and a nail-set to create the dimples. They only have to be deep enough to grab your finger-nail. The process is easy to do and doesn't take long.

After all are done, I wipe down the areas with a rag wetted with brake cleaner a few times. The cleaner will evaporate quickly leaving a clean, dry surface.

I use Permatex Sensor-Safe Silicone Sealant (SSSS), this is the New School trick. I apply a thin layer on BOTH sides of the intake gaskets and apply it around all the intake ports and all the coolant openings (if the intake manifold has them).

Some prefer using other sealants, like 'The Right Stuff', etc., but Permatex SS has always worked for me - so "if it ain't broke don't fix it" is my train of thought.

Then I set the gaskets in place and lightly press down on them to position them correctly on the cylinder heads.

I then apply a 3/8" diameter bead of SSSS to the China Walls. I use a 3/8" bead rather than the 1/4" bead you may see in some manuals. I've found that a 3/8" bead seals better. If you're unsure of the diameter, just take a look at the diameter of the threaded end of a intake manifold bolt; that's 3/8".

I carry those beads, unbroken, up and onto the four corners of the intake manifold gaskets to seal the areas where the intake meets the cylinder heads and block.

I then immediately install the intake manifold, BEFORE the SSSS skins over. I want the SSS, while still wet, to be able to flow into any crevice and especially the dimples. Once it cures, usually 24 hours, the SSS is anchored in place.

When installing the intake manifold, I set the intake straight down with no back or forth movement. I look through the intake manifold bolt holes to align them with the holes in the heads.

Minimizing back and forth or side to side movement of the intake is desirable to prevent disturbing the SSSS. STRAIGHT DOWN IS THE KEY!

I then install all the intake manifold bolts by hand, finger tight with Anti-Seize applied to the threads. I always use washers under the heads and lube both of them with 30W engine oil. Washers installed under the heads of the intake bolts more evenly distributes the clamping force.

I follow the torque sequence shown in my shop manual. The torque sequence differs depending on the year/model of the engine, so you'll need to refer to a manual to see which one is recommended for the engine you're working on.

My thinking on this is 'there has to be a reason why GM recommended a certain sequence so, absent contrary evidence, why re-invent the wheel?.

I use at least three steps to torque all the bolts to 35 ft lbs of torque.

Now here's another trick that I feel has always helped contribute to excellent sealing:

I let the intake set for an hour or so, (while I'm doing something else) then go over every bolt in the same torque sequence, tightening (re-torquing) them as needed.

It's not unusual to find that one or more bolts has lost torque due, I believe, to compression of the gaskets. I wait for another hour or so, then go over all the bolts again.

I keep doing this - going over the torque - until all the bolts hold the 35 ft/lb (lb/ft if you prefer) torque setting. After all the bolts have held the torque setting, I know I'm good to go.

In torquing down the bolts, some amount of sealant on the China Walls will be forced out - Not a problem. Once cured, the SSS won't break off and those of you who may be concerned about piece of SSSS falling into the lifter valley needn't be. It won't happen.

For those who may be somewhat anal and who wish to remove the small amount of SSSS which protrudes from the exterior of the China Walls, be sure to wait until the SSSS has fully cured. Then take a very sharp razor blade and slice away the unwanted sealant. I never do, preferring NOT to disturb the seal.

Should it ever become necessary to pull the intake again - like when swapping cams, etc., - the SSSS that's been compressed into the dimples can be easily removed.

If it's done like this, the sucka won't leak down the road.

Hope this helps.

Jake

If the stat housing is aluminum (like my 86 housing was), many times it'll warp, especially if it's been tightened down too tightly. I had that problem with my 86.

Pep Boys (and perhaps others) sells a cast iron version that solved that problem.

Jake

Quote:

I don't understand what's meant by that (highlighted).

Definitely go forged. Even if your budget is a little lacking right now, hold off until you can buy a forged arm.

Of course I'm sure you know that the crank choice won't effect emissions. Whether the engine will pass or not isn't dependent on the crank being cast or forged.

Jake

So are you saying that only 92/93s suffer from split BLM's?

Jake

Borrow a coolant system pressure tester from AutoZone and use it to check to see where the coolant is coming from.

What year is your engine? Good idea to always post that info in your original post. Keeps us from having to search for it or guess.

Jake

Ive read posts from guys claiming to have split BLMs and they all seemed really upset about that condition.

What comes to mind, for me, is what difference does it make? I mean REALLY make?

The system has obviously corrected for what ever differences the sensors reported, as it should, so where's the cause for concern.

So basically I'm asking, let's say one side has a 132 BLM and the other side 124 - SO WHAT!?

Jake

I did a few retro-fit swaps, on both BBs and one SB and on each I used the 3-piece Torrington bearing set without any issue. I always used the roller thrust button to control foward movement of the cam as opposed to the solid, aluminum types.

However, I did read one post about the possibility of bearing failure but it didn't have much detail and I don't know if it was a Torrington or one like you have. In all the reading I've done over the years, I've never come across any posts on failures, so I don't worry about that.

One thing I did read about was because the guy used the wrong retainer bolts which had thicker/taller heads on the bolts which interfered with the backside of the cam gear. Because of the difference in the heads of the bolts, they stuck out farther.

Only other things I can think of are: Failure to lube the new chain after installing it and failure to fully install the crank gear which caused the chain to run at an angle.

Jake

I changed heads, cam, rockers and T/C set on my son's 96 LT1 this past summer but I went with a GM replacement timing chain set, so I don't know about the one you installed.

Hopefully someone else will chime in with the specific information you need. So consider this a bump.

Sorry I couldn't help more.

Jake

Did you order the correct one for your application?

When installed, does it fit parallel to the crank gear so that the chain won't run at an angle? You can use a straight-edge to check.

The only roller bearing I've used over the years is a three piece Torrington bearing setup for retro-fit HRs. In addition to the roller bearing, it comes with two flat spacers/washers. So mine doesn't seem like yours.

How about posting the brand and part number of what you have.

Jake