I've been using Rotella 15-40, although I've heard the recipe has changed.

It was out of stock so I got some Mobil Delvac 15w40. I did look at a gallon of Valvoline diesel oil, with some of the same API numbers on it, and it said it had more detergents than other oils. I'm not certain that's a good thing. I stopped using synthetic for exactly that reason.

This is going on a 85 with flat tappet cam.

Ack. After reading more on it I just have a headache. Next time around I'll either use Valvoline VR1 oil or get a bottle of STP additive.

Kevin I use Rotella in all my flat tappet engines plus I add Lucas TB Zinc Plus just to be safe. I have not heard that Rotella has changed their formula.The only problem that I have encountered with Rotella 15-40 that at high revs it will foam. Above 5K. That only happened once. I was told by an engine builder that STP didn't have enough zinc in it to be effective!

Im using Ford Diesel motor oil. I used it when I had the flat tappet in my 85 but have since upgrade to a HR but kept using it anyway.

Never had a problem

I put shell diesel into the 79 on the last oil change. I didn't use any additive. I'll have to throw some lucas zinc additive in the next one.

Matthew

[quote]
CentralCoaster wrote:
I've been using Rotella 15-40, although I've heard the recipe has changed.

It was out of stock so I got some Mobil Delvac 15w40. I did look at a gallon of Valvoline diesel oil, with some of the same API numbers on it, and it said it had more detergents than other oils.

Most of those extra additives(detergents) are for soot, acid and oxidation on diesel engines. The only thing they do for gas engines is keep the inside clean, which is a good thing!

Rotella is very good oil, and they only reduced the zinc, but it is still more than other oils. I used it in a couple cars for a while.
The only way to tell is to have an Oil analysis, after a few thousand miles.
Bobstheoilguy website can put you in the right direction for one. Gives you lots of great information about your engine wear and oil.

I called one of my former students that now manages a district Shell Lube distributer. Shell Oil acquired Pennzoil and Quaker State. Since than they have not posted their chemical comps. Rotella is developed strictly for heavy duty engine use. So as diesel technology changes Rotella has to keep up and exceed engine requirements. One third of his clients are car guys wanting the benefits of a high detergent, highstrenght,heavy duty oil. The Rotella syntheic is becoming more popular with the normal automotive owner. Zinc additives have to be added for flat tappet engines. Shell rotella 10-30 and 15-40 has zinc in it.

The Rotella 15W40 is really good oil. They did in fact change the formula (2yrs ago) and reduce the amount of zinc - but like Steve said the new formula Rotella still has quite a bit more zinc content than regular automotive oils.

Shell still makes the old formula Rotella 15W40. It is not as available, but it is easy to spot on the shelf... Just look at the ratings and you will notice that the old formula is NOT CI4+ rated and does NOT have the "Energy Star" symbol.

Old or new formula - Rotella 15W40 is a good oil for flat tappet cams espc considering the price... Other good options if you want to spend $$$, are VR1, Brad Penn, and Gibbs oil. My dad has quite a few lower class oval track motors that must run flat tappet cams and they have all done well with any of the oils mentioned above but the real cheap guys just run Rotella and we haven't had any problems with those engines. The only time he uses additives is during break in... GM EOS.

I run Rotella 15W40 in my 01 Triumph Speed Triple, YZ450F, my girls Kawi 500R, the 76 and in the 92 even thou it has a roller cam. I also use it in my lawn mower because I have a QT left over every time I change the oil in the 92.... As for the foaming of Rotella... That has NOT been my experience. We turn those oval track motors over 7500RPM every lap and I turn my 92 over 7000RPM. Now we do run (really) good oil pans and crank scrapers (in most of them) so maybe that is why we haven't seen it. The Triumph turns over 9000RPM and has an oil site window and since hearing about Rotella "Foaming" in high RPM engines - I look all the time to see if it foams and it never even has so much as a bubble...


Mobil Delvac is also pretty good oil I think. My little brother is the lead service tech at a Volvo Truck dealership. Their Volvo brand oil is re-boxed Mobil Delvac and he runs it in his 97 Kawi ZX11D which just turned over 45K miles... Anyone who knows anything about the ZX11 knows if you ride them hard and can keep camshafts, followers and main brgs in one - your doing something right.
Will

What I learned...

The diesel oils have huge detergent quantities to extend change intervals and counteract the sludge and soot buildup diesels are prone to.

This counteracts the effect of having the extra zinc though. Shell has reduced the ZDDP in Rotella (presumably <1000 or 800ppm?, but now has boron to help with wear protection.

CI-4 = old diesel oil, good zinc level
CJ-4 = newer diesel oil, less zinc.

I give up, too much misinformation out there. Also found several oil analysis of Brad Penn oils that fell far short of the zinc and phosphorus claims, like 50% low.

I run the rotella in my old cars a 30 and a 48. I just saw an ad in one of my old car books for this at 49.50 per case
www.classiccarmotoroil.com
its made in Indiana might fit wit what you are looking for but it's pricy

Valvoline racing oil isnt bad for what youre doing, you can buy the GM supplement to add your zinc over the counter.

Mobil 1 15 w40 synthetic racing oil, has more zddp than the rotella oils hope that helps.

Filled up Sunday, threw some Mobil crap in there and a bottle of STP additive which claims high zddp content.

One of the Mobil 5000 bottles had a giant melted wad of plastic hanging from the inside of the bottle, but it didn't come loose luckily, that would have sucked to pour that in the valve cover. hell, maybe some of it did, I mean, who strains or even watches the new oil going IN to the motor anyways?

This STP stuff is thick as molasses though, next time around I'll probably go with 10w30 or 5w30 to compensate for the thickness.

Gonna go shopping for some Redline MTF for the trans now I think. I'm feeling squeamish about this synchromesh in there.

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I do. But that's because I have to slowly pour it into a funnel to fill through the PCV opening with a baffle on it.

Where did you pick up the STP, just the local parts store?

I noticed the other day Summit had some oils listed for flat tappet cams. I didn't really look in to it too much.

Matthew

i mix mobil 1 10-30 with the 10-40 turbo diesel plus i can of restorer. you can mix synthetics.

I use rotella in my 86, but i've noticed the zinc is reduced
too. I have been running STP 4 cylinder formula. Its in a red
bottle and is a much lower viscosity than the blue bottle.
I don't know the actual zinc level, but i feel better with it.

Check out PrimroseOil In Texas. They have a synthetic oil I used in my Diesel for 15 years

I have an '89 with a 383 and a flat tappet cam. I run 10W40 Valvoline or Mobil or Castrol, synthetic blended usually, whichever I can find on sale. I then add a bottle of Comp Cams Break-In Oil, which I get from Summit Racing. It has large amounts of Zinc.

Haven't had any problems yet, and I have done everything else against the grain with this cam. (It's been installed in 3 different blocks now, and has been run with 3 different sets of lifters!)

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DOnt take this wrong, but why did you put a flat tappet cam in an engine that came with a hydraulic roller?

it might be a solid lifter cam .us old fellas just love who a solid lifter motor sounds @idle .

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To answer your question, Money.

Because I bought a 383 that was already built exactly what I wanted, but was an old style block. I can someday put a retro fit roller in it, but money was tight and I already had this 230/236 flat tappet cam laying around, so in it went. I was saving money for a new engine but mine went out about a year and a half before my wallet was ready for it to go, so I had to cut a few corners while spending the money where it was needed the most (block and heads). The old flat tappet is still serving me well.