Well, theres really no point in going into detail as it's the same thing each time I post....some "miss" just started. Poured sea foam thru oil and vacum line on car as it had been sitting for quite awhile. New battery, oil change, fuel filter, drained tank/new gas replaced fuel sock/pump awhile back. Ran techron/chevron and premium BP gas. Started it up and it's a damn miss. It is a HORRIBLE and I mean horrible miss. If it's running on SEVEN cylinders, I will be shocked. It feels like a weak 4 cylinder trying to accelerate and the revs jump up but it's not wanting to go. Im thinking bad plugs or wires....Checked everything else out...Will try to post up a sound clip or something later if I can't figure it out...I hate my car sometimes...

Runs great and then all of a sudden, it's crap again.

Vacum leaks, bad plugs, bad wires, bad cap/rotor, coil ect....I know all that.....The cap/rotor are practically new, no vacum leaks, maf is clean and no codes, Everything is great that my eyes can see....Hmm....Also believe I have a leaking exaust manifold gasket as it's making that dreaded exaust ticking sound i have heard before. Shoulda replaced both sides when I found out about that failture.....Ugh...

Anyway, sorry for the long post but am just throwing my thoughts into this post so it's all a big brainstorm of ideas flowing thru my mind and onto the computer screen...

Hmmm....Back to the thinking chair!

Im going to also add, it's not the cats, EGR, air pump, ac system, heating/cooling system or any of that stuff becuase it's all been upgraded and or deleted if possible. The car is hardly driven enough to pollute and I had all the emissions taken out of the chip by pcmforless. Might I add, Alvin is a damn good tuner!

Injectors?

Oh god...What if I spun a bearing doing the sea foam or something.....Ill be right back, going to get a video or sound clip uploaded!

I need some engine techs in here ASAP!

Why in the hell did you put SeaFoam into the oil?

Drain and change the oil ASAP!!! Filter, too. Depending on run time with the SeaFoam, it might not have hurt anything.

As for the miss, check that all the injectors are working and that the plugs/wires are ok.

This should be an object lesson in parts selection. I know you are a on a budget, but never ever buy cheap engine parts. If you need plug wires, get the good ones - Taylor/MSD. If you need plugs, get the good ones - NGK/Rapid Fires. Same goes with the cap/rotor. OEM, MSD or Accel. Not that I really like Accel stuff, their caps and rotors are pretty good.

Something has died... it's a given. What colour is the exhaust?

Your car is a candidate for an LS1 conversion. Hell, LS1 and T56, do it right, damnit.

hows your oil pressure? if you are loosing a bearing that will let you know. what fuel do you put in it? just because its got new parts on it doesn't always mean they weren't crap to start with.. it happens to the best of them. fuel pressure?

what year car do you have?

86

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I thought you were suppose to put sea foam in the oil, run it for 10 minutes, then change the oil and filter. I didnt drive the car with the sea foam in the oil if thats what your thinking! Im not that much of an idiot. I don't buy cheap stuff. I use NGK plugs, wires were the Napa Big Blue ones, and they are OEM cap/rotor. I do listen when you talk and I did do some homework!. Exaust looks fine. Can't get a stupid video to upload. I will be back in a few.

I revved it up and it sounds like a rattling can going thru the exaust pipes and out the back. Fuel smell so theres unburned fuel being released. Oil pressure is 60 psi~, I used a Napa Gold Oil Filter. Did not go with that large one. Returned it for OEM. Oil looks fine when I drained it. Will check again. Anything else?

I pulled 2 plugs and they are coated in oil which means that my rings are shot because the oil is seeping past them. Im getting a decent tax return so I sent the below message to vette2vette.com a few moments ago.

Jason, I have ordered parts from you before and basically my problem is my L98 is just old. How much would a LT1 or LS1 run used? Im on a bit of a tight budget. Also, Bogus is the guy who showed me your site before. Thanks,

Michael


I tugged on my wires and they seem to come off loosely. Still investigating and I will show you my "oily" plugs later once I get to dig a little deeper. It's a never ending cycle.... btw, Bogus, you have mail.

P.S. What is this thing thats hanging underneath the plenum. It was just sitting there unbolted and I can't figure out what it is and if it does anything. Help?

[IMG]http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m511/michaelleatherman24/1297625391151__cb7414666a38.jpg[/IMG]

3 plugs fouled with oil

Leaking exaust manifold gasket

Transmission pan leak

tps voltage flucuates which I assume means it's bad. It's OE so it's seen better days

2 spark plug wire boots starting to get burned and all of them come off REAL easily

Choppy Idle

Maf checks out ok

Unidentified piece unplugged or moved(picture posted above)

I just wanna rip the whole damn top end off and figure out what the heck is going on in there!

Would bad seals or rings would foul the plugs which means oils eascaping which can only lead to more trouble.

It's just these little nit pick things that get me all riled up about it.

Off to go take a flashlight and peak around a little more.

Oh yea, I will sell my L98 motor for the cost of a motor to swap in. :P haha....just kidding.

Quote:

That is your EGR solenoid. On one side the vacuum line is plugged into your EGR and the other line goes underneath your throttle body. TB side should be plugged or you got major false air issues.

I'd say, it's time for a compression test!!!

Your O2 sensor might also be fouled if you're running with oil and unburnt fuel in the exhaust.

I've seen some very bad idles fixed with a new O2 sensor/s.

You do have other issues, with several causes and several...probably costly, solutions.

Best of luck.

Compression test.

Another stupid suggestion. Are you sure that you have the plug wires on correctly? I foolishly had the 5&7 wires crossed the first time I did my intake manifold gasket and it ran alot like what you're describing. I swore up and down that I had them on there right. Wouldn't even look at them until after 2 days of cussing and swearing at the car.

Are you sure it's oil on the plugs and not raw fuel?

Hope you find it's something simple!

Also, there is also a Corvette Salvage place in Charlotte but I can't seem to remember the name...damn.

My car was missing like crazy three days ago. Replaced the O2 and its right as rain.

seafoam is suppese to go into the intake tract ,1/3 of can in thru a vac sourse .imediatly shut off let her set for 10-15 min and start . she will run funny for a minute or 2 and put out some ugly smoke out of the tail pipes . cleans carbon buildup in the cylinders . good idea to change oil right after .

Wow, go back and read the Seafoam can.

FYI:

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is blended oil
http://www.seafoamsales.com/tech-info-gas-engines/

USING in Crankcase Oil

Sea Foam Motor Treatment may be used in an oil crankcase 2 separate ways, depending on your needs and expectations. Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre-service, old oil residue re-liquefier / cleaner and moisture drier. It can also be used as an after-service oil additive. In either application, Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re-liquefy old oil residue. Each method is described below:

1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise, pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity, including filter. Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service – Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leave those residues that NEED CLEANING.
2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (based on mileage since last oil change), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, and then regularly monitor your oil for color and clarity. Set a predetermined schedule for checking the oil condition on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. Monitoring of the oil for color and clarity will tell you when it is time to do an oil change service. NOTE: Do not exceed 3,000 miles without changing the oil.

Sea Foam is safe to use with all synthetic oils. 100% synthetic oils, and blends of synthetic and petroleum-based oils, were engineered and are manufactured to be 100% compatible with petroleum based oils, all brands, and vice/versa. Without this compatibility, oil manufacturers and engineers would be liable for the results of mixing non-compatible lubricants. Since Sea Foam ONLY contains petroleum oils, it is entirely compatible with synthetic oils.

Remember! When Using Sea Foam in Your Crankcase:

* Check your oil and monitor its color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!
* Change your oil when it gets dirty!

http://www.seafoamsales.com/using-in-crankcase-oil.html

My car was doing that and it ended up being the TPS. The TPS would show no signs of a problem on a scan tool, but the car ran terrible. One day, while logging the car, I saw the TPS voltage drop to zero for a split second. I replaced the sensor and the car runs great now.

Did you get it fixed?