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| Travis93 | How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
 
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I am having a hell of a time with the crank hub on my LT1. After several hours and 2 pullers, first one was not strong enough and broke, I finally got it off and replaced the crank and timing set. Now its time to put it back on and I can not get it the last ¼ inch at all. A 500 FP impact on the bolt got it that far fine but it is stuck big time now. I am about to go try and find about a 4 foot bar to put on it and run out the front through where the radiator was so I can try a sledge hammer on it. By the way the problem part is #45 in this drawing.
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Posted on: 2008/3/7 17:56
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| pianoguy | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Guru Emeritus
 
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Everybody seems to swear by the Kent-Moore hub puller:
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7181 Maybe check with a dealer to see if they have on you could borrow? |
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Posted on: 2008/3/7 18:12
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1996 LT4 �Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them and you have their shoes.�- Jack Handey |
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| Travis93 | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
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That looks like a nice piece but the problem is putting the damb thing back on.
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Posted on: 2008/3/7 19:06
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Transfer
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| LD85 | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Master Guru
 
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Autozone has a loaner tool you can use for free!
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Posted on: 2008/3/7 19:08
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2005/Z51 |
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| Aboatguy | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
 
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Are you sure you don't already have it all the way on?
A 1/4 inch or so of machined portion of the hub sticks out past the seal when the hub is properly installed. I'd believe the if you used a 500 ftlb impact wrench you probably have it bottomed out. Just my 2 cents Mike |
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Posted on: 2008/3/7 19:14
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Transfer
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| Travis93 | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
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Quote:
Would I just ask about a hub installer? |
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Posted on: 2008/3/7 20:06
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| Travis93 | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
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Quote:
I was hoping this was the case so I lined up the balancer and the belts would not line up if I tried to put it back together like this. |
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Posted on: 2008/3/7 20:08
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| Josh | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Guru
 
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Don't hit it with a sledge hammer, you'll push the crank into the thrust bearing and ruin the motor.
500 Ft. Lbs. should pull the threads out of the crank and ruin the crank, so unless you have a special crank with some kind of super strong threads in the snout, I have a hard time believing you put 500 Ft. Lbs. on it. How are you trying to install it? Do you have the factory bolt in there? Here's what I do when I get one that doesn't want to go on: I bought a piece of 7/16 fine thread all thread from Lowes. It comes in 3 foot sticks. I cut off a piece about 7 inches long and then thread that through the hub into the crank until it bottoms out. At AutoZone, they sell a small block chevy balancer bolt kit. It's in the high performance aisle, next to the chrome valve covers and stuff. In the kit is a balancer bolt, a lock washer, and a big flat washer. I use the big washer from that kit for the next step. Slide the washer over the all thread until it smacks up against the hub. Run a 7/16 fine thread nut down the all thread until it hits the washer. Tighten the nut with the car in gear and the parking brake on, or use a flywheel holder if the car is an automatic. This allows you to put a tremendous amount of force on the hub to press it on without beating the crank into the thrust bearing. It is also quite a bit easier on the crank threads, I've stripped them out before doing what you are doing and that will really ruin your day. Another thing, the factory bolt has a thick washer on it, about 1/4 of an inch thick. If you forgot/lost that washer, the factory bolt will bottom out with 1/4 inch or so left. That might be what is going on with you. If none of that works, you can try removing the hub and letting it sit in boiling water for 5-10 minutes. Pull it out with a tool of some kind and handle it with welding gloves or some other kind of thick glove. With it that hot it'll grow a little bit and might slip right on. If you still can't make it work, I've fought with what seems like hundreds of them and could probably get it on for you. Just catch the plane tickets and lunch. One more thing, since you are this far in, you might consider going to a keyed hub set up. I spun the hub on the crank with an LT1 that was making about 430 RWHP. I don't know your set up, but if you ever think you'll make more than 400 RWHP I would go to the keyed set up. Good luck! |
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Posted on: 2008/3/7 22:23
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"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail." - Jack Burton |
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| biggrizzly | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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2011 Memorial Day Car Show Winner!
 
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Quote:
I used the Kent Moore tool and it is both a puller and installer. It uses a ball bearing thrust washer to pull the hub back on to the shaft. I also used some assembly lube on the bolt and the shaft. This helped immensely. Honestly I would not try to put the hub back on without the tools I used or something similiar. |
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Posted on: 2008/3/7 23:58
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Don Haller Corvette Club of America 94Coupe, 383Stroka, PeteK Trans, 3000stall, 3.54rear, Konis and bigger sways. |
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| Travis93 | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
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I was afraid of that too, was just out of ideas thats why I am here. Quote:
The impact gun I used clamed to be 500 Ft Lbs if it is or not I would not know. After the bolt stopped turning and it started just slowly turning the motor over I stopped For fear of screwing up the threads and took the bolt out just to make sure its still in good shape. It is the factory bolt. Quote:
Sure sounds like this is worth a shot. It may not be quite enough force but sure sounds like its worth a shot and even if its just a little more than I am putting to it now it just might be enough to finish the job. Maybe something more like this though so I can hold the bolt threaded into the crank while turning the nut? Scroll down tell you see tool J 41665. http://www.andersonperformance.net/C5_ATI_Balancer_Install.pdf Quote:
Washer is still there. Quote:
I thought of something similar. It has been subzero around here and I thought about sticking the torpedo heater up under the front of the car to warm it up to near room temperature and see if that helps. I thing your idea is better though it would leave the crank shrunk up a little swell the hub a little, sure would be sweet if it just slipped on. Quote:
Might come to that. Quote:
I did not know there were keyed hubs available. I will be very close to 400 RWHP. Where would a good place to get one of these be? Would it fit on without so much trouble? Thank you very much for the post, you gave me lots to think about. |
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Posted on: 2008/3/8 0:07
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| Travis93 | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
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Ohh I did not see that it was a installer too. Is this what Autozone loans out? |
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Posted on: 2008/3/8 0:10
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| biggrizzly | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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2011 Memorial Day Car Show Winner!
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I doubt it seriously, but its worth the check. I have an Advance Auto near my house and how the loaner tool plan works is you buy the tool and then bring it back. They refund your money. I took the puller set home they had and it was a fair quality set but none of the stuff in the kit could be configured properly to reproduce the Kent Moore set-up. I borrowed the Kent Moore from a friend, so I don't have it to lend. You might check for auctions, for sales or just ask around and see what turns up. |
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Posted on: 2008/3/8 0:51
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Don Haller Corvette Club of America 94Coupe, 383Stroka, PeteK Trans, 3000stall, 3.54rear, Konis and bigger sways. |
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| Calm | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
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Hi Travis,
All REALLY great advice for you for sure! One additional thing to consider is the existing key on the crank. On non-LT1 motors, that key projects beyond the crank timing gear surface, the same surface that the balancer rests against....which is no problem because they have a keyway. LT1 balancers (as you know) have no keyway. So GM designed a special key with about 1/4" of the front projecting porton removed, in order that the LT1's non keyway balancer would fit. All this to say that if the key was put in the wrong direction, or has 'swiveled' up above the crank surface,your hub would stop at that obstruction. Just a thought. |
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Posted on: 2008/3/8 1:24
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1995 Forged 385 ZF6 227/234 1.6 FIC30# MSD BBK SS SLP Bullets X-Pipe DynoMax |
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| Notorious | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Elite Guru
 
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At this point you need to pull it back off and figure out what's wrong. Although it's a press fit, it should not take a ridiculous amount of force to reinstall it. And whatever you do, never use an impact for something like this or with any pulling tool. If you're not careful, you're going to pull the threads out of your crank and then you'll be screwed, blued and tattooed. Once you've removed it again, start from scratch. Did you remove any burrs, rust or any other surface defects from the crank snout and hub's I.D.? Did you lubricate these surfaces with anti-seize lubricant or at least with something?
Make your own installation tool but not with crappy ready-rod from a hardware store. Go to a bolt specialty store and get some hardened, grade 8 7/16" NF rod to cut to the required length. While you're there, also get a deep, hardened nut of the same size, and a couple of spares just in case. These are the type of nuts that would generally be used on axle U-bolts. Due to their additional thickness, they will have much more thread contact area. Also get a half dozen or so hardened 7/16" washers. Using a few of these that are well lubed will act as a bearing does in a loading situation like this. Make sure your cut to length rod is threaded deeply into your crank and lube the threads, washers and everything with anti-seize. If everything's been fitted and prepared properly, you can now draw your hub into place with no further issues and without excessive force. Good luck. |
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Posted on: 2008/3/8 2:31
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| Josh | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Guru
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You can get the keyed hub from www.thunderracing.com
I've only installed 2 of them, but both went on pretty easy compared to some of the stockers I've done. You'll have to kind of build/make the woodruff key, but it's not too tough if you have a bench grinder. Some people have been able to find pre-made keys at a hardware store that are the right size, but I've never been able to find one that is 100% right. If you do go with the keyed set up, it is theoretically possible that you could take a dremel or similar tool and grind/sand away a small portion of the inside surface of the hub. The looser fit shouldn't theoretically cause any problems because the key will keep the hub from rotating. I've never tried this, or heard of anyone trying this, but the theory is pretty solid; I think. I also agree that you should pull it apart and check it out. It might be something obvious that is causing your problems. |
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Posted on: 2008/3/8 2:53
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"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail." - Jack Burton |
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| Travis93 | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
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Ok I have come up with some good quality threaded rod and made a few pieces of hardware, sure wish I could dig up a thrust bearing but no luck so far. I think next I will try pulling it apart check it all out clean it up heat it and try pushing it on with this setup. By the way I used motor oil on the inside of the hub for lubrication last try.
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Posted on: 2008/3/8 5:20
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| teebee | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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2014 Memorial Day Car Show Winner!
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Quote:
Travis, I am the one that Don (Biggrizzley) borrowed the puller from. Do you need it? I am willing to lend it to you. Just drop me a line. |
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Posted on: 2008/3/10 2:49
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2007 Atomic Orange 3LT coupe. Borla Exhaust One of Americas' proud Deplorable 
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| Travis93 | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
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Thats great, I have just been able to put the stuff together for my attempt. The weather here put me behind by a few days. Ever make a run to the hardware store dodge cars and even a suv stuck in the parking lot just to get to the door and there is a big sign on the door "closed for snow". just to go home empty handed. Well anyway I will make a try at it tomarrow if it does not work out I may take you up on the offer. Thanks much. |
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Posted on: 2008/3/10 3:41
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| fnsblum | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Guru Newb
 
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Remove and clean both surfaces. Put the hub ID on a 100 watt bulb for a few minutes. It will slide right on. Have a couple wet rags handy to cool the hub. Later! Frank
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Posted on: 2008/3/11 2:48
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93 Red LT-1 Bought in Nov. First mod is a set of Magnaflows. |
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| Travis93 | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
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Well I finaly got it back on. This is the setup I used.
[IMG]http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o286/travisruby/Hubtool.jpg[/IMG] I also heated the hub in the oven before making the attempt. It all went prity good but was still a little bit of a pain. The only 7/16 thrust bearing I could come up with on short notice was a bit underrated, only good for 97LBS, so it exploded just as the hub seated. I was able to put a wrench on the jamed nuts and hold the motor from turning over when it got harder in the end, that worked out very nice. By the way anyone looking for 7/16-20 all thread good luck, there is no souch thing. I ended up with B7 I think it was, still real good stuff. Oh and one last thing, is it even posable to get the plug wires on without having almost everything in the engin bay removed? |
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Posted on: 2008/3/11 2:57
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| FATED | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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I've been following this thread and was probably more nervous than you about it. Glad you got it on.
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Posted on: 2008/3/11 20:21
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1985, Performance Chip, hole in muffler, and other Mods 
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| Rex_Ruby | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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Senior Guru
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Hope you put a little anti seize on everything so next time it comes apart easy.
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Posted on: 2008/3/15 13:00
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'94 ZR1 Black on Black - Haibeck chip, Muffler eliminators and X pipe * PA Plate: OBSSSD '93 Ruby Coupe ZF6 - Muffler eliminators, Blink Blink kit and Polished ZR1 Wheels * PA Plate: OBSSSN '06 Lemans Blue C6 Coupe - Completely stock (wife's) . |
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| Travis93 | Re: How to get the crank hub back on. | ||
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I did but it sure did not help getting it together.
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Posted on: 2008/3/16 1:06
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