Good job. And you are 100% correct on the E-clips. Just a small amount of foreign material will screw up the seating groove.

Joel

I'm coming into this late, but there is one suggestion I would to make.
Have you very closely examined the "ears" of the driveshaft where the U-joint caps ride? Reason I ask is many years back I had a joint fail like this,twice, before I finally found a hair line crack allowing the U-joint cap to move around under stress.

Joel

Good news! A piece of cake, right?

Joel

Here is a cool site I found on a W-body forum. Lots of info on many different cars.

http://arrc.ebscohost.com/

The Login: student
The Password: watc

Joel

OK, I checked mine for power to the AC clutch with key on: AC command set to off. There is power to the black/ white wire.

Joel

Sorry about not checking for power to comp. with key on/AC off.
I'll do that Friday AM and let you know how mine reads.

Joel

There is no relay for the C68, only the C60.

Joel

I forgot to ask this, are you having problems with no voltage at the AC connector or is the clutch no pulling in?

If the clutch is noy "clicking" in, be sure the air gap is not too wide. About .010 - .011 is where it needs to be.
About the thickness of a buisness card.

Joel

Checked my 89 with C68.
Key off= no power on green wire, or the black/white stripe wire.

Key on and set on 60* without engine running= no power on green wire, power on the black/white stripe wire.

Joel

That's all the o-rings you'll need. This needs to be done in a very clean area. I did mine in a large oil drain pan that was clean and washed out several times.
Be careful when you remove the clutch assembly, there are shims behind it that are easy to lose.
As the video shows, seperate the end case halfs one at a time.

And be generous with the oil when installing the shaft seal!

Good luck
Joel

It is really easy to re-seal these Denso's. This link has the best info I've seen, and any part you will need.
Click on the You Tube in the left corner for a good video.

Joel



http://www.centuryautoair.com/index.html

I assume you're going to install a new shaft seal and case O-rings in the compressor?

Joel

What brand did you go with?

Joel

Glad you got it fixed!

Joel

Are you using a piggy-back adaptor? I assume you are. Before buying/repairing a ECM I suggest removing the piggy-back and install your mem-call back in it's original position and try that. At least this tell you if it's the new "chip" or the ECM.

Joel

I have no problem with paying more money for a quality part. But, it seems like most people now want the cheap price and the hell with quality. And what gets me is that good parts could be produced just as easy as the junk parts. Just use good materials and assemble them properly! I'll gladly pay the difference.

Joel

[quote]
flyboy wrote:
At least the cover on the original GM part is sealed, not just snapped on like the NAPA part. [/quote

The magic word here is "original". For the last several years I have come to accept the fact that 99.9% of ALL replacement parts for any car is pretty much junk.
It's a shame that the brand names we used to trust are built just about the same as all the others.

Thanks for the info.

Joel

Nice clean installation! Good job on the flare fittings.

Joel

No other mods. Mine is stock, just way too many new parts over the years! I've done my fair contribution to the "hot rod" world years ago!

Joel

I finally got off my lazy arz and contacted Mick for a chip. As with most 89's, there is a designed 6-7 crank cycle before the injectors will fire. Mick adjusted the crank fuel PW multiplier vs Ref pulse. Mine now cranks 2-3 times and fires off good with a nice smooth idle when cold. Does even better warm.
Adjusted coolant fan to come on at 215*, off at 199*.

I would like to thank Woodstock for taking the time last year to explain this to me, his info helped me understand this much better.

This makes driving the car so much better, nice to have it fire up quickly.

Joel

Thanks for the replies guys.
So,are you folks running a 180 or 195 stat?
Reason I'm asking is with my new fan cut-off temp, I am concerned about always "bumping" against the 195* stat temp with a 189* fan cut off temp. Not even sure what effect this would have on the system. I know I read something about this years ago, can't remember where.

Joel

Quote:


Yea, I forgot to mention thermostat temp. I've tried the 180* several times over the years, I'm staying with a 195*. Even in GA, coolant temps are good. When I use the heat, I like it good & hot quick!

Joel

For you guys with a "custom" chip, what are you using as a coolant temp for the fan to cut on and off?

Mine are at 201* for fan on; 189* for fan off.

This is for a 89. L98 stock engine. Just having a chip done for a faster engine start-up and coolant fan temps change.

Thanks
Joel

Thanks.
I missed that original thread! Good info.

Joel

Hey Mat,
What "conversion" are you doing with the master cylinder?

Joel

Heater/AC blower motor is gone.
About a 20 min job and around $35.00 for parts.

Joel

These folks might have what you need.

Joel

http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/index.php

Here's a some good pictures, should help.

Joel

http://domesticmisfits.net/forums/vie ... rvette+steering+clumn+fix

I sure hope this year model is not like a 2002. The radiator comes out from the front on those! Lots of work just for a rad change.

Joel

I run 195's in a couple of cars. Nothing wrong with them, I was just looking for a thermostat that opens a "tad" sooner. I'll just go back with a 195 and drill two relief holes.

Joel

Yea, I've been running a 180 last few months. Car just runs a tad too cool for me.

Joel

Is there such a thing anymore as a 190* thermostat? I remember using these years ago, or at least I thought I did.
All the big name auto parts stores locally do not carry any, I've looked around on-line and all I see is the usual 160,180, and 195.

Joel

I'm a fan of Actron tools, been using them for many years.
Had the old cartridge style scanner back in the early 80's and it still works good. A few years ago I bought a CP 9145, OBDII and OBDI. Does everthing I need! Plus the local parts house usually has them in stock.

Joel

Very nice. I like the low shine, looks OEM.

Joel

I've had a few of those before also!
The method I've used has worked for me several times.
I remove all the lug nuts, leaving only the stripped one. Using a pry bar or something to get behind the wheel and apply pressure outboard at the same location as the lug nut. This will push the wheel against the lug nut and sometimes enough to get the nut to grab enough threads to back out. You will need to use a thin wall socket for the lug nut instead of a regular lug wrench.
A helper with a strong back would be good also.

Joel

Anything here help?

Joel


http://www.repairconnector.com/catego ... ETS/?sort=featured&page=1

Merry Christmas! And have a safe and happy holiday!

Joel

I've always had good luck with SEM products.

Joel


http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=242

Thanks guys. I was leaning towards a pancake style, should be enough for his needs. I had looked at the same one in Bill's first link, plus there is a Home Depot less than 2 miles from their house!

Joel

Need some opinions on a compressor I'm wanting to buy for the son-in-law for Christmas. Don't need anything to run any tools (does not work on cars!). Mostly just car/bike tires, kids toys and possibly hobby stuff.
It's been over 20 years since I've shopped or even looked at compressors. My old Craftsman 12 gal/3 hp has served me well. I wasn't too impressed with the new Craftsman, everything I looked at in the $100-$150 range only had a 1 hp motor.
I've noticed a lot of dual tank compressors, with approx. 6 to 10 gal and 2 or 3 hp motor. Any experience with this type? Any advantages/disadvantages with this type?

Thanks
Joel

As far as the reason the diaphram failed, any movong part has a fatigue limit. Your's hit the number.

And no, do not tuck the "rubber" under the cap.
Lube the diaphram edge around the holes with a light coat of lubricant. This prevents the screws from grabbing the rubber and pulling it off center.

Check the fuel pressure/ bleed down prior to installing plenum, just in case there is a problem.

I changed mine yesterday due to the pressure not holding, but my diaphram was good. It was the disc seat on the diaphram not sealing to the regulator body. Less than 2 years old, BWD brand.

Joel

Most NAPA stores have a kit with all the O-rings required, also Advance has about the same. If not, these folks have everything you need.

Joel

http://www.ackits.com/c/oringkit/HNBR ... Neoprene+O-Ring+Kits.html

Here ya go

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/weba ... -P_N3569_T%7CGRP2001_____

They also have the valve core.

joel

Yes, the valve can be removed. IIRC it just sits deeper in than a regular type (tire) valve. I'm thinking NAPA has the tool, not certain. I know the AC supply sites have them.

Here is one site for new valve:

http://centuryautoair.com/mcart/index.cgi?code=3&page=0&cat=9


Joel

Good morning. I'm still here too.

Joel

I just re-read that site. Those numbers seem a little to me.

Check your underhood sticker for the total amount of oil for the system.

Joel

There is really no exact amount of oil when replacing seperate componets of a AC system. At best it is an educated guess. There is an exact amount number of ounces when replacing the complete system. But, with that said here is some info that will get you close.

http://www.a-aironline.com/Articles.asp?ID=151

Joel

I was looking at the picture from the link to Eckler's and noticed the "eyelet" that appears to be a ground source. I on my 89 if the filter does not have a real good ground the tach will be "lazy" and bounce some.

Joel

When you described the problem as feeling like "a bad accelerator pump", I remembered my 89 did this years ago. My problem was the TPS had a dead/weak spot in it also around 30-40 mph. I don't remember the RPM range now, been too long ago. Can you scan the voltage from the no throttle position thru a smooth opening of throttle? Should raise steady from approx. .54 volts to approx 4.8/5.0 volts.

Joel

OK, just a quick update. I decided to tap the hole and use a 10-32 screw. I "wrapped" the threads with the Waterweld from JB Weld, this was the first time using this particular epoxy. It is NOT user friendly trying to finese around a small screw. It would be great for a larger hole.
Carb is back on and running very nice as of right now.
I'll do another update in a few years on the sealer on how good it stands up to gas!

Thanks for the replies!
Joel