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   All Posts (djxib)


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Re: Thurs 8-8-2013
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
Doing some work for the courthouse should get you some points Tom, if ever you are caught drag racing your Corvette around town.....you never know....

cloudy here and looks like rain....working in office this week. It's down to a few more weeks of scouting left and it seems this year its been harder than most but that's just my age I'm thinking....I'm letting the help do more and me do less which is the way it must go...

I sat and thought last night of the Corvettes I've had and wrote down the engines. I don't know why? Anyway I've enjoyed these.....L75, L75, L79, LS5, L48, L83, L98, L98, LS1, LS3. No LT engines so that means I have to get a C7....to round out the list.....My favorites are the LS3 and LS1 and also the LS5 big block was fun.

Better get after it.....enjoy your day Guru's...



Need to round it out with a 92-96 C4!

Posted on: 2013/8/8 12:52
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Just listed my truck on eBay. Will try the C4 next
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Ron - sorry to hear that, sending Mojo.

Good luck with eBay...


Posted on: 2013/7/25 13:52
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Replacement Brembo Rotors
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Quote:

-=Jeff=- wrote:
Do you have a picture with the wheel off? Might help to find the right rotor

here is mine now:
Resized Image


Nice!

I'm honey-do'ed out the wazoo this weekend and work is crazy, however I plan to get some quality car time next weekend. I'll post pictures then.

Posted on: 2013/7/20 11:21
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Replacement Brembo Rotors
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OK so here are some pictures.

Jeff - thanks for the suggestions, I'll try racingbrake. Looks like mine are similar to the pictures you posted up except my calipers look slightly different.


Attach file:



jpg  brakes 2.JPG (219.00 KB)
1691_51e934df5bf62.jpg 1024X768 px

jpg  brakes 1.JPG (247.31 KB)
1691_51e935c50a3bb.jpg 1024X768 px

Posted on: 2013/7/19 12:47
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Replacement Brembo Rotors
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My steering wheel has started to shimmy on light to medium braking, and it's clear that the rotors are on the way out.

They are the Brembo drilled / slotted type, the calipers are 4-pot (black).

I'll post up a picture later, but need some advice on identifying the model number/type for replacement (I prefer the slotted-only type) and also best place to buy.

Oh - I need pads too. Recommendations on street/strip occasional mountain run pads?

Cheers!
Andy

Posted on: 2013/7/17 15:43
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Friday chat. 12 July 2013
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Morning guys, been lurking again recently. Still tied up with too much going on, but I'm not complaining, just need to juggle all the fun things in life!

Work crazy but successful, Zilla now has a 2Bar MAP tune and I'm loving it (I will try and find time to post details, and importantly get to the dyno so I can see if I can make over 650 at the wheels), my son is currently 8th out of 35 in this years Formula D Pro-Am and we're headed to Charlotte tonight for round 3 tomorrow.

Hope you have a great weekend Gurus!

Posted on: 2013/7/12 12:21
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Pikes Peak Record now stands at 8m 13.878s
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Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
Shows what paving can do


Yep. Here's the vid:

http://sundayafternoonclub.blogs.topg ... -smash-pikes-peak-record/

Posted on: 2013/7/2 15:19
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Pikes Peak Record now stands at 8m 13.878s
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Posted on: 2013/7/1 17:05
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Further to my last post, the datalog you sent me looks like it was conducted at low speeds and small throttle openings, and my guess is that you experienced a lot of surging throughout the run. I cant see anything obvious, but since your fuel trims are looking pretty good you could try the open loop experiment (set both 'min coolant temperature for closed loop' and 'min coolant temperature for closed loop, cold MAT' to 100 degrees C in the constants table).

Posted on: 2013/6/12 22:15
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Quote:

bam wrote:
Yea those splits are horrible!!! I am really happy with my BLM's now, there are a few lean spots in the data log I sent but I have already added a little fuel in those spots. I really think the timing is making the car buck. It must be pretty obvious that if timing is too advanced (don't know for sure if mine is or not) it would cause the motor to buck.
I sent you an email with my latest data log. Thanks for taking a look at it, I have spent hours looking at these things!


Hi Tom,

Sorry it took so long to get to look at your logs - 3 very busy weekends in a row.

Anyhow, This afternoon I correlated the datalog and tune that you sent, and as far as I can see Datamaster is reporting a spark advance greater than requested by the tune. It's not far off - most of the time it's showing between 1 and 5 degrees higher. I scanned the other tables (for example temperature correction) and cant see a good reason for it. I'm going to try scanning the forums and asking a couple of folks to see if there's a good reason for it. I'm going to take a look later to see if I can see a reason for the surging problem.

Posted on: 2013/6/12 21:53
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Quote:

bam wrote:
Here are a couple of screen shots from data master, one from my car, the other was included with the program, you can see the differences in the timing.
http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pho ... alog_zps5c03a47c.png.html
http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pho ... ster_zps1e75370e.png.html


That's the mother of all split BLM's in the datamaster sample!

Yours looks pretty good, slightly rich but OK. The O2 MV's are both 800+ which arguably means it's still slightly rich, especially if they stay up in the 800's constantly (you should see them dance up and down constantly with 450 being the mid point). The short term counts are the 'right now' measure of the fueling, and below 128 show's they are detecting rich and therefore pulling fuel. The long terms will be incremented or decrement based on various algorithms but they are very close to 128 so if I were you I'd leave the VE at idle alone at this point.

As for the spark, all I can see is 29 degrees. Send me the .uni file and your $DA2 BIN (you have my email) and I'll take a look at the datalog and correlate with the spark table. I'll also promise to post my opinions back on the forum.

Cheers


Posted on: 2013/5/30 2:21
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Weird timing issue
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I've seen that too. The only things I'm aware of that would cause the actual timing to change for a given RPM are the 'closed TPS advance' (that you'll see if you lift off the throttle between shifts) or spark retard due to knock.

I meant to do some research on this a while back but too many projects..

I have noticed however that at WOT the timing is exactly as described at 100KPa unless I get knock (1992).

Assuming your closed TPS advance table maps to your main spark table, 14 degrees at idle sounds very low for your cam, you could try different degrees of advance to get the best vacuum at idle. I run about 30 degrees on mine.

Good luck!

Posted on: 2013/5/27 17:24
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Testing out the the new D44HD Spool
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Very nice launches!

Posted on: 2013/5/20 18:57
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Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
On the initial hit of WOT I am running 11's on the wide band then it backs off to low 12's, should be ok there.


:-)

Posted on: 2013/5/17 15:31
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Andy

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Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: tuning questions
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One other thing - 14.7:1 is good for cruise but you'll want richer than that (I'm told about 12:1) for acceleration events.

Posted on: 2013/5/15 16:47
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
Quote:

djxib wrote:


Great question. I did it initially so I could get a true read on the AFR at idle and part throttle cruise (i.e. without the ECM screwing with BLMs). However, when I started testing I realized that the driveability was so much better so I decided to keep it permanent.

Do you mean the BLM's were all over the place so you could not get a clear reading on actual A/F as a basis to start changing the VE table?
How did you set the prom to stay in OL move the temp up where CL kicks in so that the 02's would never come on?
Your wide band 02 is in only one side right? Or do you have two wide band 02's one in each bank of the exhaust, if not then how do you tune the "other" side? Or do you just figure it's not really a problem having one fueling for both banks?
How exactly do you tune your car in constant OL? Do you take the readings of your wide band combined with rpm, KPa data from data master and use that to adjust for lean/rich conditions? How do you know how much to adjust the VE numbers if your data comes from the WB 02?


Great Questions.

From memory (I'd have to check in the tune) I simply changed the block learn enable threshold to a coolant temperature of 300 degrees or something - so it never gets enabled. I might be getting the terms wrong I can check on my tuning laptop at the weekend.

WBO2 only on one side. I assumed it would be fine for initial tuning, I may add another in the future. Even with Block Learn disabled you will still see the millivolt output from the other O2 so you can crudely correlate what the WBO2 is saying and what the stock O2 sensor is saying. (For the stock sensor it's a little inaccurate but pegged above 900mv is definitely rich, pegged close to 100mv is definitely lean - you can draw your own conclusions).

In terms of adjustment of the VE tables (or % fueling) you still use RPM/KPa in the log. If you are datalogging the wideband you need to work out the percentages. So for example if you see 10:1 on the wideband you have 1 part fuel for 10 parts air. You need to get to 14.7:1 (1 part fuel for 14.7 parts air). Fractional math needed which isnt my strong point so I built a spreadsheet for it. If you are not datalogging the wideband just use the stock O2 millivolts as your guide. Not an exact science but you'll feel it (and smell it) if you are on the wrong track.

Hope this helps!



Posted on: 2013/5/15 16:45
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Once again, something a little different....
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
That's one bad ass 240SX...



Yes - it really is!

Posted on: 2013/5/13 15:50
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Once again, something a little different....
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OK - Alex did pretty good and finished eventually in the top 8. Great result considering it's been 7 months since any meaningful seat time/competition and the transmission started being difficult about gear selection.. (may need a rebuild before the next event).

Here is youtube of one of Alex's tandem runs. His car is the blue one, and it represents a lot of work by the team (including some 4am finishes) to get it done on time.


http://youtu.be/G4cqfjoY5GY


Enjoy!

Posted on: 2013/5/13 15:47
_________________
Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
Ok one last question; when you went open loop did you do it so you could get away from the sthometric A/F ration of 14.7 and run you car a little richer? Or was it something else too?


Great question. I did it initially so I could get a true read on the AFR at idle and part throttle cruise (i.e. without the ECM screwing with BLMs). However, when I started testing I realized that the driveability was so much better so I decided to keep it permanent.

Posted on: 2013/5/13 15:42
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Once again, something a little different....
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Matatk wrote:
Wow, that thing is a beast! What is the platform/details again?


Matt - it's a 1996 Nissan S14, completely stripped and race prepped / pro rollcage. LS2 motor (LS6 heads) fully built and forged, 11.5:1 CR. It's built for low end torque and also to bounce off the rev limiter all day. Borg Warner T56 tranny. The car has a fuel cell, custom front and rear removable bash bars, completely custom harness wiring harness and push-button start.

The car passed tech inspection this morning and looking forwards to some competition tomorrow!

Posted on: 2013/5/11 20:55
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Once again, something a little different....
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As you may know my son competed for some of the Formula D (drifting) Pro-Am series last year. He did OK, but was underpowered with his 300HP turbo 4. So... over the winter they built an entirely new car, with a 550HP LSx motor.

Last week they did their very first test of the car (minus a couple body panels) - they hauled it direct from the dyno shop to the test lot.

This first run was supposed to be a quick burnout to heat cycle the tires, but I think Alex was itching from having no seat time for 6 months.. so this is what he did:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zR-LsLIvyYQ&feature=youtu.be

His first points event is this weekend at Gresham motorsports park, the day after Drift Atlanta. I'll see if I can get some video footage!


Posted on: 2013/5/10 17:58
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
That's a healthy cam for a 350 (or is it a 383?). I would really like to have my wide band log with data master, could you give me more detail about the AC pressure switch, any place I could read up on how to do this, you wide band looks like mine - inovate?
I have split BLM's all through the rpm/KPa bands, so if I want to correct VE tables by dividing the BLM recorded with 128 then use that as a multiplier which BLM do I use since they are split, or do I simply take the average of the two and use that? Say one is 140 the other 120 do I use 130 then?
As for bucking, I call that steady cruise in lower rpm's (1000-1900 where you can't cruise w/o the car "bucking" like a mule. But even very slight acceleration of deceleration will immediately stop it. I have no hesitation when pulling away from a light either with WOT or part throttle. I think what you call cam surge is what I call bucking, it's exactly what I have below 1000 rpm which is really not a problem, the only time I drive that slow in first gear is pulling up the driveway.
My throttle stop screw allows the blades to be completely closed, I have heard you want all the idle air to come thru the IAC, right?


Yes - fully built/forged 383.

For the A/C pressure signal approach - start here:

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/compu ... aster-%96-writeup-535603/

You'll need to look at the pinouts on your ECM to see what signal to switch.

OK so you have the classic cam surge associated with split BLMs. The problem with trying to average the BLMs across the split is that you'll end up in a less than ideal situation, but you could argue its not ideal anyway. Your next step will depend on what you want to do with the car.. let me give you a scenario:

You're staging at the drag strip and the BLMS are split - the ECM is pulling fuel one side and adding fuel on the other side. You hit WOT and the ECM will use the PE tables 'as-is' on the side it thinks is rich, but will add fuel to the PE values on the side it thinks is lean. This means that you potentially run rich down the 1/4 and post a slower time. Therefore a drag racer 'might' consider adjusting the VE table in the areas with worse split BLMs to be rich overall (i.e. therefore the ECM is pulling fuel both sides at idle and the PE tables are always used as-is). This makes the 1/4 performance more predictable.

Ultimately the choice is yours, I dont have a good recommendation for you other than:

1. Triple check everything and try all the tricks that other people have tried with the TB
2. or...Consider a band-aid with the VE table to 'protect' PE
3. or... Go open-loop

Like I say, I'm no expert in this so it would be good for some more opinions!

Posted on: 2013/5/10 17:43
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: tuning questions
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Yep - my car has a cam - its 236/242 with .6" lift, headers and a 3" exhaust with 'H' pipe. I have a heated O2 in the passenger side and the wideband O2 in the drivers side. I have installed a switch that allows me to hijack the AC pressure signal with the O2 wideband output; this allows me to monitor AFR using Data Master.

Some people have had success with the TB throttle stop screw as a test for split BLMs - where you screw it in and out while watching IAC counts and the BLM splits... and choose an optimum position for the screw.. maybe you should try that before drilling out the TB.

One other thing - its easy to confuse bucking with cam surge. For me the cam surge was only evident at very light throttle under about 2000 RPM, whereas bucking was a huge hole at throttle tip-in (i.e. pulling away from a light)that is a result of too little AE.




Posted on: 2013/5/8 23:04
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
You run in open loop so that means you never use your 02's right? Was the reason for doing this the supercharger? Or something else? Can you give me a brief idea of how this works? I am thinking that the split BLM's what ever the cause (unless it is vacuum leak, exhaust leak, which I am sure mine is not, I've checked this out really well several times) just makes no sense, there is no hot rodding reason (maybe for fuel mileage or emissions)to have one bank of the engine rich and the other lean all the time. I am thinking of running just one 02 and running it to both banks in the computer and then tune that side with my wide band. That will eliminate split BLM's, any thoughts? A guy with 6 years of working on this stuff, what you have learned is invaluable, thanks for the help.


The fact that it took me 6 years before giving up should tell you I'm not very good at this stuff :-)

Actually the reason I eventually went open loop was because I was struggling to get the idle right after rebuilding the motor and upgrading from an S-trim to a YSi supercharger. I just couldnt get the idle right so I disabled block learn... and in conjunction with a permanently installed wideband things became much easier. (For giggles you can see my car idling here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zy49rCeDWDA&feature=youtu.be)

I'm not sure I would recommend going with one O2 sensor - but I would like others to chime in here..






Posted on: 2013/5/8 15:31
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: Car rental
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I rent Avis for business every week, and I have a corporate code that I can use for personal use.

However, the best deals I have ever gotten are when I needed to fly somewhere and needed a rental car. After booking the flight, click-through the links for car hire they send you in the confirmation email. I got 60% off a Tahoe in Utah and 70% off an Audi A5 in the UK, both with Hertz.


Posted on: 2013/5/6 17:49
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
I really appreciate the comments, feedback here, otherwise one feels lost in the woods!!

I will try your suggestion on the PE, I was going to change it but for now I will leave it alone and do another data log first.

One question I have is; why the two 02 sensors? My 08 Grand Prix only has one located back of where the two manifolds join into one. The timing, map readings, temp readings are all the same for both banks of the engine,if so then why change the fueling. I can still see the split BLM's (although I have not logged since smoothing the VE tables, they may have improved but I doubt it) I am thinking this is because of the hot cam (112 lobe separation) and the LT1 intake short runners?? If I am right the problem is enhanced by having 2 02 sensors which are always trying to compensate for the reversion in the intake and constantly fighting against themselves. Andy any thoughts, have you been able to eliminate or improve on the split BLM issue with these motors?


Ahh - split BLMs. The curse of LT1 hot-rodders everywhere.

Firstly - 2 x O2 sensors allows for more fine tuning of the feedback to the ECM. In batch fire systems like 92 and 93 vettes it can adjust for general imbalance per bank. However it really comes useful for individual cylinder trims in 94 (95?) and later cars, - I'm told that the O2's are fast enough to allow the ECM to trim fuel per cylinder.

Split BLM's seem to have a lot of theories - many people have had success by fiddling with the VE table, IAC ports, throttle adjustment screw.. or even finding imbalances in the per-cylinder idle holes deep within the intake. I run my car in open loop all the time - I have a wideband gauge hooked up so I can see AFR, and it completely fixed the 'cam surge'. Not sure if I have any advice for you except that I chased my split BLMs on and off for 6 years before going open loop.



Posted on: 2013/5/6 12:12
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Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
3-5" of snow here in the good ole midwest - yuck!! Here is what I have so far;
1)WOT still too rich. Adjusted the PE% Change to Fuel/Air Ratio vs. RPM table back off stock settings, result; WOT is a little less rich but now initial tip in at very low rpm's at part throttle is going very lean.
2)VEMaster is really messed up, I can now read the bin file it creates with C.A.T.S. but all the new numbers in the VE tables are really wacky, all over the place, really strange. I even tried it on another computer with no better results. I have a feeling this will never be figured out?! frustrating.
3)Initial tip in is worse as 1) above but I am thinking that I will go back into PE vs rpm and increase it below 1200 rpm and cut it back some more above that hopefully that help both, we will see.

One extra note, in C.A.T.S. I have adjusted the VE tables in the full graph mode. I could much more easily see peaks and troughs and smooth them out. The VE table is really smooth now and I can really tell it in cruise, the bucking is finally totally gone. nice!

I still could use some help here, any knowing comments appreciated.

Plus checked plugs yesterday engine is not running major lean or rich. All plugs a nice clean, tan color.


Glad you're making progress! I recommend that you dont mess with PE for your low RPM tip-in issue (unless PE is set to come in at 30% throttle, you should check that).

I suspect that as you've cleaned up the VE table it has highlighted an Accel Enrich problem that was maybe being masked by a poor VE before. You can try AE vs Coolant (which is kind of a global modifier on AE) to see if it improves tip-in - you can be fairly aggressive on this table (i.e. multiply the existing number by 1.3) to see if it helps or hinders. AE is very hard to finely tune - I am going to be trying to get mine correct soon and I have bought an Ostrich for real time updates and I will be using dyno time so I can do hundreds of tests under load.

Good luck!

Posted on: 2013/5/3 15:37
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Delco Alternator 25888970 $175 shipped CONUS
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I think this fits LS2/LS3 cars but the buyer will need to check.

This is a brand new OE alternator that was dinged in transit and has a crack in the electrical connector (see picture). Maybe a JB Weld job. Otherwise cosmetically looks perfect.

Anyway these retail for $300 at Summit so I'm thinking $175 shipped is a good deal.

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jpg  LS3 Alternator1.JPG (213.74 KB)
1691_5182946be05fd.jpg 1024X768 px

Posted on: 2013/5/2 16:29
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Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
Thanks.
I understand 1. PE vs RPM table, ok.
however 2) you lost me on this. Are you sure VE makes a new bin file because the version I have made a new text document that has to be opened with a word processor. The version of cats I have can't open it as far as I know. What are "peaks and troughs"? I presume they are related to rich and lean but how and what do they mean? Is high rich or lean? What I was trying to ask is; How does the new VE table created in the text document by VE Master get into the bin file, do you compare the two and manually make the changes? or am I missing something simple.


Hmm (scratches head). The version of VE Master that I use actually takes the old BIN file and creates a new one based on the data log. If your version creates a text file you'll have to take the new values and key them manually into your BIN.

When I say 'peaks and troughs' I was referring to the VE tables once the new values have been plugged in from VE Master. So, if you look at the VE table in graph view, you will see the new values have created mountains (richer) and valleys (leaner) in the picture - these will give you an idea where you need to do some work in smoothing out the table.

Good luck!

Posted on: 2013/4/26 14:19
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Re: tuning questions
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Quick answers to your questions, will allow you to experiment a little:

1. PE vs RPM allows you to fine tune WOT fueling
2. VE Master creates a new BIN file. Check it in CATS afterwards and you'll probably see some peaks and troughs because the datalog will not have touched all areas of the BIN. Use the new BIN as a guide to where you are running rich/lean
3. Yes - Initial tip in is one of the hardest things to tune. Get the VE tables right first, then (from memory) the best place to start on the AE vs Coolant table which provides general enrichment on part throttle (i.e. the bridge thru to PE).

Hope this helps

Posted on: 2013/4/24 14:54
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Re: 2013 LTX shootout
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I'm very tempted to do this. Make it a few days trip - drive up from ATL in the beast.

Hard to make out the classes, the LTX shootout site has a bunch of .pdf files and its hard to do a comparison, I need some kind of FAQ to help me choose a class.

Posted on: 2013/2/11 13:49
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Re: Coolant temperature senders - mystery solved (or at least resolved)
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Brian- I 'upgraded' the cooling system to a 96 configuration- which was primarily a water pump and different cooling hoses. The basic flow through the radiator and into the heads / block then out again is unchanged. The pipe at the rear of the heads is unchanged too. I'm convinced it was a bad sensor or wrong P/N- I've drained and reburped coolant on this car 10 times in 8 years!

Posted on: 2013/1/22 0:56
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Coolant temperature senders - mystery solved (or at least resolved)
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When I put the refreshed motor in my car over a year ago, I broke the coolant temperature sender (the one that goes into the passenger side head). Because I have LT4 heads and intake I ordered a 1996 sender. (My car is a 1992).

Since that moment my analog gauge has read 30-40 degrees hotter than the digital readout on the dash. I tried reburping the coolant system a few times but it was consistently higher.

So today I decided to take advantage of the MLK holiday and I changed oil and did a coolant flush - I also bought 2 new sensors (water pump and passenger head),

Voila - the analog gauge now tracks with the digital gauge (or at least the best I can tell given the gauge markings).

It also behaves exactly like it used to before the refresh. So I wont freak out every time the digital gauge shows 200 (because the analog would previously show 240 ish).

The problem was either:

1. Inadequate reburping
2. A bad sender from the factory or..
3. the 1992 sender is calibrated differently from the 1996..

Thought I would share.

Posted on: 2013/1/21 23:08
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One car that Audi should sell in the US..
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Some of you know I'm in the UK on 'family business'. Probably coming back to the US in the next week or so.

Anyhow, while here I got a deal at Hertz, and a subsequent free upgrade put me into a black Audi A5 sportback (S-line) with a 3.0 Turbo Diesel motor. The motor has 204 HP at around 3500 and 333 Ft-lbs of Torque at a ridiculously low 1250 RPM.

This thing is a complete blast to drive, gets 45 mpg at 75mph (UK gallons, so I suppose closer to 38 US mpg), looks amazing. 0-60 around 7 seconds but feels quicker.

Room for 4 adults easily, huge trunk, great interior and drives really nice... easy to go fast in the twisties. They even sell a 4-wheel drive diesel version with an extra 60 ft-lbs of torque.

Real shame that Audi doesnt sell the A5 sportback nor diesel engines in the US.

I Want!!

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Posted on: 2012/11/17 10:07
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Received a semi-decent offer for the beast yesterday
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..at a local car show. Kind of weird how it came about, my car was #23 in the show. This guy was all fired up about my car so I said he should vote for #23, however maybe due to background noise he heard me say it was for sale for $23k and he said holy cow I'm getting my checkbook.

So after we laughed about the mix up (and after firing up the beast) I double checked he would be interested at $23k and he said absolutely. We exchanged details and I said I would get back to him.

So I'm kind of on the fence about this. I have a total of about $33k in the car (plus 1000's of my own labor hours) and I've had 8 years of fun.. cheap motoring if you average it out. My overall project with the car is nearing completion so I need a new project, however I'm not getting any younger so I need to get some quality track time and I've started to think about turning it into a full track car.

The problem is that the beast, being a convertible, could be pretty tough to get it fully prepped (including rollcage) for dedicated track use.

My options are:

1. Follow my original plan 'A' (do what I can with the 'vette) - not sell the 'vette, update to a 6-point rollbar, maybe buy a hard top, suspension upgrade and then autocross/track within the limits of the 6-point. or:
2. Plan B (full track) is to sell the 'vette, pick up a dedicated fun-race-car, like a race prepped Nissan 240, Miata etc and maybe upgrade my GTI DD with more power
3. Plan C (Awesome DD) is to sell the 'vette, transfer the lease on my GTI and lease/buy a brand new car that could see occasional 'casual' track duty.. like a newer vette, 3-series, Boxster, etc... that way I have a reliable, fast daily driver, trackable in certain events and only one car to clean/insure etc.

If I sell it I'll miss the goggle eyed responses to my supercharger setup..

My wife is all over the $23k, like new carpets etc. That will NOT happen :-)

Either way I have a busy work week, so I'll think on it for a few days. Isnt life interesting when you have choices?

Posted on: 2012/9/17 15:36
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Re: By popular demand - the 'beast' at idle...
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Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
Quote:

djxib wrote:

Hi Brian,

Its a 236/242 0.6 lift (1.6RR) on a 115 LSA. Not a huge amount of overlap but enough to cause split BLMs and reversion problems. I'm currently running an open loop tune.


Are you running a 2 BAR MAP?

That's close to mine (with a lot more boost)
but it's a MAF car with the stock 1 BAR MAP
The MAF lets is know that there more air coming through.

No issue so far,


Hi Brian - 1-Bar MAP, Speed Density. All fueling managed through the PE tables, works great!

Posted on: 2012/8/24 17:03
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Re: By popular demand - the 'beast' at idle...
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Quote:

1Fast04Vert wrote:
Awesome, we really need to take it to the track sometime soon.


Yep. Maybe in a few weeks?

Posted on: 2012/8/22 23:50
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Re: By popular demand - the 'beast' at idle...
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BrianCunningham wrote:
Nice smooth idle

Mind if I ask what cam you went with?


Hi Brian,

Its a 236/242 0.6 lift (1.6RR) on a 115 LSA. Not a huge amount of overlap but enough to cause split BLMs and reversion problems. I'm currently running an open loop tune.

Posted on: 2012/8/22 20:49
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By popular demand - the 'beast' at idle...
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Posted on: 2012/8/22 20:29
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Re: Tuesday Chat 08.21.12
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Quote:

pianoguy wrote:
Quote:

djxib wrote:
Not sure I want to read that article either!

Found a couple hours to myself this morning - very unusual. Cruised in the 'vette and did some datalogging. Was just chilling at a stop light and some guy in a regular sedan pulls up alongside me and says "dude - that sounds remarkable".

Yes it does, yes it does.


Outstanding! I think it's time for a video ;-)


Yes - I agree. I'll try and get something set up this weekend (or sooner!)

Posted on: 2012/8/21 18:07
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Re: Tuesday Chat 08.21.12
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Not sure I want to read that article either!

Found a couple hours to myself this morning - very unusual. Cruised in the 'vette and did some datalogging. Was just chilling at a stop light and some guy in a regular sedan pulls up alongside me and says "dude - that sounds remarkable".

Yes it does, yes it does.

Posted on: 2012/8/21 17:34
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Re: My 89...new tint and paint detail
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Quote:

-=Jeff=- wrote:
Quote:


Resized Image


Looking good.. I did 35% on my vette last year

now all you need to do is lower it a little and give more of an evil stance

Resized Image


Looking good guys!

Posted on: 2012/8/17 17:38
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Re: Just installed a switch for datalogging
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Quote:

1Fast04Vert wrote:
Guess that means we will be getting chilly weather.


Hey Andy!

Yes indeed - cool weather on the way.

Posted on: 2012/8/16 22:31
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Just installed a switch for datalogging
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When I installed the PLX wideband a couple months ago I hijacked the A/C Pressure signal on my ECM for the wideband 1-5v output (this allows the Datamaster datalog to show the AFR). As a result I have not used my A/C since.

This week I got hold of a high quality switch and installed it under the center console lid - I can now switch the ECM signal between the A/C pressure sender and the wideband output.

Biggest pain was running the wires, but was a fairly simple job.

Hello A/C !


Posted on: 2012/8/16 22:10
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Re: New ride
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Congrats - great color!

Posted on: 2012/7/30 17:58
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Re: It's the Friday Chat 07.20.12
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Morning Guru's. Planning to wrap up some work stuff today to focus on a weekend of DNBFS - car show tomorrow (an early Toys for Tots fundraiser) and a drift event at Atlanta Motor Speedway on Sunday.

Also looking forwards to the Olympics

The green monster is now running up to 6k RPM with the new fuel pump but my scans show I'll be out of pulse width in about 100 RPM (at that point it will be 100% duty cycle on the 60lb-ers). So.. in order to run this baby up to 6500 at 80-85% duty cycle I'm going to need an extra 20% fuel pressure or install 80lb injectors. Both these options have downsides.

Anyway - weather is a little cooler (80's) but still very humid. A bit easier to do yardwork - so I might finish off jet washing the driveway tonight.

Happy Friday!

Posted on: 2012/7/20 12:40
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Re: tuning and MAP questions
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Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
Its the xtreme energy 266HR-14, rated for 1-5k. I am not ready to go to the FMU. It is the one with the adjustment screw and will raise the fuel pressure while in boost.


My mistake - I was looking at the overall duration rather than duration @ 0.050".

Posted on: 2012/7/12 13:20
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Re: tuning and MAP questions
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Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
I don't have datamaster. I have a wideband that I am watching, and pulling random plugs. It was showing lean, and when I pulled the plugs they were white. I adjusted the numbers up by .5 then it was showing rich. I moved them back down to where I had them and it was still rich. This is why I am going to try new O2's.

My cam is the Comp 266, which is basically a stock replacement. I will have the get the harness to do a scan. That is next on my list.

If this ends up not working. My back up plan is to install the FMU that came in the kit with the Procharger.


Comp XFR 266? That's a long way from stock and even more aggressive than my cam, you'll definitely be gettng cam reversion (causes splits). In my opinion you'll be chasing your tail at idle with only the wideband. Suggest getting the ALDL cable (Moates does an excellent cable that converts to USB) and datamaster for 20 free scans. Drive the car around a bit, find out what it's doing above idle.

I'm not sure the FMU will help (unless it allows you to adjust base fuel pressure with an adjustment screw) - usually used only to help boost FP when the engine is in boost.

Posted on: 2012/7/11 18:43
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Re: tuning and MAP questions
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Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
I bought the Procharger and unit off of ebay, it had the piggyback and software with it. This was a never installed unit that had been purchased in '06. However the Split Second p/n is FTC1-075. Which I don't think is available anymore due to the lack of sales. It is a fuel and spark management system. It has a vacuum hose that runs to the box, then sends the voltage to the factory ECU for the MAP reading. You set the output voltage by changing the value in the table to match the factory MAP at atmospheric pressure. By doing this it will compensate for having a forced induction engine. After that you have a table that you adjust the fuel levels with. According to them it is to trick the factory ECU to thinking it is at a different part of the set table. Then you are to readjust the fuel at that certain MAP point to even it out. Here is a link.

http://www.splitsec.com/technotes/Fue ... sing_2-bar_Map_Sensor.pdf

It is to add or remove fuel when and where it is needed. Then this table is an "overlay" of the factory table. My confusion is when I called Split Second they say to tune without the O2's. When I first start my car the AFR is reading high 13's to 14's. Then it drops to 10, which I think is when it goes to closed loop.

Yes, the signal wire from the MAP sensor is cut. The new signal is sent to the factory ECU from the piggyback. At 0 psi, I have them matched at 4.7v. When at idle (although not connected) the factory MAP has an output of 1.9v, and the piggyback has a 1.2v. This makes the factory ECU think it is running at a lower rpm, so then you can use the fuel table to adjust to the correct level.


OK - I read through the tech notes and I think I understand what it's trying to do. Basically without going into the stock ECU it tricks the ECU into a different part of the VE tables based on a modified MAP signal, and you can modify that signal using the Split Second tables.

From memory the 1-Bar and 2-Bar MAP sensors have some funky overlap at low voltage which can make idle and low speed tuning very hard. However, you have the overlay table that should help out.

I guess the piggyback expects that somewhere in your stock ECU table is an entry that will deliver the correct fueling for any given 2-Bar MAP signal and bigger injector combination.

You are going very rich (10:1) when in closed loop - are you seeing rich on both O2's (i.e. pegged above 900mv) in a scan? Or are you just watching a wideband sensor? Do you have an aggressive cam? I ask because I have a fairly aggressive cam and I get horrible split BLM's on my 92 that messes with the readings at idle, and you could chase your tail on a 'false rich' reading.

I havent tried disconnecting the O2's to force open loop (I do it in the ECM) but in general you want to run in closed loop for a while during datalogging because it can give you some very good initial idea how the engine is running (BTW - low MAP voltage means the ECU is looking up a lower KPa reading, not lower RPM).

I'm not sure if I am helping much because this approach is new to me too - however I do recommend that you capture some scans so you can see where the ECU thinks it's running rich or lean (you'll need it to be in closed loop for this).

If you have some datamaster scans I'd be happy to take a look.

Cheers

Posted on: 2012/7/11 16:39
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Re: tuning and MAP questions
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Quote:

djxib wrote:
(Some good write-ups / sticky on this topic in the tuning section of thirdgen.org).



Scrub that - I meant CamaroZ28.com. Apologies

Posted on: 2012/7/11 0:29
_________________
Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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