crash wrote:
looks sweet don. what brand opti do you have in it and what brand dist cap is that.
rich

SpectatorRacing wrote:
Who's oil pan did you use? I'm so tired of my Canton leaking I'd like an alternative.

Also, what headers did you go with? Forgive me if it's in the other thread...

biggrizzly wrote:
I forgot to order header gaskets! damn. I have a set of Mr.Gasket Copper header gaskets. Will they work?

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
I forgot to order header gaskets! damn. I have a set of Mr.Gasket Copper header gaskets. Will they work?

I used Percy's and have zero complaints, will use them again in the future.

TommyT-Bone wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
I forgot to order header gaskets! damn. I have a set of Mr.Gasket Copper header gaskets. Will they work?

I used Percy's and have zero complaints, will use them again in the future.

What about Mr Gasket?

biggrizzly wrote:
Well, if you have been following... the engine is in the car bolted to the cross frames. I just removed the transmission lines because the Champ Road Racing pan is blocking the fctory routing of the lines. I plan to replace them with braided stainless steel transmission lines and AN fittings. I may totally relocate the entire transmission cooling to the rear of the car, but I'm still weighing the pros and cons of this. the transmission is still sitting on its jack under the car waiting to get raised into position but I'm waiting for motivation to get that one accomplished. I have lots of little jobs that need attention prior to finishing too... I could drag this out for months but really need to get moving. Thanks for the prod.

biggrizzly wrote:
Pete,

I knew you were going to say this... as you are the ObiWon of transmissions. Well... let's see, I trashed the lines trying to get them out. Instead of forward thinking, and removing them before the engine went in... they got trapped and bent under the motor during engine installation. (I didn't notice this until the engine was in. Crazy I know. When removing them, I tried the gentle approach but it finally got pretty ugly by the time they were out.

I guess I will need to get some new lines and do as you recommend. Although, the local Speed Unlimited sells a nice Teflon lined kit with fittings and enough line to do the job for about $150. It just seemed a lot easier to route the lines and tie them off with the metal wire ties or rubber insulated clamps.

What kind of tool is required to flare the ends. I'll need to pick a bender and flare tool up.

Thanks for the comments. I want to treat your baby good. Its so funny, but everyone that has come over to help me out has commented on how nice the paint job is on the transmission!!! LOL

biggrizzly wrote:
Pete,
I'm still trying to find out the cons to using the $125 braided line kit other than difficult to cut. I have a cutter and cut-off discs and can buy any special tool required.

I just hate the thought of bending new tubing by trial and error. The old tubing is twisted and bent beyond use for a pattern and the flexible tubing seems like an attractive and easy alternative. Additionally, I have searched online for places to buy pre-bent tubing for our cars and I have not had any luck after a good long search.

PeteK wrote:
Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
Pete,
I'm still trying to find out the cons to using the $125 braided line kit other than difficult to cut. I have a cutter and cut-off discs and can buy any special tool required.

I just hate the thought of bending new tubing by trial and error. The old tubing is twisted and bent beyond use for a pattern and the flexible tubing seems like an attractive and easy alternative. Additionally, I have searched online for places to buy pre-bent tubing for our cars and I have not had any luck after a good long search.

Don,
Braided works, I was primarily trying to talk you out of relocating stuff to the back.
When I make a steel line, I use a coathanger for the template, then bend the new steel line off it.
If you do choose to use braided lines, be very careful when you install the adapters into the case. Thread sealant can cause the case to split.

Matatk wrote:
Don -

Bending the tube is pretty simple with a handheld tubing bender ($15). I did a couple on my lines and I used a compression fitting with a ferrule for the lines.

Pete - I'm interested in what type of connection you are recommending with the double flare? I have the tool and might consider that in the future if it's a better route. I still want to install a trans cooler.

Matthew