All Posts (CFI-EFI)
Re: Bad starter? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
 
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
 |
Quote:
Holy smokes! My suggestion was a solenoid rebuild, but for free. If you wanted to go all out, a solenoid rebuild kit is $5.00 or $6.00. A new solenoid can't be $25.00. Even a starter with solenoid should be about half that. OUCH! RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/4 21:53
|
|
 Transfer
|
 
|
|
Re: Bad starter? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
I agree with Durango_Boy on cleaning all 4 ends of the battery cables. If that doesn't solve the problem, you may be able to avoid buying a starter by pulling the solenoid apart and cleaning up the contacts. If you reverse or turn the large washer/contact around that gives you all new contact surfaces. Then file the bolt head contacts and you will have a fresh solenoid.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/2 14:27
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: C4 gets dissed on drag |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
If you guys think C4s don't get any respect, try owning the first year, with a Crossfire engine, no less.  RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/1 14:54
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Drop the entire rear end? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
I sure DID forget the sway bar in my list. I was afraid I'd miss something. That is a good tip about the dog bone brackets and CentralCoaster's about the bracket nuts, too. As you may be able to tell, I've never done this. I DO have a D44 to install one of these first nice days. It is hard to get too motivated when there is nothing wrong with the present D36. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/1 0:20
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Drop the entire rear end? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
Great picture. I think you misunderstood. He is asking about dropping the whole rear suspension all at once. As you said, remove the exhaust, but leave the rest of the items named intact. Unbolt the forward dog bone mounting brackets, the shocks, either the upper or lower mounts, brake lines, emergency brake cables, the 4 pinion yoke u joint strap bolts, the 2 rear "C" bolts, the 2 batwing bolts and lower away. I have seen pictures of many such assemblies in for sale ads, so it must not be too impractical. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/31 14:35
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: About to put in some bright headlights! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
If you are going to spend the money for the good stuff, check out Daniel Stern and his various offerings. His report on the Silver Stars revealed a poorly designed reflector. I don't recall any comments on bulb life or shock resistance.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/30 15:29
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: About to put in some bright headlights! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/29 23:12
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Up and running....AGAIN! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Yes. Save your money on the rocker arms.
I am not an A/F ratio expert. From my limited experience with out nitrous, high 12s has worked well at WOT. You can experiment with the learner ratios and check the plugs after some WOT passes. There is an old adage "lean is mean". I would keep a close eye on thing when you are running on the edge. The closer to 14.7:1 you can get at idle and steady state cruise, the better emissions and economy. I don't particularly care for the juice and therefore know nothing about tuning with it. All I know is that it doesn't take much of a miscalculation to get expensive...FAST. But I'll bet you knew that. Have fun, and... RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/29 22:57
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Now taking orders on the renegade crossfire intake! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
I didn't pay for my first bite of pizza. I was at a party where it was served. When I bought one, I has a pretty good idea what to expect. Also, I know what it was made of, I could smell it and see how others were enjoying theirs. Also I didn't call Domino's and have to wait 120 days or more for delivery. Pizza, the "Same thing as a renegade."??? I'll have mine with anchovies. Quote:
Many, especially those that are capable of understanding the internal combustion engine and turning a wrench already have improved their Crossfire powered cars. It is the unimaginative sheep that have to stand on the side lines waiting for a flock to follow that you seem tp be addressing. Quote:
Since it is so cheap, order one for me too. When (if) I get it, I will give you an honest assessment of it. Quote:
What I am laughing at is someone that has gone absolutely gaga over the pre-production hype of something that is very unlikely to be any better than what I already have. Something, by the way, that I produced, myself, at home for little or no cost. I haven't tried to "screw with someones business". The company producing the Renegade manifold, in the past, made a claim for a product that was physically impossible for anything or product to do. Therefore, I say look closely. Trust, if you must, but verify. I never called those people liars (as you have me) nor have I said they only produce junk. I said, and I repeat for the overly dense, that they have made false claims about a product in the past. That doesn't mean the Renegade is no good, it means as I've cautioned, that one should approach it with both eyes wide open. If you prefer not to be alerted and dive in blind, be my guest. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/29 17:27
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Now taking orders on the renegade crossfire intake! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
 RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/29 16:42
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: About to put in some bright headlights! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Yes! And if you don't want to throw your money away it takes big bucks, too.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/29 0:44
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Up and running....AGAIN! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
I wasn't suggesting you get rid of the Rhodes lifters. I was just trying to explain that the noise wasn't the rocker arms. The other thread I was referring to is titled "Rocker help" by Travis93. The reason you don't have the loud tapping noise you thought you might, is because you don't actually have any lash. Play and or excessive lash is what makes the tick, tick or clack, clack. I think if you like how it runs and can live with the noise, you should leave it alone. I just suggested that you don't waste money on rocker arms and then find out that they won't make it any quieter. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/29 0:39
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Now taking orders on the renegade crossfire intake! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
That is unadulterated clap trap. It is wishful thinking(?), a day dream. There has been absolute;y nothing presented to justify such wild speculation. You HOPE it might live you to the fictional profile presented above. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/29 0:22
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: rainy day project |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
If you like that, you're going to LOVE this:
  RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/29 0:11
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Up and running....AGAIN! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Your description of the adjustment method (which I'd forgot) does NOT specify lash in the valve train. I couldn't imagine recommended lash with a hydraulic lifter. As stated in another thread here, recently, it is not possible to differentiate or attribute noise in the valve train to any given component. Any noise or play any where pretty much makes the same noise. In the other thread the OP was prepared to buy new rocker arms to replace the noisy rockers. Some types of rockers can inherently be noisier than others, but I am positive you are talking about more noise here, that just roller rockers vs fulcrum ball rockers. The bottom line is that Rhodes lifters are noisy. If you want to use Rhodes lifters, the noise is part of the deal.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/28 16:56
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Now taking orders on the renegade crossfire intake! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
There's been nothing "negative" said about this product. There HAS, however been much reasonable "critique" about your own claims. Such as your assertion: "Just go to "dynamic crossfire solutions" and place your order. 33 rear wheel HP gain with just the intake manifold and all your stock components bolt right up to it." I mean, really. Are you really insulted by these most reasonable questions? That defensiveness you display only suggests to the reader that you're selling snake oil. Are you proclaiming: "Trust my personal word for it that this product really DOES produce 33 HP for ONLY $450.00." ??? We here at GURU don't opperate that way. We require imperical truth. Like an independant dyno test or two. Any reasonable person would accept your claims because they may IN FACT be provable. But reasonable people require FACTS to base their belief ON. Get it? Otherwise we'd all own those air foils and BELIEVE we have 610+ rwhp. :wizard: There was a typo in Calm's post that I thought detracted from an otherwise well thought out, appropriate, response. I hope this correction helps make his point is more clear. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/28 16:40
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Up and running....AGAIN! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
It has been a very long time since I installed a set of Rhodes lifters. I don't recall adjusting lash (play) when installing them. I thought the Rhodes got set with preload just like any other hydraulic lifter. They are noisy as heck until the engine revs and the lifters pump up. Regardless, I think almost all of your valve train noise is due to the Rhodes lifters, and that a change in rocker arms will be a wasted effort. It sounds like it runs like a raped ape. Congrats. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/28 16:18
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Rocker help |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
First of all, it is great that you got the job done satisfactorily. The advice you followed from Midnight85 was a good choice. I'm appreciate the follow up report and I'm glad your problem is solved.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/28 16:04
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: 1987 C-4 Need to Replace Heater Core |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
I pretty much followed the FSM when I did mine. I didn't see where it said to remove the bread box, bread loaf, or what ever, and I didn't. I don't see how that would have helped much. The removal of the dash pad (as instructed) made access easier and let light in. I think the main difference in "The Fast Guy" method is the removal of the seat. I didn't, but I can see where that could make access easier. It was a pain, but hopefully it is done for the next 20 years. If I have to do it again, then, I will consider the "Jeb Barnett" method. Sawzall.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/27 17:37
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Rocker help |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
When you come across that guy described above, by all means, as advised, question his response. Question ALL responses. Quote:
You can't argue what a person likes. The OP asked if it was necessary for the engine to be hot. The quick answer is , "No". I'm not saying there is anything wrong with setting the preload of hydraulic lifters on a hot, running engine. All I'm saying is that isn't the only way. Many, many, engines get assembled, many, many cams get installed, with the preload set while the engine is dead cold and never started. It doesn't help anyone for a "Mr. owned a shop for 10+ years" to be taking pot shots and placing labels on people they know nothing about. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/27 15:49
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: About to put in some bright headlights! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
According to the research I did, you don't have that problem with the Cibie reflectors. Quote:
That is a great schematic for the head light relays. There is a chart on Daniel Stern's site showing the reduction in light output from various light sources based on the voltage drop that can exist in stock wiring harnesses. He recommends adding relays even to stock head lights. However, as I was reminded by an authority on illumination, it takes a significant difference in the amount of light to be noticeable in practical use. Food for thought, information, in order to make an informed decision. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/27 15:09
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: About to put in some bright headlights! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
I did some extensive research on this subject not long ago. I found reports that the Hella 6054 housings have reflectors that make the spread between the high beam and the low beam too great for a car with low head lights like the Corvette. It was reported that when the low beams were aimed properly that the high beams were up off the road into the trees. Consequently, if the high beams were optimized, the low beams hit the road too close to the car and were unsatisfactory. There is a well recognized authority and seller of after market lights, Danial Stern. Go to his site and check out what he has to say before you make a $200.+ mistake. He was willing to answer questions even though I didn't buy from him. BTW, the only reason I didn't buy was because I decided to take a less expensive route. If I had spent the money, it would have been with him. If you decide not to go whole hog, ask before you buy the replacement "SilverStar" sealed beams by Sylvania.
Durango Boy, There are no relays for the head light illumination on a C4. The relays are only for the motors that flip up the lights. Adding relays are a good idea with any lighting up grade. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/27 0:23
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Rocker help |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
I'm betting that you will. You are soooo close.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/26 23:33
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Rocker help |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
NO! I do not agree that the engine should be hot. It should be warm enough to get it off of cold idle to help from tossing oil all over the place, but for the accuracy of the adjustment, the engine temp is inconsequential. Mechanical cam valve lash adjustments change the amount of play (lash) in the valve train. With a mechanical cam the parts expand with heat and the valve lash changes with different temps. The expansion of the valve train parts is the reason for mechanical lifters to have lash. Most mechanical cams are spec'ed with the hot lash. With a hydraulic cam, all you are setting is the amount of preload on the plunger inside of the lifter. Whether 1/4 turn, a half turn, 3/4, or even a full turn makes no difference on how the engine will run. If it is quieter at 1 turn (for some unknown reason) than at 3/4, leave it there. Because with a hydraulic cam all you are setting is preload, the hydraulic lifter automatically, constantly, adjusts the lash to zero, the temp isn't an issue. I hope that helps. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/26 21:57
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Porting the stock crossfire intake manifold! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/26 21:22
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: bad halfshaft or not? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/26 21:13
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Porting the stock crossfire intake manifold! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
You forgot the 40 hp and the 16 & 22 ft.lbs. of torque. This guy doesn't know if he is afoot or on horseback. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/26 18:08
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Now taking orders on the renegade crossfire intake! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
Inside of my head? What is it you believe I've said that isn't fact? The seller of the intake has made misrepresentations in the past, but it has been suggested that this not be addressed here, fine. If you will reread my post (that YOU quoted) I said "I wouldn't come out and say this manifold isn't worth it,". How can I have anything against a manifold that isn't readily available to the general public and for independent testing. The only information I've seen on this manifold is your repeated insistence that I get one, and your hype from what would appear to be their biggest stock holder and highest paid commissioned salesman. I admit I don't know anything about this manifold, and I have made no comments on it's merits. I have never passed judgment nor commented on it one way or another. Quote:
Wake up! RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/26 18:03
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Rocker help |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
I have never heard of a noisy rocker being a rocker problem. It is always a loose valve adjustment. If the noise really is coming from a worn or defective rocker arm, don't run that engine any more than necessary. If the rocker arm is so bad that it makes that much noise I would be afraid it is ready to break or come apart sending shrapnel and small parts through out your engine.
Adjusting the preload of the lifters with the engine running provides the most dramatic indication of zero lash. This can be convenient when you are setting the preload to near zero for minimum pump up. Near zero preload is NOT a good idea for a DD. The fact that yours makes noise indicate that you didn't miss zero lash and tighten them too much. At this point, I think I would simply tighten the noisy lifers with the engine running to assure you had found and corrected the problem. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/26 15:57
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: 93 Window R&R |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
That definitely sounds like a plan. I actually never marked the position of the glass, because the nuts with the large captivated washers left a pretty good marks on the regulator. But certainly, there is nothing wrong with marking it. Have fun.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/26 15:35
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Rear end walks slightly under accelleration? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
My parts book refers to the link between the center of the batwing to the outer rear connection on the knuckle as both a toe rod, and a tie rod, depending on what parts group you are looking in. As the power is applied, the right rear wheel pulls forward steering the front of the wheel inward, steering it to the left, it which causes the car to steer right. When the power is released, the drag of the tire on the pavement steers the car in the opposite direction. I cannot answer why it doesn't cause both rear wheels to steer inward equally, only causing a change in toe in but not steering the car. I experienced rear steer and repairing the play in the socket of the center link of the rear tie/toe rod solved the problem. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/25 15:55
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Now taking orders on the renegade crossfire intake! |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
FINALLY!!! It has been said. According to the quote, the Renegade manifold will slow my car down. This particular revelation comes from someone who is enthralled with, but has no knowledge of this manifold other than the hype of the producers. Producers, by the way, that have been known to make false, impossible, claims for items they advertised. I wouldn't come out and say this manifold isn't worth it, but if past actions of the sellers aren't to be ignored, it makes sense to look closely, before wasting your money. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/25 15:19
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Electrical peeps....step in |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
The shift light isn't supposed to come on when IT shifts. It is supposed to come on to tell YOU when to shift. With the shift light, the A/F gauge, and the fuel pressure gauge, it sounds as though you might want to consider hiring out your electrical work. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/22 15:54
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Rear end walks slightly under accelleration? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
If you are getting rear wheel steer as I mentioned. It could be outer rear tie rod ends too. It's just that the inner link is a little less obvious. Regardless of the cause, I hope you get it located without too much trouble.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/22 15:48
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Summit Aluminum Heads |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Summit's house brand parts are perfectly good. I don't have any experience with those heads, specifically, but I sure wouldn't be afraid of them. What are you expecting for $879.95 that you are afraid your won't get for $450.00?
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/22 15:40
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Rear end walks slightly under accelleration? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
I had a problem I referred to as rear wheel steer. If I got on the gas it steered to the right. When I backed off it steered to the left. In my case the problem turned out to be a worn out inner tie rod end. Actually it is the link that holds the inner end of both rear tie rods. It bolts to the batwing. The link was still pretty stiff which made it hard to detect with the rear in the air, but once enough force was applied the movement was really evident. I hope that helps.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/21 16:41
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: torque converter replacement |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
That is good advice and a great offer from dan0617. Only the 1984, and I'm not sure all of them had the 27 spline input shaft. For sure 1985 and up converters are 30 spline and interchangeable at least up up the 4L60E trans. Stall speeds in the 2400 rpm to 3000 rpm range aren't too bad on the street.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/18 14:37
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Whine in my 3:73 Diff |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
Helpful, as usual. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/18 14:28
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Windage tray vs oil consumption |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
A windage tray could be an advantage. Probably not, but it won't hurt and since you are in there anyhow... Remember that your 383 has a 1/4" longer stroke than the 350 did, bringing the crank and rods 1/8" deeper into the pan. That increases the possibility of whipping up the oil and may cause interference with a windage tray.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/15 21:40
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: 84 Headlights |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/15 16:15
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: [Pic] Rear Coilovers, Dana 44 help. |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
Quote:
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/14 0:46
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Troubleshooting-Help Needed!---UPDATE |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
Whatever is causing the valve tapping, isn't likely making the engine stall. For piece of mind, however, check your dipstick to be sure it has oil, and only oil. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/14 0:30
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: [Pic] Rear Coilovers, Dana 44 help. |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
The simplest way to a D44 conversion is, as you said, to use the D44 diff and batwing. The other parts, the half shafts, camber rods, and tie rods, either from the picture or what is already on the car should work equally well. I "ass-u-me" you have the "C" beam and drive shaft under control. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/13 15:22
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: [Pic] Rear Coilovers, Dana 44 help. |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
I certainly don't have all the answers but I have some thoughts that may get you started. The '88 up suspensions are wider. You can try your wheels on the suspension to check to see if the tires rub on the fenders. Different wheels may be the most expedient solution if there is interference. Otherwise you should be able to install your old knuckles and spindles on the new suspension. That would take care of the e brake hook up and the ABS sensors. If you keep the late knuckles, I suspect the new Abs sensors will work with your ABS. The later e brake is incorporated into the brake caliper, rather than being a separate drum brake behind and inside of the disc. You would have to go to the later calipers and probably e brake cable to connect the park brake. Just a little insight.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/12 23:39
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Courteous responses |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
In my case it does. Some have more posts and higher rankings, but few are older or have been here longer. Welcome, Veted. If you have been wanting a Corvette since 1953 you must rank up here with the older crowd, like I do. What part of the world are you from? RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/12 18:49
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: L98 upgrade |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
I agree with the cam recommendations. Plus you will get more from headers in the rpm range you will be using with 1 5/8" primary tube headers rather than the 1 3/4" you mentioned.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/12 15:01
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: anti-squat with an IRS |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
I never addressed the rear anti squat in anything other than the 1984, for which I have the specs. The track of the suspension was widened in 1988. The knuckle and the spindle were the principle components that implemented the change. If the dog bone bracket were moved to align with the new knuckle position, the anti squat wouldn't have to change. However, I am not discussing the validity of Mike Antionick's information. Here is my source of 1984 Corvette specs:  Here is the page showing the anti squat:  RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/12 14:46
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: anti-squat with an IRS |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
I'm not familiar with him. My spec book is labeled for 1984. It doesn't pretend to cover any other year. Possibly he has quoted (and maybe misquoted) my source. It is the MVMA spec sheet as supplied by Chevrolet. I have scanned the cover and the page showing the "anti squat" specs, but I am having problems up loading it to my photo host. It keeps getting interrupted. I'll try again later. I have something else I have to do now.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/11 21:49
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: anti-squat with an IRS |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
Quote:
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/11 17:47
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Replacing valve springs while replacing seals.. |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
|
There is no performance gain in valve springs. With the stock cam, stock springs are plenty adequate. If you plan to be revving it to red line often, the old Z28 valve springs, like the Sealed Power VS739 are a good choice. It would be a waste of money to convert springs, retainers, and maybe keepers to the "flavor of the month", just so you can say you have them.
I like to use the SS72527 intake seals on both the intake and exhaust valves. Remember that if the valve guides are badly worn, the valves may be able to move around enough to prevent the seal from maintaining a good seal with the valve. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/3/11 14:47
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
