While you have everything apart, make sure that you have enough clearance between the top of the installed seal and the bottom of the retainer!

How good is your tune actually. I had big problems when I
first started my new engine, with a rather big cam.
I had way too much fuel at idle and it also smoked but
more blueish. Engine was running good, throttle response was
good, but too much fuel was washing cylinder walls and
burning oil.

As soon as I sorted that out, all smoking has gone.

But that still wouldn't explain smoking from pcv.

I would also suspect leak on intake manifold gaskets.

EDIT: what's the mileage on your motor?
Did it smoke on pcv before cam job? Maybe it did but
you haven't noticed.

In that case you probably have only seals or intake gasket
problem.

But if there's also smoke from pcv hose on the valve cover, like you stated in your first post, than it's not only the seals problem!

OK, keep us posted!

BTW, I've bought my C5 calipers from Hawaii.
And I live only 8000 miles away!

In that case, going with the "AC" way seems like
a better (more simple) way to go.

Do you allready have WBO2 and if you do, which one?
Please post some results when you get everything running!

There is also one downside by doing it via AC.
You won't be able to see the result in the graph
with rpm, MAP or other signal that you'll like.
The wbo2 will be only visible in separate window,
since it's a custom data.

I'm not 100% sure about this, but when I was playing with it,
it worked like that.

Mseven can give you more infos on doing this a different way.
I'm also about to do this, but I'm only working on the car
on my spare time, so it may take a while.

There is a hacked .bin file for '730 ECM that will make
it possible to connect WBO2 to MAP2 input (not used on
stock ECM) and log WBO2 signal in IAC min. field in
Datamaster if I'm correct.

What ECM are you running?

I also think this is a great idea.
If I had a possibility to make that choice when i was
buying converter, I would've gone with it.

This won't be interesting for people that are looking
for cheap or stock replacement converters. But I believe
that when buying high performance converter in $500+ range,
$100 won't make that much difference.
And possibility to rebulid your own TC, or to change
stall speed is much more worth. At least in my opinion.

Great looking wheels!

Great idea and a great job you did!!!

Hey!

I know that coil on plug is the best way to go, but
it's too much $$$ for my needs right now.
I think that I'll go with MSD 6al or similar setup.
Thanks!

I'm thinking about upgrading my stock HEI.
I'm revving the new engine to 6500-6700 rpm and
I'm not sure how efficient stock HEI is at that rpsms.

What is your opinion on the subject?
Should I upgrade or not?
If yes, which system would you recommend?

Mick have also helped me a lot and he sure can
count on a beer from me.
Only problem is that I live "a little bit" too far!

Thanks!

Thanks!

What are differences between auto and manual ECM?
Can auto ECM work with manual trans?
Or better to ask can it work good? Because ECM gets the
signal from the shifter switch that tells if trans is in
park or drive.

That sounds good! If it won't be a hassle for you, it's allways good to know this infos! I'm buying parts from USA a few times a year and I have a few friends here who also drive US cars. It's not a problem for small packages, but big and heavy packages are problem because USPS won't send them.

It looks like this deal with a friend of a friend will go
through, so he'll be sending me the trans.
I'll have to wait for a few months but I'm in no hurry and
transport will be almost for free.

Just to let you know, so that you don't waste your time.
But thank you very much for your help anyway!

Thanks!

Thank you very much for your help.
I'm in no hurry.

I've also contacted a friend of a friend who lives in
Sacramento. He told me that he'll be sending a car to
Croatia soon and that maybe he'll be able to send my parts
along with it.

The airport near me is Pleso, Zagreb
http://www.zagreb-airport.hr/en/

Actually, airport is 10 miles away from me.
Parts are in Vista, CA.

Hi guys, thanks for your inputs.
My parts are in California.

Hi Guys!

Does anybody here parhaps work in some international
shipping company?

I have a bit of the problem! I would like to buy ZF-6
transmission with all the parts needed for auto - manual
conversion. I have found a few deals, but shipping is allways
the problem. Nobody offers overseas shipping.

I've tried to contact DHL, Fedex and similar, but their
prices are crazy. Only hipping would cost transmission X 2.

There are some solutions to send the parts in cargo
container, but I just don't know how to organize this
from here.

So if anybody have any experience or idea how I could
organize this, please let me know.

Thanks!

Thanks for your input Will!

I'd like to hear your opinions on what you think are best rods/mains/cam bearings!?

Engine will be all forged 383, solid roller, ~7300 rpm redline, used on street (not very often) and for road racing.

Looks and sounds great Pete!

Sounds like it's running strong even without the right tune.

Hi guys!

I'm having some bogging/choking/hesitating problems when I try to start the car a bit harder or WOT from dead stop. I've tried to hold the brake, get the rpms to 2k or a bit more, but still the same. It doesn't happen only if I accelerate with very light throttle.
If I roll the car to 10mph or so and hit the throttle, this doesn't happen and response is instant.

You probably know that I've done a lot of mods and I'm almost sure that this is just a tune issue, but I'd like to hear what you think could be causing this!? Too much/less fuel, wrong timing?

Link to my build

Impressive numbers!

Quote:

NO, I still have completely stock HEI system. I plan to
upgrade, but not just yet.

I'll set it to 6800. I plan to rev it to 6500-6700 max. but
just for insurance. So 50-75 rpms difference should work!

Thanks guys!

Does anybody here use fuel cut-off rev limiter?
Stock setting is something like 10000 rpms.

I was wondering if anybody uses it and what difference
in rpms do you use for fuel cut-off enable/disable?!

Thanks Mick!

I know that this one is not topic related, but I'm just
so happy that it's on the road again, I just have to
post it:

Thanks Will!

That is one very healthy cam! How high do you plan to
rev this engine?

I love it! Sounds really powerfull.
What are your cam specs if it's not a secret?

I just love SBC pics!

Thanks guys! I've ordered adjustable guideplates.
I have a big cam and springs and plan to rev it to 6500,
so it's better to be sure!


CC: the guideplates on pics are Competiton Cams product.

Sure, here is the pic. As for rockers beeing too forward,
you're right. I have to order new pushrods.

I'll try to explain this as good as I can.
I've noticed that some of the rockers aren't sitting
on the center of the valve tip. If you take a look
at the pic below, you'll see that the RR on the right
isn't centered on the valve tip. It's positioned more
in the right direction (arrow) and roller tip is not
pushing on the whole valve tip but only on the right side
of the tip.

But I don't think that there's much that I can do.
I thought of grinding the holes on the guideplates to
make them adjustable a little bit. But if I do that, than
the other rocker on the same guideplate won't be centered.

Rockers are CompCams Pro Magnums, non self-aligning.
Any opinions?

.............

update



Finally I have some good news. I've found a small crack
on PCV hose and installed a new O2. Along with a new
tune from Mick, it gave some really good results.
I'd really like to thank Mick (mseven) for all of his help.

Idle is much smoother and there is no more smoking.
There is still some fuel smell but I believe it's mostly
because of the cam size.

I've ordered eprom emulator from Craig Moates and I'll
try to play with the tune myself a little bit with
real-time tuning. I believe that it should make things much
easier.

But even without that, I'm really happy with how engine runs
now. I've driven the car for a little bit and it's much
better than I expected. It's really drivable even in the low
rpms. But when it gets past 3k rpm, it really starts to feel
powerfull. Throttle response is absolutely great.
I still need to try out the WOT driving but I'll do that
after a couple hundred miles, after some break-in driving.

Also, I did a new exhaust a few weeks ago, so here are a few
pics of it:

Quote:

Thanks!

Thank you all guys!

What CID engine do you have? Stroker?
That cam is way bigger than mine and I'm getting comments that my cam is too big.

Please let me know if my math is correct!

Let's take Weavsvets cam for example.
He's making 12" (it's inHg, right?) at idle.
If we convert that to kPa, that makes ~40 kPa.
So if we take 40kPa off of ~101kPa(atmospheric pressure),
does it mean that his MAP reading at idle should be
arround 61kPa?

Also, does compression have effect on vacuum?

Sounds good!

Good luck! I've also had some dust in fluid and on the
bottom of the pan everytime when I took pan off.
Even after only a few hundred miles.
And the trans is still working two years after rebuild
(knock on wood).

Quote:

Thanks! What is your idle set at?

I'm just curious, for comparison purpose. I'm still
having idle issues and I'm not sure if vacuum is as
should be, or is too low.

MAP readings (Datamaster or some other logger) at idle
(it doesn't have to be vacuum gauge) is what I'm interested in.

I'd like to see or hear how much vacuum are your engines with
bigger than stock cams making at idle?!

Thanks guys!

I really hope that I'll have issues sorted out soon
because I'm really anxious to see/feel how will the car run.

Thanks!

Mick (mseven) and I are trying to work it out. I had a bad
O2 sensor, so we didn't do much last few days, but my new O2
should be here any day now. I hope that we'll work it out soon.
I'll post the results anyway.