should of put a torch to it the second it started singing.
at least that worked on the height adjusters.

managed to snap it off with just a little piece showing.

already tried a torch and some vice grips

anyone know a good way of getting it out w/o screwing up the welded nut on the frame?


and things were going so good too..

I guess you are referring to the bolts that hold the shock mount into the frame?

Well... I would soak it with PB blaster.

I would guess you'd either have to weld a nut onto the stub or use an E-Z-Out. Sounds like fun

Yes,the ones into the frame, late c4

I picked up an easy out set today

Hopefully that and a torch will get the job done

Looks like I'll have to get a tap set as well

There is another option... it's this thing where a guy with a plasma cutter eats the bolt out, leaving the nut behind.

very common in boating and very effective in general.

Brian

Did you get that sucker out yet?

I've had decent luck with reverse rotation drills...I like the fact that I'm not tightening the bolt during my efforts to remove it.


MIke

my computer to a dump

so I've been spend all my time rebuilding it

bummer.

well tried out the bolt extractor

it actually snapped off inside the bolt


fortunately I managed to get it out

now I'm left with a pilot hole

I'm thinking of drilling it out with progressively larger bits, then taking a cold chisel to it

thoughts??

If you can drill it more, you can use a larger extractor. I don't think it'd be possible to get whats left of it out any other way. A chisel will just jam all the metal further into the hole.

Use a left handed drill bit. First spray it with some BP blaster, then take a punch and whack it real good just to try to loosen the threads up.

Eveny once in a while I would get something at the shop that had a broken bolt in it that just wouldn't come out with an easy out or left handed drill. The way I would fix them is to progressivly drill the pilot hole in the broken bolt bigger and bigger until I was at the "Tap Size" (drill bit). If you dion't have a drill/tap size chart, the threads will just about (or barley) show.

Then I would start the tap and re-cut the threads. What was left of the bolt would get cut out with the tap as long as your centered pretty close on the broken bolt (Easy to do on a vertical mill. NOT so easy laying on your back under a rear fender...).

If your off of center too far to fix it that way just tap it to the next size bolt or heli-coil it if it's important the bolt be the same size.
Will

I think the next size up is too big

I can try it though

Quote:

Had the same problem - by the time I got to a drill bit that was 3/4 the diameter of the bolt the remainder came out without having to use a chisel.
Took a tap to clean the threads.

I've done that but it looks like you're a bit off center with the pilot hole. Or perhaps the picture is deceiving. The larger drill bits will follow what's there and you run the risk of drilling into the car itself.

Any chance you can weld it?

Matthew

and another idea if it all goes to hell: Weld Nuts

http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=71tcx4

Just drill out the original bolt/nut, insert this into the hole and weld it in place.

Quote:

or have trouble getting the drill in there.

it's definitely off a little off center

BTW it's either a welded on or captured nut inside the frame

Picked up a metric tap set when I bought the longer snake today for my sink drain issues.

EDIT
Those bolts are 8x1.25 BTW not 1.0 or 1.5

put in correct size, oops

sales guy said one thing, but sold me the right one.

either that or my morning coffee ran out

After going through a few bits, I got the bolt through drilled today
I'm not into the nut as of yet
I need to disconnect the abs connectors to get the drill at a better angle.
I got it hollowed out pretty good, so I tried collapsing it with a chisel.
didn't work, but I got all the frays off, so it's better set for taping

tried getting a tap extension today

I can't get the t-handle in there

all the ones I found were for a 7mm or smaller tap

a square drive would work

a friend lent me a tap handle with a sliding handle

it's working

taking it easy so I don't break the tap

got it about 1/2 done

I'll finish it tomorrow.

some of the bolt's still in there.

I'm hoping at this stage that it's friction welded in.

finished it up today

put a bolt in there just to make sure

of course the real test will be when I torque everything down.

Glad to hear you got it done, or at least all of the hard part.

Did you end up tapping it oversized or could you salvage the original threads?

Matthew

Congrats, however ,like Matak I'm interested in if you were able to save the threads, used a helicoil, nutsert, or larger bolt....

tapped to the original size

but it's offset a little

there's some of the original bolt still in there
what's left if friction welded it.

I'll see if it will hold
if not, I'll oversize it, and and either put an oversized bolt or helicoil in it.

So is the rubber gonna hit the road for Memorial Day weekend?

Quote:

What he said!

Are you on the ROAD YET????

boy n ol trick ive used many times is wud i call pencil sharpin a hard bolt n weld her to the stub...the heat along wid the new head cranks em right out..ifn nawt then i do the lil biggar till tell she pops er i have to tap new ...great ya got her out..ive got a spendee set of the new reversd bit n taps,,but ain tried em yet

still working on clearance issues

One thing I learned on a very difficult bolt was using a left hand drill. After nothing succeeded, I welded a rod with a nut and just unscrewed it.