Yup, it's old Eagle again with his hand out for more info again! Anyhow I plan on doing pads and rotors on my 95. I know how to do brakes on a normal car, have done more than enough. But I heard somewhere you need a scan tool to do the brakes on a C4 due to the traction control or the ABS. I plan on just replacing pads (Hawks) and rotors(Cryo, slotted) which means I'll be collapsing the pistons in the calipers. Anything different or can I just fire up my C clamp and go? All help is appreciatted. Oh also any thoughts on bleeding the brake system to install fresh fluid? I do have a Motive pressure bleeder. Thanks again!

You don't need anything special for a 95. Get out the C clamp and go for it. If you are planning a flush it would be a good time to change over to the S/S lines as well.

Hey, that is my winter project!! Please let me know how it goes.

Should the system fluid system be opened before pushing back the pistons?

Also, do the rotors just pop off?

Re/ a scan tool, someone's been blowing smoke up your ass. Go with the Hawks, you won't regret it.

Scan tool? Someone's smoking crack.

I like speed bleeders best but with the Motive, use fresh fluid, don't leave the brake fluid in the Motive. I think it's easier to use the motive for a pump and just fill the master cyl. up to do the bleeding.

Make sure you clean & lube the areas where the calipers slide.

Bed in the pads per the instructions on the Hawk box.
You'll see a big improvemnt, Hawks are great.

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You don't have to "open the system" just check the m/c after doing each caliper If you're going to flush, cracking the bleeders will make it easier to push in the pistons but it's not manditory.
You should flush anyway.

Yea, the rotors just come right off.

A while ago, on that "other" forum, I read a comment written by Andy on Hawk hps pads and how good they were.

He was correct. I still have them on.

I like the Bosch ceramics. I have about 25K on mine now.
At the track, no problems at all (dragstrip). Running thru the mountains at ridiculous speeds with a bunch of Z06s, no problems. Best of all no, and I mean no brake dust crud on my wheels. If you are going to road race do NOT use ceramic pads. I run ceramics and solid rotors and no wear on the rotors either.

The FSM talks about using the scan tool to fully flush the ABS, but I didn't find that necessary. I used Speed Bleeders (along with their little bag and tube), worked like a charm.

The worst part of the whole job for me was getting the top bolt out of the rear calipers - with the emergency brake spring in there it was a PITA.

To collapse the pistons enough for new pads, simply crack the bleeder valve open and spread the pads by hand.

You don't need any special tools.

What I usually do, on a garden variety car is drain the master with my "turkey baster thing" and push the pistons in with a C clamp. Repeat for each wheel. Thanks for all the advice. I do plan on replacing the fluid totally on this project, and painting the calipers red. SS lines? that will have to wait. I have a wedding to attend on the 9th.(not mine) Don't want to get that involved. (i'd break something!) I'll save that for a winter project! Thanks for all the advice! Oh, BTW, I've always suspected folks on the other board smoking crack, came here for the skinny. Thanks All!

Why not come here for both? Smoking crack will make you skinny.

I don't like SS brake lines.

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why not?

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Yeah, why not?

I think the risks outweight the benefits for long-term street usage.

They are less flexible than rubber which makes em more prone to snap the ends off, and the teflon hose can't be inspected so you're stuck with replacing them at regular intervals.

They also don't have any protection against dirt getting in the braids and chewing up the lines. OEM stainless lines on some motorcycles have a plastic cover to keep dirt out. I used shrink tubing over my earl's lines on the vette to accomplish that.

I suspect the stainless lines are more common on bikes since they are more exposed and more critical, and less likely to get cut by road debris.

Is there a single oem putting stainless lines on their cars?

I have an older racecar with SS lines that are probably 20 years old and never had a problem. Since it's an open wheel car they get very dirty.

When I get around to replacing the lines on the C4, I'll go with Earl's.

There were some reports of problems with crappy SS lines, can't remember who made them.

The OEM's aren't putting them on mainly because of cost.

I'm trying to find what Ferrari, Lambo, Lotus, Porsche, etc are putting on their cars from the factory but haven't come up with much.

I'm doing tech at a SCCA time trials Sat. I know there will be some newer Lotus's there. I'll try and remember to check the lines.

Lotus Elise uses rubber.
Bugatti Veyron uses stainless braided.
Carrera GT has a smooth black outer layer, not sure if its rubber or covered stainless.

And of course people taking their car to the track may not have stock parts.

Earl's says the minimum bend radius is 3" (6" diameter). It's not even possible to accomplish that at full steering lock on these cars.

Well I got one wheel done so far (PS rear) I painted the caliper red while I was at it. It's drying now. I will do the other 3 tomarrow. Thanks all!

Does anyone use a screwdriver to push the caliper open prior to taking anything loose?

If you are changing pads and you are turning or replacing the rotor......what harm would come of it.

I see those "c" clamps and shutter.

When compressing the piston(s) back into the caliper, make sure you have the bleed screw open. You do not want to push the crap back through the system.

Suck the current garbage out of the reservoir and fill with fresh for your flush.

Tech 1 or Tech 2 is used for priming the ABS pump and cleaning out the fluid of the ABS.

Well I did get them done and all I can say is Hawks pads ROCK! She had good brakes before but Whoooaaa! Any how, thanks for the help Guys.

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Real good aren't they.

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Yeah Buddy, Real good.