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| jhammons01 | Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Anyone have a good recommendation?
Kragen has them from $9 each to $42 each. suggestions? |
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Posted on: 2009/2/2 22:24
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| Qack | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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As a minimum, make sure they weren't made in China. Their metallurgy is highly suspect. Near as I can tell, you can't go wrong if they are made in the good old US of A.
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Posted on: 2009/2/2 22:32
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| BrianCunningham | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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some have grease fittings.
Which is both good and bad. It makes the easier to lube, but it puts a hold in them what kind of power are you making? |
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Posted on: 2009/2/2 23:39
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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me? stock '84 here......as old as it is, I probably make 150BHP at the wheels.
OK that was an exaggeration |
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Posted on: 2009/2/2 23:41
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| 1Fast04Vert | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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I went with the Spicer solid joints, 579X is the part number if my memory is working. The greasable joints are slightly weaker and you would never get a grease gun in there to the zerks again anyway.
Oops- bad part number, bad memory. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/3 2:22
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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If the zerks were on the end of the ujoint cap, would it clear when rotating?
Yes it would be tough to grease some of them because the aluminum yokes are fatter than steel. But I honestly haven't tried. The outer ones are half buried in the knuckles. Wtf does kragen sell for $40? Everything they sell is from China. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/3 10:07
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| mseven | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Quote:
Wtf does kragen sell for $40? Everything they sell is from China. I bought regular spicers (no zerk)for 27. ea. at a local (http://www.dynotechengineering.com/)dana/spicer dealer (they also have the caps w/bolts etc. in stock, and make custom shafts in alum. moly etc.). To me, it's one of those jobs I don't want to do all that often. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/3 10:55
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| vetteoz | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Quote:
CentralCoaster wrote: The zerks are on the cross. That is why perf guys run the solid ( non greaseble )type because they believe the hole for the zerk is a stress riser causing weakness. Genuine Spicer # 5-799X HD solids are on eBay for $28 Regular Spicer # 5-179X with zerks are $16 -$20 |
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Posted on: 2009/2/3 12:15
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Some have zerks on the end.
I don't think you'll have a problem either way John. My factory pieces lasted 80K and 20 years before the lube ran out. Normally I'd recommend the greaseables if your car is street driven and going to be on the road for at least another 10 years. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/3 17:30
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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John, rockauto sells the ac-delco ones with the coating for cheaper than the parts store.
I don't know who their supplier is though. Cost shouldn't really be a factor on things like this that are replaced at >10 year intervals. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/3 17:33
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| pr0zac | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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I just bought duralasts from autozone. No problems
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Posted on: 2009/2/4 20:32
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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I'm starting this job Tomorrow. Work has been brutal for me the past few weeks. Thanks for all your help.
There was a write up on pulling the half-Shaft...I think it was on here. Does anyone know where it is? |
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Posted on: 2009/2/5 17:46
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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1. Remove spindle nut.
2. Remove (3) T-55 bolts. 3. Remove inner ujoint straps. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/5 18:39
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| Matatk | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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This is one I have bookmarked for when I do mine. http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/ Matthew |
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Posted on: 2009/2/5 20:08
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Ah ok. I was just gonna ask if the outer straps can be accessed without pulling the spindle. Looks like Scorp did exactly that.
So John, here's my modified instructions: 1. Remove inner ujoint straps. 2. Remove outer ujoint straps. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/5 20:37
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| WW7 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Thepartsladi on ebay has AC Delco, the full set of 6 for $80.00,thats a hard price to beat...WW
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Posted on: 2009/2/5 22:33
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Quote:
Now that I'm looking at link provided. It seems like you are right and they took off a bunch of crap that shouldn't have come off. I'll try to take it out by your revised method. Understand, I've not even jacked it up to look at it all without the wheel taken off. I'll report back in a few hours, I've been getting killed with work and I can catch up today if I don't waste the day playing with my car. It'll rain all weekend so I'll just take my time and handle over the rainy three days. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/6 19:02
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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OKay.........Both yokes are loose and nothing budges.
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 0:13
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| tobijohn | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Sorry to hijack but when the half shaft u-joints are being replaced, is it a "best practices" deal to replace the drive shaft u-joints as well? TIA... |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 0:37
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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^^the Drive shaft u-joints should be replaced, trouble is it is a beotch to get to it. I'm not sure if that "C" beam has to come out, but I do know that you'll have to drop the exhaust.
If you have a Manual, attack this when you have to change the Clutch. I did the Drive shaft last year when I put the clutch in. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 0:57
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| vetteoz | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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jhammons01 wrote:OKay.........Both yokes are loose and nothing budges. You have to at least , disconnect the bottom camber arm ( at knuckle,saves having to mark adjuster ), tie rod and spring bolts so you can lever the knuckle out far enough to drop the halfshaft.I disconnect the swaybar links also.The knuckle will lever out as far as the bushes on the dogbones will let it. I use a long 2 x4 horizontal across the camber bolt mount levered against the frame Think about it; the halfshaft is between 2 fixed points with the uni caps seated in the yokes. You have to be able to move one of the points to get it out Usually the uni caps are frozen in and need a tap to crack loose. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 1:15
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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^^OK, so I took out the Tie Rod bolt and the Spring bolt per the posted article by Scorp. This gave the hub enough wiggle for the thing to pry lose and drop out the bottom at an angle. The Camber rod is still in place.
My deal is, the lose caps fell out with the pins going everywhere.....when I'm going back in, how am I going to get all four caps to stay put!!!???!!! Stay tuned. I'll post the woes as I go. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 1:40
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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I'm kinda concerned, and let me clarify.
the old U-joints don't look that bad....... should I be inspecting other things while I'm under here? |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 2:03
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| 1Fast04Vert | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Put some masking tape around them to hold them on until you get them in position. If you have any doubt about the hubs and the teflon washers behind them now is the time. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 2:37
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2004 Vert. 475hp. Built by Vengeance Racing |
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Son of a Bitch!
the U-joints are the wrong size.......Thanks Kragen...... |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 2:52
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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The new u-joint caps are somewhat snug on their own. But it's not a bad idea to tape or zip tie them in place until you're close to bolting em in.
btw, there's only one size half-shaft joint for all C4s. So don't let the counterjockeys tell you otherwise. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 4:35
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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well, their computer had two sizes. I (of course) picked the wrong size....50/50 shot....I'll choose incorrectly 100% of the time.
I got the right size now. Going to Santa Ana on a Rainy Friday night is no fun. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 4:40
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Given the choice, pick the one that's out of stock, its usually the one you need.
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 4:46
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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lol...makes perfect sense
Add that one to this: The inventory purchaser won't buy more of them....why?? Because they never sell any of them.......why? His version is that no one wants them. The truth is they are never in stock for anyone to buy them. which came first? |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 5:09
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| vetteoz | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Quote:
jhammons01 wrote: Same here ,that's why I don't gamble. For anyone else reading this; forget about looking for "Vette" parts in a shop catalog. You want Spicer 1350 series joints for the halfshafts and 1310 series for the DS. Any parts shop should have a master reference that will cross reference to other brands And you are prob better off going to a driveshaft or truck parts place to get them |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 6:04
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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doesn't look good CC.
I got it buttoned up just fine. The thing that bothers me is that the old U-joints looked fine. There was no Ah Ha! moment. If U-joints can look ok and be out of spec, let me know. These were OK. I'm tempted to take it out for a test but it is raining and the wheel is not yet on. I'll wait till tomorrow. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 6:14
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Let's see I posted this on the 2nd....it is now the 6th. could of used the 411 a few days ago. Just kidding around with you. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 6:21
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| vetteoz | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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jhammons01 wrote:Let's see I posted this on the 2nd....it is now the 6th. could of used the 411 a few days ago. Just kidding around with you.  I did give you the actual Spicer 1350 part #'s on the 3rd |
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Posted on: 2009/2/7 11:43
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Alright, that job is done, not as bad as all that. actually, I made more out of it that I should have.
Trouble is, the vibration that I've been chasing is not gone. The noise is gone so I'm good with that, but the 73 mph + vibration is still there. Could it be a bearing in the rear end. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 0:36
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| vetteoz | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Back to elimination 101 Run car on jack stands ( safely ) and see if you can narrow vibration area down. 73 mph is quite high ; anything I have had has started lower. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 4:16
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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^^could it be the Rear end (pumpkin or LSD) bearings?
It shows mostly in the front Driver side fender but doesn't feel like the front wheel is shaking. I've been chasing this same wobble and have had three different set of tires....... I had the wife drive the car down the freeway and I trailed her. I was looking for a visible wheel shake....and nothing at all was visible. I'm thinking it is still that half shaft. Understand, before it was really moving around up in there. Now it is quiet, so I have not ran it on Jack stands to watch again. But I'll jack it up again in the morning to see if I can get it to shake again while on stands. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 8:14
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| Matatk | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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If it is coming from the front DS that's the first place I'd check. How is the suspension up there? Ball joints, etc.
When I had a bad u-joint in my xterra, the whole truck would shake on acceleration over 45 mph, it wasn't limited to one particular area. Just a thought. Matthew |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 12:12
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2002 EBM convertible, Magnusson supercharger, cam, headers, etc. 1989 Corvette...RIP |
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| 1Fast04Vert | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Couple of thoughts. How are the shocks? Possible bent front wheel? |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 13:24
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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My exact thoughts as well. but to note, I only have one half shaft left that doesn't have new u-joints. The Drive shaft has u-joints with ~10k miles maybe.... This side u-joint or half shaft (passenger side) was moving up and down about half an inch when I spun it while trying to find the clacking noise originally. I felt like the u-joint change would fix it. It did as far as the clack clack clack goes. The fact that the wheels are not visibly shaking leads me to believe that the vibration is somewhere besides the typical bent wheel. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 16:12
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Exactly. So When I got this last set of new tires, I had them put the wheels on the balance machine by itself. No visible wobble in all four of the wheels. I used to work in wheel repair http://www.wheel-repairs.com/ So I think (really, I'm no expert) I could spot a bent wheel, but who knows I may have missed it. But it is like that thing when Trouble shooting some MS Windows trouble -did this solve your problem? -No, I'd like to try something else at this point, I'd click "No, I'd like to try something else. The Shocks have about 1000-2000 miles on them. Brand new KYBs. So you can see, I've been going down the check list. I'm skeered that it is a Pinion Bearing in the pumpkin. You guys talk me down off that ledge. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 16:18
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| BillH | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Bad shocks just won't cause this problem.
Maybe you did check, but did you check all the wheel bearings? And rocking them back & forth at 9 & 3 can check the tie rods. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 16:32
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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^^Front or Rear? Or both?
I've replaced the LR bearing as it was bad. The RR bearing has no play...I've wobbled it all directions and other than the slightest slop it seems ok. I may be wrong. So jack it up and stress the wheel at 9 and 3? Am I looking for "flex" or all out slop? We've used large Screwdrivers when aligning the wheels to see if we could find anything loose. And the only thing was a Rear Dogbone.....but whether it was bad or not was questionable amongst the techs at the alignment shop. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 16:38
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Some signs of wear.
The RR tire wears very quickly....I'm thinking that it was due to the U-Joints. The Right Front tire seems to wear on the outside only, despite three times on the Alignment rack. The Left front wears OK yet the fender portion of the clam shell above it shakes. The RR tire with the questionable Dogbone wears fine as well |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 16:42
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| BillH | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Quote:
Both front & rear. You can get the best indication of wheel bearings at 12 & 6. When you go back & forth at 9 & 3, watch the tierod ends, everything that connects to the front spindles/rear bearing carriers. It's easier with 2 people. On jackstands, doing this, does the dogbone move at all? Flex vs slop is a tough call, you'll get a little flex with the rubber bushings, especially if their old but I'd think slop (like tierod ends) would be more likely to cause the problem. But, if everything's reasonably tight, it's something else. You eliminated the u-joints and have a good feel for the wheels. You could put a dial indicator on the wheels, both ways, bead lip for runout and on the inner edge for out of round, but you probably already know this. IMO, at 73, wheel balance problems start to go away. BTW, everybody's dropped the u-joint caps at least once. They even make a rubber tool to hold them on. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 17:37
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Well, I won't discount old suspension parts as the culprit. I recheck the Tie rods. I just figured the wheel itself would be visibly shaking if so.
And why did you mention the u-joint cap thing? I'm pretty sure I got all the caps in place the first try. There are ears on the yokes that the caps have to fit inside of before the straps go on. I'm positive I hit the mark on all four accounts. Only one gave me any trouble. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 18:22
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| BillH | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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Only because most everyone that's played with drivelines/halfshafts has dropped a cap and hunted for the needles on the floor. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 20:08
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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^^oh yeah, did that in 1980 with my Cutlass Supreme.
Not only that, I allowed some of the pins to fall over while pressing on the cap.....they indented the inside of the cap as I hammered the shit out it trying to get that last .060" so that the clip would fit in the grove. after hours of labor and destroying u-joints, You'll only ignore that once. Back on topic It has to be the RR Wheel bearing. That or the pumpkin. I think the gears inside are rubbing/clanging together. That or the coupling bearing between the T10 and the Nash overdrive has come apart.... The Drive shaft is rolling smooth, even at speeds...but the rear end still makes that rack rack rack sound and the half shafts sort of jump. The drive shaft does not move at all......it is spinning nice and smooth. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 20:47
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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I took a long screwdriver and put it to the rear end. I could hear what I think are the gears hitting roughly as they spin.
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Posted on: 2009/2/8 20:48
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| jhammons01 | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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I give up for now.
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Posted on: 2009/2/9 3:29
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints | ||
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What part of the right halfshaft is moving up and down? Diff or wheel side? Its sounding like a bad bearing to me.
Make sure you don't have the parking brake on when checking the bearing play. Was the bad LR wear due to that completely shot bearing that was replaced? If so it shouldn't be an issue now. BTW I have 2 bearings that are still good, I pulled them to install the tapered rollers. Either are yours free if you're in the area. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/9 3:56
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