Check out what Lingenfelter has to say on this. Rams horn is a term usualy reffering to the shape of the curved cast manifolds on older vettes. he meant to say shorty. as they are similar in shape. Aloha

A roller cam needs no break in and do not let idle for long, drive between casual and mildly hard in order to seat the rings. Aloha

removal of the air pump without removing the main cat will saturrate the cat from excess fueling on startup and ruin the cat in short order, lose emission compliance (visual, probably sniffer) and have you cleaning dirty things in a lot of areas that you can now see. That said, I removed mine (Hawaii) and have you dreaming of a turbo or supercharger to put in the new found space! Aloha

The only thing I would add is to install a 0 to 300 psi gauge and seven feet of TRANS hose to a 90* fitting in the port above the shifter lever and compare with the factory specs for all six positions. This is the only way to accurately tell if the tv cable was/is adjusted properly. and have an assistant push the gas pedal all the way down while verifying that the throttle blades open all the way Aloha

the tpi procharger is designed to remount the alt. and if the pwr steering is the same as the lt1 or just use an l98 pump use a delete pulley for the tpi alt. relocation, I don't see how this would be so hard to pull off if one was super cheap and available or free I would try. sounds kinda fun. Aloha

I would look at the gasket sets at your local parts store to compare port shape-size. Aloha

genuine GM is fine for the valve stem seals. Sealed power/ trw is an excellent brand. Aloha

belt tensioner or idler pulley going? aloha

Rod knock, busted skirts, sounds like serious detonation was going on there! the stock pistons are cheesey hypereutechtics and shatter not melt when extreme detonation is going on. do not ignore spark knock! or someone blasted it with nawzzz? ridge ream? self honed with what? a berry hone? What were the cylinders checked with ?listen to PeteK and while your at it get the reciprocating assembly balanced, chamfer oil holes, and get the block decked (for squish) if needed as well as line honed if mains are off. Aloha

Do not try to use this adjuster to change shift characteristics, it is Not for that. that can be accomplished by the valve body inside the pan. screwing with this and getting it wrong will melt your trans. when done adjusting the tv cable Always get a friend to push down the accelerator pedal to make sure full throttle is being achieved at the pedal (you may be surprised) Bowtie overdrves transmissions has a great writeup on this system. TCI has a constant pressure valve body (BUT IS TOO NEW to say if good or bad) Aloha

I would advise anyone thinking about installing fat 8mm wires on these engines to forget it and get wires made to fit the original wire routing. can it be done? only if you have more time than brains. (dont ask how I know this) besides there are thin high perf. wires available nowadays. Aloha

A lot of people freak out at a temp reading around 200* but when the temp is taken at the cyl head this is fine. remember if not in this range you will not make good power. if you are not pinging you are not overheating. This is not always an audible ping, knock many times is inaudible and can be seen by timing being taken out by the esc system idle/load vehicle while on a machine or timing light and wait. Too low of a press cap can give you steam pockets as well. Aux fan may be working but not main fan. ALOHA

Pushrods wha? should have got that right the first time out! so custom grind cam but wrong pushrod length? and no specs, huh? why did this guy ask for help? When going with a new cam and or timing chain dot to dot means nothing to me. let alone "straight up" I have seen timing gears off by quit a few degrees as well as many cams have built in advance or retard so without a cam card and degreeing the cam, you and your builder or tuner are only pretending. cnc heads tell us nothing either. cc's? deck height? no push rod length, installed spring height,ect. frick- geesh

Remote start? solenoid still being used? sol. may be shot or and fried ground. when a remote sol is used care must be taken to ensure wired correctly, do not bridge starter if pm type(permanent magnet) (usually mini) and that you understand the p/n switch is NOT a switch controlling power on C4 but ground.

The p/n switch or ground (this switch controls ground not power) could be fricked.
Don't forget to check oil pressure and oil press/switch (I know it won't disable starter but someone may try this same logic aproach when in a no fuel condition) Aloha

Ha!, I just noticed the date of post. oh well, hope it helps someone in the future! Been up ALL night... going to bed now. Aloha

Intermittant ignition signal to the computer can cause this or I have seen the low oil press switch wired incorrectly (the wires get bleached out from oil/heat) bad low oil press switch, low oil press., bad grounds can cause all kinds of strange problems (clean them ALL) and use aluminum oxide paste (not dielectric grease), the TCC could be stuck on, wet or overly dirty air filter, injector flooding, plugged cat, IAC fubar or MASSIVE air leak, water in the tank, Ignition module or coil crapping out (see #1), and last but not least I have seen bugs plug the tank vent tube (I hate mud wasps)(but not 5 secs) Later years bad crank sig sender, I'm out of ideas, please let the forum know when you find out what "it" was.
Aloha

The First looks ok for small kine improvements over the tpi. But I personally hate TPI. (unless it's on someones 305)

The BBK looks like sealing would be a problem as bad as the SR!, but without the large plenum volume I don't see it as an improvement over the SR. Aloha

As far as tall valve covers with the SR or others, the fabbed valve covers from Canton racing (listed as for 93 and up) are notched (to clear the ac comp) but work great flipped around in order to clear the windshield wiper motor. These also "kinda" clear the runners as well. Aloha

Just read the thirgen forums and good tips, please read them too especialy verns troubles with air distribution probs. His posts are from 06 so I can't help him now but if he looked over everything before bolting up he may have found a sand cast hole causing a internal leak (poke everywhere!) but his real problem I will bet was from his pos billet summit pcv valve as they do not seal at all and I'm surprised didn't fall into his engine! I had to machine a lip and fab a plate then seal the tube to make mine work (why? it's pretty) to machine the lip I had to make a square notched block to fit the hole to have a center to work from. NEVER ASSUME Aloha

If you do go withan SR buy stock in your fave sandpaper company (I tore a pec and lat muscle polishing mine) and don't chase tiny pits (you will only uncover more) the wire harness holes are HUGE I routed mine under the ac box and had to lengthen every thing (for clean look only) Drill out and install stainless t-nuts for the lid and as soon as you get the lid ask to send it back for the supposedly free billet replacement if yours is warped (it will be). As I said I love it though, and the fact that it is available at all is a small miracle to me, helicoil the upper runner bolt holes and loktite them to access them from inside the plenum, theres more but no biggie. Aloha

Playing with a tpi for performance is worthless, BUT the superram is a pita! If I had to do it all over again I would go with the miniram. I still love the sr though. The tpi runners cannot be ported as they are paper thin and the superram runners are thicker but they can't be extrude honed because the machining for the bolts leaves them very thin in these locations. When you install sr runners jb or weld all these bolt areas as many are so thin there are allready holes! It will look like a bear clawed the plenum sandcast molds as well as chunks of sand/cast inside! Warped cast lid, holes not lining up, lid bolts threaded into the aluminum, mmm sand cast holes. Aloha

MAHALO Bogus. Aloha

Pressure test with dye is the only way I go, unless it's on the way home ect. . As far as being bottom feeders there is a great video on youtube of a guy pulling a dead bird out of his vette. Aloha

Nice, thank you! Aloha

The knock you are seeing may be from harmonic block/header noise or un heat sheilded sensor with headers.
If the sensor is properly shielded and there are no problems with the engine mechanicaly try some teflon tape with a seperate ground wire providing the ground and see if this calms things down at those rpms. the knock sensor can be tuned in this way, you can check for proper function with a hammer and a timing light. Thats why I like to tune my knock sensor
Kudos for the dyno results! without a wideband to check for a lean condition first is pointless. innovate has them for "cheap" as well. Aloha

I think the confusion with locating where this line goes into the firewall is because it goes along with the wiring through the wiring bulkhead connector, not seperrately.
When I hear of insulation in the ducts I think mice and start looking for chewed anything wire / plastic hose.
Aloha

Whenever I have run into this I strap an old school coolant temp gauge probe to the lower rad hose and see whats going on. I mean, really how cool can a l98 run? I know my readings won't be super accurate but you can see how things are getting on. You can infrared the head as well as just check all the temp sensors one at a time. A cold running l98, never heard of that
PS, can everyone go out and get a wide band o2 please? They are getting very affordable now, these should be pennies by now if more people bought them.
90% of the ass scratching would go away. Aloha

H) great shape. always torn apart though!

I love the way nitrous cams with the wide lsa sound @ idle, very unasuming and then whaaaaaaaaaaaa! love it.

Make pimp hand posts. That's what I'm gonna do. I am a post pimp. Fwack! Hi! new here and couldn't think of a better way to say hi. Plus I still need to fill out my profile.

Mahalo and aloha.

A wide band o2 wil tell you more than anything else and are getting pretty cheap now. check innovative motorsports or visit a dyno. Screw what someone (no matter how good a tuner) says looking at your bin files without wideband data, that's like tuning a carb!

As far as measuring performance gains, when the seat of your pants fail, and no dyno is available/affordable. g-techs are good (there are many others) Aloha

sudden idle problems are (almost) always from unmetered air, weather internal (IAC-egr-intake manifold-MAS-tps-MAP) or external (hoses-intake manifold-exhaust)plugs clean to glazed., a vac gauge and multimeter is cheap and tells alot.

ignition problems usually backfire through the intake. exhaust/oil smells like gas, plugs may be wet.timing light and vac gauge tells alot

fuel usually either falls flat,pings, retards timing, white, blistered, speckled,or extreme- melted plugs,(lean).

(rich) black smoke on acceleration, backfiring through exhaust (esp. on decel) sooty plugs, cat is way hot, poor mileage and bucking. pressure gauge is cheap and tells alot. wide band o2 is not but tells all and getting cheaper all the time, don't forget a dirty, wet or restricted air filter can cause a too rich condition as well. you may only have some of these symptoms but they should fall into a category. take your time and have fun and remember there is no voodoo. if you do a (real) tune up first before you diagnose you will usualy fix the problem. Aloha

No. Aloha

I would not go larger than .510 with a stock spring settup. you will run into coil bind/ valve float before you hit the piston. the rockers will likely bind also. I understand guys go more, but I would go aftermarket over .510. Aloha

when you have a dead batt. charge to full, hook up the positive cable only and with a electric tester connect the meter + probe to the - post and the other probe to Frame with the - cable disconnected. you should not see any voltage other than memory then pull fuses for anything that needs memory (will have to reset) to see a drain on the batt then just find cause of drain :0 short, relay stuck, horn, amp, stereo, hvac ect. pull one fuse at a time till you find the circuit. then chase the wires in that circuit. but always clean ALL grounds first even if they "look" good. use aluminum oxide paste on all connectors (oxguard is one brand) never use dielectric grease when making connections only AFTER the connections have been made, dielectric grease does not conduct electricity for shyte. alldatadiy.com has a online manual for diagrams of specific circuits. Aloha

go stand alone computer first this will allow for future mods. if you go accel they have plug and play. superram is a pain but worth it. edelbrock heads will allow for egr. 87 up 700r4 is NOT junk. 1800 to 2500 stall converter depending on gear, cam, tire size, weight. afpr is a terrible way to tune but helpfull. can stay green. cold start will not be needed. do not mix intake parts stick with one company if you can. 24# is kinda small but would not go over 30# in your case. and innovate wide band for tune then stock narrow for rest of time. lingenfelter has matched cams for the sr. for you, avoid long tube headers with cats. there is also interface wiring to keep the stock computer with the accel gen 7. Aloha

x pipe helps torque and not so much hp. helps avoid the drone as well. avoid the three bolt flange connectors like the plauge. ball and socket is much better even if you have to modify a new part it is worth it!

I would never (unless it's mad max time) beat on a dampener as this beats on the thrust bearing as well. I don't care if it "works" I can get you to work by beating on you... or I could be nice and fair. which one would you prefer? Aloha

Lingenfelter liked the ss 1 5/8 primary stock headers though. the cats are the real problem. check out the sosn (something old something new) tech article @ gmhightechperformace.com site for an eye opener. hint over 400 hp and enuff tq to (add funny thing)for days Also Lingenfelters book is a must read! the superram is awesome but be prepaired for poor casting and machining from accel and it's a pain to install (there are mods/ tools to make this easier though. avoid changing only one or some parts of the intake system as the gains will be marginal, think of it as a whole. accels dfi gen 7 computer has plug and play interface available for most performance cars and for your year. this is the first thing I would reccomend as the chip thing sucks so bad I would never even consider it, making changes is a breeze with a stand alone system. with plug and play you only get bank to bank fueling but it is all most street cars will ever need. the gen 7 allows for nawzz and boost also. the wide band innovate settup is cheap and will only let you down in high mileage use or 10 psi and higher boost apps by a small margin in lag times reading slightly richer than should. use for tuning and replace with narrow band for street use, or leave in permanently for richer than stock (14.7 to 1) for best power (no cats!) finally I always wrap my headers (scavenging effect and lower underhood temps. IF you do go with other than stock headers make damn sure they are ball and socket type (can add to cheesy three bolt types) exhaust leaks suck on efi. remember this block can handle almost 500 hp stock! avoid cams with too much lift for your springs and it's not always about gaining hp/tq but not losing it as well! performance is not breaking parts also Aloha

some mini starters are permanent magnet types and care should be taken when wiring these types of starters to avoid the starter staying engaged with the ring gear after startup, also many times the bolts that come with these starters don't slide very easily in the mount holes (round file not drill to clean up) and the billet mounting block can hit the pan rail (just notch the starter mount) and last but not least most don't really clock as advertised. Aloha

poor oil control causes detonation and vacuum flutter affecting the map sensor, and the o2 sensor doesn't like it either. new seals can allow a person to save up for the NEEDED repairs while still driving the vehicle for a LIMITED time. the est will pull timing out, the iac will hunt slightly more and a oil induced missfire will cause the engine to run rich when the o2 sensor misreads from the extra fuel. (sounds strange but true) cats don't like any of this either. the A.I.R sytem will help the main cat but without A>I>R your cat will die sooner than later especially on cold startup when oil is at it's worst, fuel at it's richest, cat at it's coldest and the computer can't help. worst when on a c4 with no MAS. Aloha

you should have the tcc unlock when you apply the brakes. it should lock in fourth gear. it will also unlock when going from fourth to third. the computor handles the ground side and can only shut it off or not allow it to come on*. this can be checked via the (I believe) Tan/black wire at the diagnostic port. Aloha

*not positive but I don't think the computor does much controlling if at all. and if so only based on the vss signal, and long stretch here the map or tps. and if so remember can control solenoid ground only anyways.

your idle adjustment may have put you in a lean condtion that the est can't control knock anymore ( not all spark knock is audible) also an egr code can usually mean lean as well (the egr may have been leaking allready and your idle adjustmet can put you over the edge) thats why the factory puts that plug in to deter us number one symptom of a bad egr? poor idle. Aloha

I don't like to push my valves bare against the pistons so the rope works without any chance of ANY problems, just melt cut end of nylon rope first Aloha

the nylon rope is my favorite diy method but the real catch is to tap the top edge of the spring compressor tool finger with a small hammer to release the stem locks or risk pushing the valve to hard. also use a valve sleeve (pennies)and seal install tool (top of old valve stem is sharp), (can dress w/ file)or your new seals will be trash, make sure seals aren't causing the springs to bind. some positive seals need guide machining to sit low and tight so check wich type of seal.
this is a marginal short term fix though best results with bad guides are to also use valve spring shields on all springs, usually only intake springs have them. Aloha

alternator backfeed could cause this you may need a diode if you changed alternator. are you running a one wire or stock? A pm magnet ministarter can backfeed also but is hard to hear as the mini starter has a bronze bush when it stays engaged w/ drive gear, esp. with loud exhaust. this usually happens with remote solenoid. Aloha oh yeah, the fans can backfeed also cause the fan is wired to the alt on factory c4

Thanks! yes it is kinda worthless IMO, with lots to go wrong as far as coolant goes. removed mine and went with a traditional cooler. kc4 is the factory code for this option. and it realy is a heat exchanger. best suited for fast warmup of oil. Aloha

I moved my battery behind pass seat and mounted the accusump under the bar
pointing at near the middle of block. using the moroso bracket kit and my own adapter to mate bracket to bar, to get angle of accusump just right. this is the best way I could find after months of agonizing where to put this huge beast!

My eyes!

My favorite quik way of finding an oil leak is to clean real well and spray a healthy dose of foot spray near suspect area leaving a dry white powder that shows the offending leak easily most times, washes off and no more itchy parts. Aloha