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There is one in each door. On the 1984-1989 C4s, the door lights can be turned on and off by pressing them.

There are lights under each knee bols...
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JeffK Up on stands
Elite Guru
High Point, NC
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Ok guys, I have a couple of questions since I put the car up on jackstands last night and found some more issues that I want to attend to.

first question - how long can I safely leave the car up in the air without causing damage to the suspension?

Then, how can I identify which rear diff I have since my car is missing the RPO sticker? and Is it possible to change the yoke seal with hand tools?

And, my dipstick is leaking where it goes into the block. Does anyone know where I could get a braided flexible replacement?

Is there any special way that I should support the car when removing the C-beam?

Thanks,
Jeff
Posted on: 2010/12/16 16:23
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bogus Re: Up on stands
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whew, questions...

1. Suspension damage from jacking - none that I am aware of.

2. Ratio assessment - You need to turn the cars wheel one revolution, then count the number of revolutions of the driveshaft. Do a little math, get your answer. Also, check the diff, there might be a tag on it. I am assuming it's an auto? Finally, order a build sheet from Bowling Green.

3. Changing yoke seal - Good question. I am not sure. I would have to check the Helm to make sure.

4. All you need is to replace the o-ring where the tube meets the block, unless you want the trick braided part. If you want the trick braided part, then check with someone like Summit Racing, it's just a SBC engine accessory.

5. You should, after getting the c-beam out, support the trans with a jack. This way it won't stress the motor mounts. If the trans is coming out, then support the motor, at the block. A jack and a 2x4 or some such thing will work.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 17:56
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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High Point, NC
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Andy, thank you.

I'm not worried about damage to the suspension from jacking. More about stressing the spring from having the weight of everything hanging for too long while it's up on the stands.

SHHHH!!! Don't say anything about the trans coming out, that's not part of the plan...ever I hope. unless I hit the lottery then it's game on.

The dipstick tube doesn't bolt fast to anything at this time because of the headers so I thought the braided one would be better if I'm replacing then I could secure it to something.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 18:02
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CentralCoaster Re: Up on stands
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Leaving it on stands indefinitely won't hurt the suspension.

The c-beam is your rear trans mount. So support the trans before removing it. You can drop it quite a bit if necessary, just don't let it hang.

Always use a block or mechanical jack for that type of support, as a hydraulic jack may leak over a few hours or days.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 18:03
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WW7 Re: Up on stands
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Almost Heaven WV
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I believe there's a number under the center console that you can check on an options list to see which rear end you have in your car.All the numbers under there are the options your car came with.Below is a link to a site with the codes to C4s, it was posted by some guy named Bogus....WW.


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-ge ... on/956104-c4-rpo-faq.html
Posted on: 2010/12/16 18:14
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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No RPO sticker in my console.

I will look tonight to see if the rearend has a tag on it.

It's dead at work today so I've been doing some research on that yoke / pinion seal. Doesn't sound like any fun trying to get the nut off.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 18:22
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tjpreul Re: Up on stands
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Columbia, MO
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I don't know what year they started, but my gear ratio is stamped on the housing.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 18:33
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Ultraman Re: Up on stands
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I sent the 100 bucks to Bowling Green and got the original window sticker and the build sheet laminated and some other stuff for my 90. That will tell you what your options are and which dealer ordered the car. It's cool to have and read if you want to part with a C note.

I thought it wasn't good for the shocks to have the weight of the wheels and tires hanging on them indefenatly.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 20:37
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
I sent the 100 bucks to Bowling Green and got the original window sticker and the build sheet laminated and some other stuff for my 90. That will tell you what your options are and which dealer ordered the car. It's cool to have and read if you want to part with a C note.

I thought it wasn't good for the shocks to have the weight of the wheels and tires hanging on them indefenatly.


Well, it probably won't be more than a week or so...I hope.

I might eventually get the built sheet but it's too close to Christmas to part with a $100 right now
Posted on: 2010/12/16 20:46
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captmike13 Re: Up on stands
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:
No RPO sticker in my console.

I will look tonight to see if the rearend has a tag on it.

It's dead at work today so I've been doing some research on that yoke / pinion seal. Doesn't sound like any fun trying to get the nut off.


If yours is like mine then the RPO codes could be under the storage compartment lids. Mine are under the driver side I believe.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 20:48
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bogus Re: Up on stands
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
I sent the 100 bucks to Bowling Green and got the original window sticker and the build sheet laminated and some other stuff for my 90. That will tell you what your options are and which dealer ordered the car. It's cool to have and read if you want to part with a C note.

I thought it wasn't good for the shocks to have the weight of the wheels and tires hanging on them indefenatly.


That is a good point; I would remove the wheels.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 21:49
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BillH Re: Up on stands
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
I thought it wasn't good for the shocks to have the weight of the wheels and tires hanging on them indefenatly.


It's no big deal really. Once the shocks are extended, the valve body is resting on top of the outer tube or possibly resting on an o-ring between the valve body and the cap (rebuildable shocks).
Once it's there, it's there. Weight of the wheels won't make a difference because nothing's moving. Hanging it like this for one minute or 2 months won't make any difference.

Racecars sit on stands for 3 months at a time over the winter and they have expensive shocks.

The only thing is that more of the shaft is exposed.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 22:07
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CentralCoaster Re: Up on stands
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What year vette? Auto or stick? As mentioned, 85 has the RPOs under one of the rear compartment lids.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 22:13
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
What year vette? Auto or stick? As mentioned, 85 has the RPOs under one of the rear compartment lids.


90 L98 Automatic 132K
Posted on: 2010/12/16 22:15
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CentralCoaster Re: Up on stands
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give us an rpm and speed while in overdrive with the converter locked up.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 23:00
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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If the tach worked I would fo that. Lol . Add that to the list of things I need to fix.
Posted on: 2010/12/16 23:14
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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Who the F%^K dreamt up that C-beam configuration?!?!?! They could have atleast made the nuts on top captive so you didn't have to figure out how to get a wrench up there.

How do I get the beam out now that I have the bolts out?

The underside of the car is so covered in fluid that I could not see any stamps or markings on the rear end.

Another question... when I pull the driveshaft out of the tranny will it drain the fluid? I just want to know so I can have drain pan ready.


Thanks guru's!!
Posted on: 2010/12/17 2:19
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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Dirty pictures...shield your eyes

[IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s46/kresge1975/SU1HMDAwMzctMjAxMDEyMTYtMTg1MC5qcGc.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s46/kresge1975/SU1HMDAwMzgtMjAxMDEyMTYtMTg1MC5qcGc.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s46/kresge1975/SU1HMDAwMzYtMjAxMDEyMTYtMTg1MC5qcGc.jpg[/IMG]

Found one of the exhaust leaks too.

[IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s46/kresge1975/SU1HMDAwMzUtMjAxMDEyMTYtMTg0OS5qcGc.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s46/kresge1975/SU1HMDAwMzQtMjAxMDEyMTYtMTg0OS5qcGc.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s46/kresge1975/SU1HMDAwMzItMjAxMDEyMTYtMTg0OC5qcGc.jpg[/IMG]

Not sure why a magnaflow cat wouldn't seal up good to a magnaflow catback.
Posted on: 2010/12/17 16:59
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bogus Re: Up on stands
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you may want to reinstall with some exhaust puddy. Just to be sure.

As for the c-beam, that's the strength of beam plates. They have the bolts captured. The other upside is how they help absorb torque, so the rear doesn't kick to the left under hard acceleration.
Posted on: 2010/12/17 18:25
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jhammons01 Re: Up on stands
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Couple of things,

First, your Diff could have the gears stamped or etched on the bottom of the casing....if you are under there, just wipe the rear of the casing and see if you don't see some writing.

You are worried about the tranny coming out. Trust me when I say, if there is a hint that the tranny needs servicing...another half hour work and that thing is out once the C-beam is gone. If you were ever thinking about having the tranny rebuilt for whatever reason....throw this on the "while you are there" list.

Look up my thread on "grinding the C-beam"....helpful hints.

I can't think of a single thing that would be damaged by having your car on stands..with or without the wheels on.
Posted on: 2010/12/17 19:00
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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High Point, NC
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Andy, I've never heard of exhaust putty. I might have to see if I can find some. I want to take my homemade Y pipe to an exhaust shop and make sure that all of my welds are air tight.

John, I remembered that thread as soon as you mentioned it. I might do that once I get it out and degreased.

Any input on if the fluid will drain out when I pull the shaft?
Posted on: 2010/12/17 19:13
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bogus Re: Up on stands
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fluid will drain out of where? The trans or the rear?

I would expect either, really... I know it will drain out of the transmission. So be ready to jack it back up.

It might not drain out of the rear that quickly, because the rear doesn't sag nearly as much.
Posted on: 2010/12/17 21:31
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Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me

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CentralCoaster Re: Up on stands
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Slide the c-beam to the side.

A little fluid might drain from the trans when you pull the driveshaft, expect more if you tip it.

The cbeam has to come down beside the trans. You may or may not find it useful to lower the trans a few inches. It doesn't want to fit cockeyed on the diff, so it has to also scoot forward as you pull it down.

Have a friend try pulling the trans a little to the drivers side if necessary to make room.
Posted on: 2010/12/17 21:54
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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I gave up on trying to get the C-beam out and just pulled the drive shaft. Changed out the rear seal on the trans..which I had asked a "Corvette Specialist" to do but he ignored me and changed the speedo gear o-ring instead.

The u-joints don't have any side to side play but they seem really easy to move. Floppy. I'm thinking that since I have it down I am going to change them.

Also, the output shaft on the transmission moves side to side about 5/16" is that bad?
Posted on: 2010/12/20 13:35
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CentralCoaster Re: Up on stands
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Yes!
Posted on: 2010/12/20 16:11
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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High Point, NC
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Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
Yes!


LOL, Yes to the shaft moving being bad?

Isn't there a bushing in there somewhere and I can change. I think I remember reading about that on the other forum.
Posted on: 2010/12/20 16:26
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jonszr1 Re: Up on stands
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Lone Pine, CA
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most likely you will need a new yoke for the drive shaft
Posted on: 2010/12/20 23:20
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i have a blast playing with my 4 babies 2 zr1s and 2 mustangs 68 coupe with a jon bennit 408 art car fully rollered c4 with a gearvendors over drive .88 mustang built by my kids with a ported lt5 and a bill boudreau blue printed zf 6 spd. with these 4 ...
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RestoMod57 Re: Up on stands
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This might be a little late, but here goes anyway.

C4 automatics used the Dana 36 carrier, manuals used the D44. If yours has a single center bolt at the top of the carrier cover, it's a D36. D44's have two top bolts only.

The ratio and part numbers are stamped on the bottom of the carrier. The Dana part number is at top and GM number below it. Then the gear ratio below that alongside the ring and pinion teeth numbers. Bottom line is the build date.

I removed the pinion nut by heating with propane torch for about 45 seconds - BUT MY CARRIER DID NOT HAVE FLUID IN IT! So if a pry bar or impact can't loosen the nut, I'm out of options for you.

Attach file:



jpg  Website_Diff Codes.jpg (46.93 KB)
2124_4d122ee6a63a4.jpg 721X455 px
Posted on: 2010/12/22 17:02
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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High Point, NC
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It's still up on the stands. I'm not sure that I am going to mess with the rear diff seal. I will check to see if I can find that stamping though. Just so I know.

Waiting for the new rubber strap and u-joint straps/bolts to come from Corvette Central.


Thank you for the information. I like your avatar pic too. Miss my Rottie.
Posted on: 2010/12/22 17:07
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RestoMod57 Re: Up on stands
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Understood. The pinion nut can be a real b&*($%. And if you thought removing it was hard, try tightening it to 200 lb-ft! If you do get it off, rent a large torque wrench to torque to spec. Buying one will spin your cap off.

Automatic coupes had the 2.59 gear ratio while convertibles came with 3.07. The donor car for my project was a droptop. The D36 with 2.59 ratio was RPO GM1. The 3.07 was RPO G44. Maybe the tags the other gurus are telling you about will have one of these RPO's.

But understand this information is for 1995 cars. I think they are the same for your 1990, but I'm not that up to date.

Here's a photo of the rear of a D36. One single bolt at top-middle. Good luck!

My avatar is a picture of my dog Tank. He had to be put down three years ago - I'm still not over it. Rotties are the best dogs in the world.

Attach file:



jpg  Disassembly_Carrier_After cover removed_closeup.jpg (467.98 KB)
2124_4d1234560da9f.jpg 2048X1536 px
Posted on: 2010/12/22 17:24
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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I don't have any online pictures of Chyna. She was the best dog I've ever had. She left us about a year ago. Amazing companion especially considering I rescued her from the pound in GA one day before they put her down.

We will see once I get back out there if I feel like trying to get that nut off. I can't imagine trying to get it back on to 200lbs.
Posted on: 2010/12/22 18:40
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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Got a present from Corvette Central today...

[IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s46/kresge1975/SU1HMDAwMzktMjAxMDEyMjMtMTQ1Mi5qcGc.jpg[/IMG]

Middle exhaust hanger
Posted on: 2010/12/23 19:56
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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Ok, I can not get the c-beam bolts in the rear-end. What's the secret?
Posted on: 2011/1/2 22:43
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Matatk Re: Up on stands
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:
Ok, I can not get the c-beam bolts in the rear-end. What's the secret?


To reinstall it? Did you already put the ones in the trans and tighten them? If so, that's the problem. Try removing one from the trans and loosening the other one. It gives it a little more wiggle room. You can also try to jack the trans a bit to see if it aligns it better.

Matthew
Posted on: 2011/1/3 12:35
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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I have the two in the trans with the nuts just barely started. I have been jacking the trans around trying to get it all to fall together. I will try taking one of the bolts out of the transmission.
Posted on: 2011/1/3 12:52
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bogus Re: Up on stands
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When I bought my prybar set, it included a large, pointy metal rod. Looks like a big ass pencil.

I used that to pry the c-beam into alignment with the rear end. The rear will start to sag a bit without the c-beam in alignment. You can wiggle the trans all you want, but it won't do it.

Jam that into the c-beam and the rear and you are getting somewhere. Don't be surprised if both holes don't quite align.

It can be annoyingly fiddly.
Posted on: 2011/1/3 18:17
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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I can get the bolts into the bottom but the holes on the top just won't line up. It looks like the rear needs to roll forward. I got tired of messing with it last night and gave up...

C-beam - 1
Jeff - 0

Rematch tonight!

I think I know what you are talking about Andy. I was thinking that something like that would be helpful.
Posted on: 2011/1/3 19:19
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CentralCoaster Re: Up on stands
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My rear diff actually pointed up when disconnected, which meant the cbeam holes were too far forward.

To get the c beam upper holes to line up I had to hang from the nose of the diff with one arm while threading a bolt in.
Posted on: 2011/1/3 20:50
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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Well, I finally got the c-beam bolted back up. I took both of the bolts out of the transmission and jacked it around some more. What a pain. I hate putting it back together still somewhat dirty but it's too cold and I don't have anywhere to pressure washer the underside anyway.

I still have to put the exhaust back up.

Had to work on my Jetta last night...replacing belts at 35K.
Posted on: 2011/1/4 13:09
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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Got the exhaust back on last night and fired it up. Too the rear wheels sensor out and cleaned it. Wow there was a ton of crap built up on that thing.

Now I need to figure out where all the other transmission fluid is coming from.

and figure out why there's oil running down over the starter.
Posted on: 2011/1/5 12:46
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LD85 Re: Up on stands
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Should be a print out on the top of the gas tank
Posted on: 2011/1/7 13:04
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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Well, I got it down on the ground tonight and took it for a spin. I still need to do the leak down so I didn't drive it too far. I will see if I fixed the trans leak in the morning.
I did not get all of the exhaust leaks fixed. I am going to have to take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld the cat to the Y pipe.

I never did look to see what rear end ratio I have. I need to get that serviced too eventually.
Posted on: 2011/1/10 2:40
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bogus Re: Up on stands
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Do you have smog checks in NC? If it was me, before spending any money fixing that congestive OEM exhaust, I would look at getting a dual system... Like the LT1.

I am sure you can find a used LT1 exhaust on the cheap, its just finding it near by.
Posted on: 2011/1/10 3:14
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JeffK Re: Up on stands
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2010/6/18 12:27



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It's not the stock system. They do a sniff test though I think. I have Hedmans, no precats, Magnaflow cat and Magnaflow cat-back.
Posted on: 2011/1/10 12:10
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