Welcome top the family

If I had to pick one I think it would be the first. I don't really know if I like or not though. I look one minute and I do, then I look again and I don't .

Thank you Sir

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I was going to use a dremel too, seems like the safest way to go. I am just wandering right now how much would be safe to leave behind.

After measuring it looks like there is almost an inch of thread just in the heads then I have ¼ inch thick flange in the headers to 1 inch here I come. I liked the idea of these as much for the Allen head with external flats as much as for the wire, sounds like the wire is a waist of time though. I will probably just go with stainless socket head Allen bolts but would still like the flats on the outside for a backup system. By the way Notorious thanks for the gasket advice I was about to ask about them.

Staples gives back $3 per cart?

Uh Oh! Heres comes another Calif green tax on printer carts.

Also, you may want to remove the factory sealant... depending on what brand you get.

I used Russell bleeders and the sealant was so damn hard it flaked off and got in the bleed port and made my calipers leak.

I fixed it by running them through a thread die and then putting some fresh thread sealer on there. The thread sealer is not for sealing the brake pressure in, it's only for keeping air from being drawn in while bleeding. Note that the oem bleed valves don't need thread sealer.

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Well how about that! Thanks...

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I did not know there was pipe bending involved in keeping the stock LT1 cat back. Hmm… Makes the money I spent on the custom setup look a little better.

By the way to get the quote up you hit reply in the message you want to reply to then you have to hit quote at the bottom of the text box that comes up for you to reply in.

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dude... people in glass houses...

I am glad you are all so understanding!

These are rather minor teething issues... we will be fine in a few more days!

New site is super !!!

Very creative, I like it.

The concept is simple when you strip it down, but I can't say I've seen it before.

impressive.

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I hit one of the stops on my lift! Pulled in and wack! some much for time #1001

I am sure the Bosch site would have the xref you need.

also check NGK O2 sensors, I feel they are mucho better.

Yea... need to check the classifieds... hm...

Welcome aboard!!!

Great to have you!

right now, there is an inactivity timer... we need to do something with that.

We're working on it. The cookie isn't working quite right.

The cold side of the radiator is much colder than you think, probably 30-40F lower than the tstat temp.

But.. it's actually important to keep that in the loop since it helps bring the tranny fluid up to temp.

I would put it in series. The temp difference of the radiator cooler isn't as much, but liquid/liquid coolers are VERY efficient, which is why they're so small.

I suppose you're putting in a guage too right? Maybe you should do that first and see where its at before doing anything else. They also have billet aluminum heat sink pans, not sure how much that'd help, but Nissan did just that to cure the overheating on their Titan pickup rearends.

I was trying to find a tranny cooler writeup at bowtieoverdrives.com that goes into the details but I can't find it.

2-4 servo on the side just above the pan. Kind of a double step cover about 3" in diameter. They very rarely are any problem. Shifter shaft seal- they do leak- easy fix. And the vent- it's on top of the tranny and will blow juice if the trans gets too hot or builds too much pressure.

"Welcome to the Real World"
Morphues to Neo, "The Matrix, 1999"

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First of all, I might be stupid but I'm not stupid enough to bet my car on a race. The hot rod shop I work for now has appeared before on "Pinks All Out" and will again. When they do, I'll be there if my schedule allows. But I doubt the experience will change my opinion of the egotistical f**k-stick who hosts the show, or the very concept. I despise "reality" TV in general as the lowest form of entertainment currently available on the boob-tube. I'll support the shop though, in this or any efforts, and we'll strive to do our best. But if I had my druthers, we'd race elsewhere in a more conventional outlet. I can certainly understand my boss' interest in this as a way to gain exposure though, and I have no problem with it from that point of view. I've only been there for a few weeks and so was not involved in their previous effort with a Pontiac powered, early Ford Econoline pick-up. It's a neat and fun little vehicle but would require some serious chassis work to be a serious and consistent drag car. This time we're going to be building a '64 Rambler with an LS Chevy power-plant. I'm really looking forward to sinking my teeth into this project. I don't have to explain to anyone here what an awesome engine this is to work with. And I will do everything I can to insure that the chassis is up to the task. My boss is a sharp guy and we don't make any decisions w/o consulting each other. I've yet to find anything of consequence that we don't see eye to eye on.

I've see a few posts on this so far, and I believe they will be looking into that as soon as they get some of the more important issues worked out.

Yo! there

is there a setting or something that will allow me to stay logged in so I don't have to log in every time I come here.

Damitohell!!! What didja hit?
Have you thought about hood vents? Look cool, dunno if they work.

Ok guys, the instructions I listed worked just fine on the old site. They also work on most other forums.

I have figured out why it does not work here!

If you follow my instructions the IMG tags are in capital letters. For whatever reason, right now on this site it will not work if the img code is in caps.

Use the same thing, but make sure the "img tags" are in lower case, and the picture will display correctly.

In upper case it looks like this: Notice the pic did not dispaly
[IMG]http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/RollaMo-LT4/Picture5.png[/IMG]


Now, change the "[IMG]" and "[/IMG]" to lower case:
And the below picture works just fine.



You can also do as Livin_the_dream mentioned. Use the HTML code line instead of the IMG code line. Just be aware that not all sites work the same way. On some sites the HTML code will just display a link. It looks like this one is actually set up to use the HTML code and format the picture for you.

Lets see what our trans guys here think. I'm adding a small external trans cooler to my truck. The truck is a 99 GMC sonoma 4.3L ext cab 2wd with the 4l60. I use the truck to tow the vette a couple times a year and believe it or not it does very very well. I also use an alum featherlite trailer with elec brakes. My question is placement in the loop. I can put it in series with the stock cooler in the radiator before the stock cooler or after, or I can bypass the radiator all-together.
1: Bypass the radiator. This would eliminate the heating effect from the stock cooler but in cold weather would it cause other issues like the trans not getting up to temp quickly enough or at all causeing it to not shift into OD.
2: Post radiator, see above. Would it cause the same problems in very cold weather?
3: Pre radiator. Would this even drop it down enough to be effective? I'd think that it would cool the fluid but the fluid would then pass through the stock radiator cooler and thus reheat it.


Discuss

And I'm sure in its own way its fun to drive as well

Put my 88 coupe on the lift and noticed some leaking around the pan on the tranny. Besides the gasket and filter any thing else I should look into? It also seems to be leaking around the output shaft however it could be blow back from the pan?

You need to copy the "HTML Code" from photobucket and paste it to the message like this
test

this has worked everytime
Kevin

closeup of damage


condenser from the front

I will forward this up to the big dogs

You can always take them to Staples and get a $3.00 credit/ cartridge.

Is there a test for brake booster unit before I buy an rebuilt unit. have not found a rebuild kit yet. Any help Craig.

I finally figured out why I never receive email notifications from the guru site. I've never updated my email from when I first joined, which is long out dated. I go to edit my account and I can change everything but my email addy.

Any insight would be great ,

Patsfan

Thanks Bastet, I've reposted the ad in the now functioning F/S section.

If I were to buy adjustable shocks for the front (Koni's or QA1's) would I set them on full hard or full soft for drag racing to get the weight to transfer. I never understood if they should be set to "hard ride" to push the front up, or if they should be set to "soft ride" to let the shocks stretch out easier and let the front lift. Please teach me.

Does anyone make Tri-Y headers for the LT1? These seem to be the best choice for street driven cars (am I right? Considering the low end torque they produce, but might sacrifice some at the top end.) I think I saw some somewhere recently, I think Case has them on his 94 but they were Aussie made IIRC.

I figured it was just a temporary glitch. Thanks a bunch for the quick responses, especially knowing how busy you all must be at this particular time.

...then please post it in the Chat section of the appropriate forum for the time being.

Also put a "WTB or F/S" in your subject title.

We are switching over to a new classifieds format, and it isn't fully functional yet. Hang tight peeps.

I used a Dremel tool with a little fiber saw on the tip. Sliced the tabs right off. I'm not sure breaking them off is a good idea, as magnesium breaks easily.

The issue has been adressed and is in the process of getting fixed. Hang in there, we'll get'r done yet

Thanks! I am going to be pushing my packet forward in the next month. I should have everything resolved by then if not I will have to wait until I get my clearance back.

When trying to post an ad in F/S-non-automotive, I get a pop-up that states "post ad type." I'm in the area that I want to post the ad in and see no reference to this on the page for creating the ad.
Also, although I've selected an option to create and recognize a cookie for one year, I still have to log in again after awhile. Any love on these matters? Thanks.