Sounds like you are about ready to tear up the pavement. I wish I was, going to be tell at least April befoere the weather will be right to get it out of the garage but I Plan to have it ready to go as soon as I can.

How do you tell its hitting? Just try and slip it on and if it does not seat cut some more off or do you have to bolt it down and crank the motor over? I may try leaving just a little nub and see what happens unless someone talks me out of it.

Quote:
yup gualifying is only a small part of the pie! What counts is where you finish!
you can only use a driver 9 times and get points. That gives us a challenge. Seems like you can swap out drivers every week . The 2nd half the season should be interesting!

The feb 30th??

Couldnt agree with you more 94ZO7, i miss my LG F700Pro 17"CRT as well, it would do 1920x1440 res, and although everything looked small at that, you can change the size of the text anyway. Nothing could touch it for clarity.

The eventual death to the LG was a leaking capacitor, which was causing the V-hold to fold the bottom of the screen image up on itself. Even with all the burned in images on it, it still looked better than any LCD ive ever seen, and a mate of mine has a 30" LCD with a 2ms refresh.

So now ive got an LG L1953 LCD and although its very crisp and clear, it will only go to 1280x1024, which is quite poor considering its 3 viewable inches bigger.
Quote:
Which BattleField do you play? i ocationally run servers from here for 1942 and some of its mods.
Quote:
What sort of projector have you got? Mustve cost a fortune back 14 yrs ago!!! Can buy a brand new one for under $600 AUD here now, but id be suprized if itd go for 2 years let alone 14.

Quote:

No picture - I got on a roll and installed both covers, got the new injectors in and the fuel rails in place. Now I'm buttoning up all the electricals and little stuff.

some threads on CF had people only removing a portion of the tab, for just the reason you want to. It is just I have no idea how much is enough.
I doubt very much my engine will ever see a stamped steel rocker ever again. In the old days small block chevies I had, I don't remember no drip tabs on those stamped steel covers.

Just another Hollywood moron to be ignored. It comes as no surprise when they throw their support behind a worthless piece of low-life trash like that bitch. I have much stronger and more appropriate words for her too, but I won't use them here.
I'm sure that Rosie the wart hog, the diva Barbara S., Martin Sheen and the rest of the cast of thousands (of idiots) out there all love her too.

Summit has them. These are offset by [color=blue:8693b3f7fa].015"[/color:8693b3f7fa], and these are offset by [color=blue:8693b3f7fa].030"[/color:8693b3f7fa].

RACE ON!!!

I picked up 1 point and dropped like a rock on my standings
but my race drivers will make up for my qualifying shortcomings
come raceday. I pretty much revamped my team since you can
only have the same driver so many times as race picks. My choices
are spread pretty much throughout the feild.

Quote:

Did you happen to get a picture?


I was hoping to leave a bit of tab left in case I ever end up going back to the stock setup. I guess I could just get some 1.5 roller rockers to put in there and leave the stamped ones out.

It should all just be 1/8" pipe fittings. Substitute parts ought to be available at any hardware store.

RACE ON!!!

Quote:

You're squashing the battery.
Open the hood, then get a compact unit.

:thumbleft:

Ah, so I made it to the Feb. 30th meeting.

Second, and last.

:thumbleft:

Hmmmm. Not that it matters........ :shaking:

bad battery cables can really lead to some wacky problems...

looks GREAT! What pads did you opt on?

/sing!

I'm so glad we had this time together,
Just to have a laugh, or sing a song.
Seems we just got started and before you know it
Comes the time we have to say, 'So long.'

Ya! I am so happy people are as excited about this as we are!

And don't believe for an instant that C4 Guru is totally dead... you will all see tomorrow exactly what I mean!

Looking forward to the change!



Matthew

Bring on the CorvetteGurus!!

I just removed mine from my valve covers not 1 hour ago.
I used a stout pair of plyers to break them off.

I also had to use a dremel with a barrel sander on it to relief those walls of the breather baffles because the fulcrum of the rocker was just touching them a bit.

The tabs snap off easily.

Travis, since you have LT1 covers you won't be doubling gaskets or anything. L98 guys and LT1 guys do slightly different things on vlave covers. Install your rubber gasket dry on the LT1

UPDATE: I took your advice, Case, and tried Datamaster. It works better. It is showing the 1-2 shift at 6150 and the 2-3 shift at 6000. That part is right where I want it. I am picking up detonation, bad enough to hear it, from 5500 to 6000 rpms. I talked to Alvin and he basically said when I get a couple good full throttle runs and a nice long normal drive datalogged and saved to send them to him. He is going to go over the tune. He had me set the base timing at 6 degrees originally and he had the tune done for a 100 shot. I had the base timing set at 4 degrees and still got audible detonation at 5500, and it gets some spark retard and knock counts if I am driving and floor it and let it downshift itself. I'm not sure there is a way to get rid of that. Doesn't happen if I launch and make a full throttle run from a stop. I told Alvin when get the datalogs and send them to him I want him to tune for no nitrous. I'm going to add a timing retard box to use when I spray.

I was looking into doing my own tuning but I don't want to invest in a chip burner and chip eraser. I think Alvin will get it spot on with a couple of tries. Datamaster should give him the feedback he needs.

The C4guru is dead! Long live the C4guru!

Looking forward to seeing the new place

Hell Yeah!!!!!

Bring it on!

This is gonna be good.....

This is the officially unofficial say good bye to C4guru,
say hello to CorvetteGuru, say whats on your mind
free-for-all thread.
So much has been started here by a fine group of
guys and gals. A wealth of knowledge and support is
here at our fingertips. As the saga continues and new
members of all generations join, new gurus will come
forward to help the wayward find their way.
Looking forward to a new beginning (another new beginning)
and visits from old and new friends.
Good Bye C4guru Hello CorvetteGuru

Let the party and free-for-all begin. :tard]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/candythepig/party.gif[/img]

Yes those are the drip tabs. i did the same thing!

I used a grinder(somewhat) and I took them all off. they seem to work great but i feel like the car isn't to its fullest potential at high RPM but it doesnt seem to hit. but then again im paranoid so well see.

go ahead and take them off and i actually had double gaskets and they fit just fine. i used 1.6 LT4 roller rockers from GMPP

Those look sharp!!

I suppose you could try, but they cut easy and you would take a chance that they would hit. With roller rockers they are not used anymore.

I got one at the junkyard a few years back for 35.00 I dont believe there is any way to repair it.

Any ideas on how this could be fixed or a place to get a new one without paying an arm and leg?

Welcome aboard

I just want to make sure before I start cutting, these are the drip tabs right?



With GMPP 1.6 rockers do they have to be removed completely or could I get away with cutting maybe 1/4 inch off?

I've used old cartridges before and when they didn't work (because ink dried at the surface) I took a wet paper towel and cleaned them off and they worked ok.

Can't hurt to try, right?

Matthew

Well, as I stated before, I'd take pics when I did my upgrade, so here they are. Whole procedure was pretty straightforward, took a couple hours total (which included trip to the parts store). If I had to do it over, I could do it much quicker.

Calipers (painted black)


Brackets


Rotor size difference (c4 on left, c5 on right)


Caliper and rotor removed (time to clean up the hub before reinstalling the new rotor)


Bracket installed


C5 caliper, abutment bracket, pads put together before installing


Altogether before hooking up brake lines


Bleeding the brake lines


I guess it's time to bleed the back ones, too, huh?


Peek-a-boo


Sorry there are so many pics, but I thought some other people might like to see some of the steps. Feel free to ask any questions.

Matthew

I cut all my drip tabs on the inside of my factory LT1 valve covers, but on the passenger side where the breather tube enters the VC, the baffle walls are rubbing on the fulcrums of the rockers a bit.
Anyone clearance these as well?

Hi

Nice lookin' rides...

Gary

hello

They've been working on this for a while. I'd like to see a decent price to see if it's worthwhile.

Matthew

What took you so long?

Welcome!

Welcome!

I cleaned all the battery connectors today - they weren't horrible, but they weren't great either. It started right up afterwards ... we'll see wether the behavior gets consistently better.

I'm not going to invest a whole bunch of time into it - here's a couple pics with one polished (maybe an hour's worth of work) and the other one not. Good enough for gubbermint work:

http://bradprestonmusic.com/Photos/96Vette/images/Headers1.jpg
http://bradprestonmusic.com/Photos/96Vette/images/Headers2.jpg

24 hours and 13 minutes to go!!!!!

My car is 16 years old... but my computer is about 1 year old... it's a bitsa, tho, the case is 6 or 7 years old! But when I upgraded, I upgraded everything inside. New MB, CPU, memory and powersupply. I needed more wattage.

The last monitor I had was a ViewSonic, and the highvoltage died after 3 + years. No where near as long lived as my old AVI Microscan... it lasted 6 years!

My current monitor is a ViewSonic 22" wide screen LCD... and I LOVE IT!

Oh, my, my camera... sure the D200 is new, but the rest of my Nikon equipment is anywhere from 10 to 40 years old! And our Jeep is 15 years old!

My old stereo is 27 years old... and my "new" stereo is about 8 years old.

Interesting.

It really is a neat idea... heat is cut down a lot, I would think.

The only thing is pluming the compressed air forward...

^^ I didn't either.

Jeez, just checked it, I had to put on my Coke Bottle Readers to see the thing. No wonder I never saw it.

Pianoguy, unless you are only going to show the car and not run it, I
respectfully suggest that you save your energy for other projects.

The StainlessWorks headers will develop a bit of patina in time. I expect
this will happen regardless whether they've been left with their mill finish
appearance or polished.

What you won't have to worry about for a while is rust.

.

In an non injury accident you have 7 days to file the report to the Popo. If the guy will give you his insurance then you can file a claim with your insurance company and let them handle it. I am not sure if you have to comprehensive for that or not. Since you weren't moving at the time....Don't say you were sitting in the truck to anyone...say you were standing outside and witnessed......Since you were sitting still, their insurance needs to pay. And I don't care what the owner of the company tells you at this point. Get their insurance company and file a claim.

The fact that the truck kept going and you had to chase them down would be enough for me to call the police at the scene.

THE ONE time I decided to "Be nice" was the ONE TIME I got screwed and had to fix my car myself. That happened to be the first time I ever had been in an accident of any kind. My poor RX7 got hit three times in 15 months. My first three accidents...anyway.

Dude... you really need to get rid of that truck, it's nothing but a dent magnet...