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RE:Tata Nano
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Jesus H. Christ, that thing is beyond fugly. If they ever import it here though, it'll be popular with the same crowd that buys VW beetles, Scion XBs and other such ghey vehicles.

Posted on: 2008/1/12 0:22
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RE:C4 side glass
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Quote:
Yeah, I know- for some reason I just hate working on the doors, so I'll do the entire project all at once. Probably doesn't make any sense...
Waiting to install the seals and felts, waiting for the glass, doesn't make sense from a sequence view point, but I hate working on the doors, too. I know EXACTLY what you mean. I have to remove the dark tint from the glass, order the outer window seals, round up some late model scissors style window regulators, and maybe new interior door trim panels, and hopefully do them all at one time.

RACE ON!!!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 23:59
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RE:Why I do my own work........
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That's what I'm going to do. I have the red here, I'll use that. Use what ya got.

The red will work fine.

Since I tapped them and the holes at 8MM are.002 larger, a little locktite in the threads wouldn't hurt. I just don't want them to come loose.


The red will be okay if you don't put too much on. That stuff's pretty aggressive though. I just don't want to see you have problems when it's time to take them loose again.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 23:57
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RE:Why I do my own work........
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Quote:
Quote:


I'm going to put some RTV on the threads and that should solve that. This application is one of torque, so it will torque down the way it is.


Actually why don't you just put Loctite on them? That'll hold them better than RTV and will still seal them too, if that's a concern. I'd go with the blue, #242 I believe. The red (#271) might be a bit much in this case. It's generally for larger bolts and higher torques.


That's what I'm going to do. I have the red here, I'll use that. Use what ya got.

The red will work fine.

Since I tapped them and the holes at 8MM are.002 larger, a little locktite in the threads wouldn't hurt. I just don't want them to come loose.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 23:48
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RE:Why I do my own work........
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Why do need to seal the threads? The bolts aren't a sealing surface if they have gasketing all the way around the hole. You said they're blind holes.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 23:42
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Hey wilsonbh!
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That avatar you're using I use on a couple of other forums. I want royalties! That's all.......... :angry1:

Posted on: 2008/1/11 23:38
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RE:Why I do my own work........
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Quote:


I'm going to put some RTV on the threads and that should solve that. This application is one of torque, so it will torque down the way it is.


Actually why don't you just put Loctite on them? That'll hold them better than RTV and will still seal them too, if that's a concern. I'd go with the blue, #242 I believe. The red (#271) might be a bit much in this case. It's generally for larger bolts and higher torques.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 23:31
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RE:Frame and suspension CAD files
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Posted on: 2008/1/11 23:21
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RE:Frame and suspension CAD files
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Posted on: 2008/1/11 23:18
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RE:84 'Vette milage
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the odo on 84 to 89 vettes is not tamper proof. it is very vulnerable to modification.

it could have been replace... or just misread.

check the carfax for 4 years ago... see what the mileage was then.



That is true!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 23:08
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RE:Best way to flush coolant system?
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Increasing flow helps, but you quickly hit the point of diminishing returns.

Cooling capacity of the radiator is determined by LMTD. Log mean temperature difference. Basically, the average temperature difference between the air and the coolant. Moving both through there infinitely fast means the coolant and air temps don't approach one another. Moving them at a snails pace allows them to equalize in temperature at the outlet. Heat transfer is maximized if the temperatures are kept as far apart as possible.

Here's a generic "coil characterstic curve" from the HVAC industry. This is for a multipass tube/fin heat exchanger with constant airflow. The curve for our radiators will be even steeper. What it shows is that you've almost maximized your heat transfer with only 50% of the water flow.

The engine block is also a heat exchanger, probably closer to this curve than the radiator.


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Posted on: 2008/1/11 23:03
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RE:Best way to flush coolant system?
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For future reference when there are differences of opinion

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Posted on: 2008/1/11 23:02
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From the Fuji HVLP Spray Gun Manufacturer Website
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WHAT IS HVLP ? FACT & FICTION

To qualify under the term HVLP, air flowing through the Aircap must not exceed 10 psi. Generally speaking, HVLP turbine motors produce over 100 CFM (cubic feet per minute) at 3 - 8 psi. (pounds per square inch) depending on the model of motor. Compare this to a typical high pressure set-up where 45 - 60 psi at 8 CFM would be the norm. HVLP turbines supply air at a much lower velocity producing a softer, easier to control spray. This allows you to lay the paint on gently and not blast it on. Benefits of HVLP include less overspray and less paint wastage. Transfer efficiency can be as high as 85%. The quality of finish is identical to the best high pressure spray finishes.

In some areas of the USA. (Southern California for instance) high pressure spray systems are prohibited in certain industries. All HVLP turbine systems, (by any maker) automatically comply with all known regulations in North America."

[url]http://www.fujispray.com/what_is_hvlp.html[/url]

Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:58
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RE:Greetings from the Great White North (aka Canada)
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I waited over 20 years, from the first time I saw a C4. I hope you are as pleased with yours as I am with mine.

Congrats, and welcome to the family!

We need pix, of course.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:57
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RE:hi all
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Mmmmmm. Monkey torture. Good times....

Welcome!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:55
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work?
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Quote:
How interesting.

So these newer guns are only spraying at 10psi??

why then are so many people saying you have to have an ~8cfm capacity compressor??

If a gun is only using 10psi then surely a smaller compressor could keep up with it.........correct?

Would you attribute the "Fisheye" effect to water rather than dust?



The HVLP gun needs a lot more than 8 cfm of air -- but it needs it at 10 psi (or less). My gun operates at approximately 6 psi.

For compressors, ignoring all the losses you have in the pressure reducer, water separator and pipes, pressure times cfm is a constant. If you have a compressor that is rated at 8 cfm @ 90 psi, then that compressor can provide an output of 80 cfm at 9 psi. (8x90 = 80x9). Just like a high pressure gun, you need to look at both pressure and volume to determine what you need for a source. In short, a small compressor is totally inadequate for a production-size HVLP gun.

Fisheye is normally caused by silicone contamination.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:54
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RE:Best way to flush coolant system?
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well, you have to have a water pump.

But then you continue with things that prove my point. Once a certain level of temp is reached, the only thing that cools the system down is airflow over the radiator.

By increasing fan speed
By fans turning on

By increasing coolant flow the radiator is only going to remove "X" amount of energy with stagnant air.


Do you agree that you need both? If not we have nothing to argue about.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:46
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RE:Best way to flush coolant system?
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well, you have to have a water pump.

But then you continue with things that prove my point. Once a certain level of temp is reached, the only thing that cools the system down is airflow over the radiator.

By increasing fan speed
By fans turning on

By increasing coolant flow the radiator is only going to remove "X" amount of energy with stagnant air.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:35
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RE:ARCADE ACTION
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No secrets shared here. :silent:

Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:32
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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The weather here is really nice also. Supposed to be sunny and mid 70s all weekend.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:07
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RE:Dr Don Modifications to the stock BOSE Head Unit
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If you're going to be using an mp3 player then why bother with making the unit CDR compatible? It's a snap to rip the tunes off your CDs and convert them to mp3s. I can fit 400 songs on a 1GB iPod shuffle. And as for disabling the cassette, why not get the $15 cassette adapter that allows you to play mp3 players through the existing Bose system? That's what I've done and honestly, if you're already OK with the Bose sound, then you'll be fine with this setup. Personally, I think it sounds great and the $285 you save could be spent on something to make the car go faster... :thumbright:

Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:03
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1996 LT4 coupe black/black
160 Tstat, K&N, Hypertech PPIII (for the fans), CAGS, Nitto 555 EPs, 275/315s, Chrome A-molds, a little tint and some black-outs

AIRFOIL FREE!
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RE:Best way to flush coolant system?
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[quote="jhammons01"]Anyone mentioning better coolant flow equating to better cooling is off the mark entirely.
The Heat exchange occurs in the radiator and the ability of the radiator to dissipate the energy of the water flowing through it.

To prove my point, go out and get in a traffic jam, watch as the heat builds in the coolant system and then when it is good and hot, rev your motor and see if the added coolant flow cools the system........it won't

The only thing that will change the temperature is airflow over the radiator....not coolant passing through the inside. The slightest forward movement will bring the temps down almost 10ร‚ยฐ.

If this were true, why do we have a water pump?

Airflow through the radiator is very important. Airflow plus coolant flow equals good cooling. Our aurguement was just about coolant flow. We all know when things get hot the ECM turns on the fans and things cool down. Reving your engine only changes the flow unless you have an electric pump. On other older cars, reving the engine also increased the fan speed. You can turn the fans on by using the A/C or modify your fans so you can turn them on manually. I've been in stop and go traffic in 100 plus temps and with my fans on (manually) and my electric pump running, I've never gone over 210 degrees. I just have to remember to get out of the manual mode or I'll get a "Check engine soon" when I go over 35mph. I've been using distilled water and the green stuff since I installed the electric pump.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:00
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RE:Bleeding brakes
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[quote="CentralCoaster"]Quote:

I won't kill you for disagreeing with me though.

that is a little extreme for us daily drivers.

OK for all out there that drives their car around town and to and from work......

I could see getting a device if I had to bleed brakes on that frequency. But for most of us that will have to do this once every two years or so......

oh and believe me 14 year olds are perfectly capable of pushing a brake pedal.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 21:53
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RE:Why I do my own work........
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NO WAY!! Are u yanks going GAY! OOPS gone GAY that was 20 yrs ago! Say it isn,t so!! R U sure Case I,ve been play,n round in the door of my Z51 an it,s all A/F??


I've got some metric and standard bolts side by side on my vette, came from the factory that way.

The older designed parts, engine block, trans, rear end, rear end, etc, that predate the C4, use standard bolts, everything else is metric.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 21:42
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RE:Bleeding brakes
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20 minutes.....tops and the only special thing needed is a Coke bottle and a piece of tubing. The uncomfortable thing will be listening to your wife or son repeating "are we finished yet?"


Ok, now hit the race track every month, flush out your brake fluid every other month, and do it on a car with 6 or 8 bleeder ports.

Still convinced spending an extra minute and $20-$30 once, to put speedbleeders in during a bleed, isn't worth it? Cheaper than a 14 yr old. :thumbright:

It's worth it to me. I won't kill you for disagreeing with me though.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 21:30
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RE:Best way to flush coolant system?
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[quote="Qack"]Quote:

Not sure constant speed is the "ideal" solution. What I'd want is a coolant pump that would pump just as much water as needed to effectively cool the motor and no more -- and no less. That would be ideal.


Yes, but a constant speed pump is closer to ideal than the 500-5000 rpm pump it comes with. Obviously, the ideal is somewhere in between.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 21:24
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work?
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How interesting.

So these newer guns are only spraying at 10psi??

why then are so many people saying you have to have an ~8cfm capacity compressor??

If a gun is only using 10psi then surely a smaller compressor could keep up with it.........correct?

Would you attribute the "Fisheye" effect to water rather than dust?

Another thing that I could never get a straight answer is.......if you look at a C4, it is really chopped up into sections. If you had a way of mixing the exact color over and over, would you really need a "Big Gun" to spray large areas??? The Clamshell is the only thing that bothers me it is a huge area...but the rest of the car is small touch up style areas with lots of breaks for masking off. If you are not changing colors and only restoring the paint, could you not paint section at a time???

Posted on: 2008/1/11 21:24
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RE:1985 EPROM Tune
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Thanks for the information - I looked in my various fuel injection books back when you made you first post and couldn't find a specific discussion. I think I may need some tuning references ...

Posted on: 2008/1/11 21:20
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RE:1985 EPROM Tune
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As I have found. Thought I would post for others that may be interested.
On the 85 the only changes that can be made are at WOT and Idle. In closed loop it tries for 14.7 to 1. Can be changed somewhat with fuel pressure adjustment.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 21:09
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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TGIF!! Hopefully I will get my switch tomorrow and I can change that on the vette. I might do the brakes today since its really nice outside. Maybe work on the arcade some more this weekend.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 20:36
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RE:Bought the AFS wheels.
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I have seen other scenes from The Holy Grail done with Legos. That's amazing! Almost like Legos were MADE for recreating the movie! Outstanding! Thanks for posting that.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 20:30
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work?
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What is an HVLP gun?

What is a Turbine Gun?

And if we get down to 4. CFM level what now?


HVLP stands for High Velocity Low Pressure, and it was a new technology about twenty years ago, forced by EPA emissions requirements. The essential benefit of HVLP over High Pressure is overspray.

High Pressure guns typically result in about 20% of the paint going on the object being painted and about 80% becoming overspray. With HVLP, the numbers are just about reversed -- there is typically less than 20% overspray -- I forget the requirement but it's quite low -- which means over 80% goes on the object to be sprayed. Thus, lower pollution by a lot.

Air source. If you use a compressor, you are pressurizing air to around 100 psi, then reducing it down to about 30-40 psi for a High Pressure gun and to below 10 psi for an HVLP gun. As the air is initially compressed, it heats up. It then gives up some of its heat as it sits in the tank and hoses. When you use the air for your spray gun, you reduce the pressure; thus, the air gets colder -- quite a bit colder than when it started in the first place. Thus, the moisture in the air comes out as water droplets. You need to have a really good moisture trap to get rid of the water. Otherwise it will ruin a perfectly good paint job. Just ask anyone -- like me -- who was bit by that problem. It's really frustrating.

With a turbine compressor as a source, you only compress the air -- typically to about 5 - 7 psi. Thus the "Low Pressure" part of HVLP. It makes up for the low pressure by using high volumes of air. A turbine compressor is ideal for that type of air source. You never store the air, so it doesn't have much opportunity to cool down before you use it so there isn't much of a moisture problem.

There really isn't a turbine gun, just a turbine compressor.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 20:16
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RE:Why I do my own work........
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I always say I can F it up as good as any mechanic can




If that's you, what the !@#$% can I say?

Posted on: 2008/1/11 20:10
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Quote:
I hope you're right about the Cowboys...

Chargers over the Colts? Maybe...


I know. I'm a Patriots fan and would rather have them play San Diego for the AFC title. :thumbright:

Posted on: 2008/1/11 20:04
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RE:Bleeding brakes
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Speedbleeders here. I'm not letting any 14 year old in my car.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 19:56
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Well then, I guess that I'll have to be the one here to root for the Cowboys. There is a big marathon being run here Sunday, so I can't get out of my neighborhood. Will be watching football, consuming mass quantities of booze, and maybe replace my brake booster (again).

Posted on: 2008/1/11 19:52
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Quote:
It's Football playoffs weekend.

Giants over the Cowboys
Patriots beat the Jags
Green Bay over Seattle
Charger womp the Colts. :tongue:


Chargers won't overtake the Colts, The others are pretty good, as much as i dislike both the Giants and Cowboys, I'd prefer the G-men to win.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 19:44
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work?
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Another interesting thread - keep talking guys!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 19:27
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RE:Bought the AFS wheels.
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I'll be interested in how they work out for you.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 19:24
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work?
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What is an HVLP gun?

What is a Turbine Gun?

And if we get down to 4. CFM level what now?

Posted on: 2008/1/11 19:22
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work?
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Quote:
... in the shop I'm going to build.


Now I'm jealous!

Back to CentralCoaster -- another thing about HVLP guns. If you use them with compressed air, you still need to be concerned about moisture in the air supply. If you go with a turbine, moisture is normally not a problem.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 19:06
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Good mornin'!

Yay, Friday! I just finished watching Simon&Simon on Sleuth. Now some strange Goldie Hawn movie has started. Actually one that I haven't seen before.

Football sounds like a great weekend plan, and there's no way that I could ever root for the Cowboys.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 19:02
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RE:Bought the AFS wheels.
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Quote:
You make me sad!

I wave my private parts at thee!


And my response is contained herein:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFFeE7FbZms

(Silly English K-nig-it).

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:56
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RE:Bought the AFS wheels.
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You make me sad!

I wave my private parts at thee!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:51
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RE:Bought the AFS wheels.
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Quote:
I can do them for free in crayon. Felt tip marker costs extra.


I didn't think you were allowed to mess with anything other than finger paint?!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:49
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Re: Bought the AFS wheels.
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Quote:
Seems pretty reasonable in $$. (About $200.00 less than I paid for my KS EVO-Zs from AFS).

Hope they meet your expectations.
:thumbleft:


I researched the Kumhos and they seem like they should be ok. They don't go well in snow... go figure.
Tirerack had the tire rated 17 out of 44 tires. It's only a "W" rated, but I don't think I'll be going over 168mph! They dinged it hardest for treadwear and ride comfort.

I think they will fit my needs, but there is only one way to find out... put them on and drive!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:47
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RE:Bought the AFS wheels.
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Colored sharpies!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:41
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\´92 Corvette A4 Bored and Stroked 383 LT1 Cammed 468rwhp
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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I hope you're right about the Cowboys...

Chargers over the Colts? Maybe...

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:39
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RE:Bought the AFS wheels.
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I can do them for free in crayon. Felt tip marker costs extra.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:37
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Re: Bought the AFS wheels.
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Quote:
4 Kumho tires, 275/40/17, 4 17x9.5 ZR1 chrome ZR1s with early C4 offset. Total price $970, shipped.

I'm stoked. Pics will follow as soon as possible.


Seems pretty reasonable in $$. (About $200.00 less than I paid for my KS EVO-Zs from AFS).

Hope they meet your expectations.
:thumbleft:

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:35
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