thanks that is just was what i was looking for. i just remembered i have these rhino ramps-- would they work?

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thanks for the replies! i already have a lifetime alignment with them, so i'm stuck with them. they were able to do it before, but i had different guys this time. just wanted to know if anyone knew the procedure with the wood pieces

took the car for an alignment last Sunday but they couldn't get the car up the ramp.they were willing to try, but it was scraping the front spoiler almost right away and they didn't want to risk it. the last time they used some wooden blocks, but the crew there didn't know about them and i couldn't remember how they did it. any info on size or shape of the wood so i can bring it with me next time?

thanks!

checked the battery--it was low- 25% according to the charger but still read 12v. recharged it and no more light!

thanks for the replies!

i will try datalogging it and also check the battery and alt.

after driving for 5 minutes, light comes on and stays on. car seemed to run the same.got home to check the codes w/ paperclip but only got code 12
computer is from '89

any ideas?


thanks in advance!

choice 1 (install as is) 69 deg abdc
choice 2 (2 deg retarded) 71 deg abdc

cam is comp cams 280xfi 280/288 113/109 230/236 @.05
heads afr180 eliminator 57cc
pistons srp 5cc flat top

finally have everything back and ready to assemble for my 383 miniram build. my question is the final DCR. i was shooting for 9.

my options:

1. assemble as is: static = 11.96 DCR = 9.21
2. retard the cam 2 degrees so it is 2 deg advanced (cam is ground w/ 4degrees advance): static= 11.96 DCR = 9.05
3. thick head gasket (.050"): static 11.69 DCR = 9.01


i'm leaning toward choice #2

what do you recommend?
i will use 93 octane, street only

thanks in advance!

thanks for the replies! i think i will unbolt everything and try again. is it possible to install the transmission dowel pins wrong? maybe they are bent? i just tapped them in w/a small hammer into the block. maybe they are not out far enough

block is back from rebuilders and back in the car. i have the 700r4 bolted up to the block with the 6 bolts and the 3 flexplate bolts connected to the crankshaft. i noticed that the trans is slightly to the passenger side by about 1/32"
it's on the dowel pins. didn't notice how it was before i removed the engine.

my question is does it matter if the outside shell of the trans is a little off as along as everything bolts up ok and it's on the dowel pins? or do i need offset dowel pins, or is that only needed for manual transmissions.

thanks in advance!

new engine: 383

scat 9000 cast crankshaft 3.75"
scat 7/16" forged i-beam rods 6"
SRP forged flat top pistons 5cc
Comp Cams 280XFI HR13 retrofit hydraulic roller cam 280/288 113lsa
AFR 180 heads 58cc
TPIS Miniram 1204

thanks for the suggestions!
it's an auto, 105,000 miles
fuel lines were replaced from the filter w/AN braided stainless hose a few years ago when i put the miniram on. does that ever go bad?

thanks for the replies!
it's a retrofit roller cam. the guy at oreily's suggested mobil 1 synthetic plus lucas additive.
do you reuse the same oil filter after you change the oil at 20 min. or 100/500 miles? or is it a new filter each time?

engine is out and at the rebuilders. i now have great access to different areas under the hood. what are some things i should do/check/repair now that the engine is out of the way?

what do you guys usually use? how long before you change it?
thanks!

i'm considering these for my 383 build:
http://www.probeindustries.com/Chevy_ ... p_SRS_Pistons_p/14106.htm
they are lightweight at 343g. anyone use them?

thanks for the advice!
i think i may go for this kit:
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scatsr-chevysbcast.html
1-90455 with the 7/16 rod upgrade for an extra$79

so is there any reason to buy the kit balanced if i have to have it balanced again anyway?

http://www.adperformance.com/index.ph ... uct_info&products_id=1051

this is the kit i'm looking at for my winter 383 project

anyone ever used this kit before? any comments are appreciated.
thanks

the ex valve spring on #4 broke. the valve didn't drop down completely, only about 1/4 inch. retainer and keepers still on the valve.

leak down test shows same results as other pistons-all around 5%. i pulled the head today. no damage as far as i can tell without some more cleaning. the valve did touch the cylinder and wore away some of the buildup of grime, and you can see where there was contact.

i still need to remove the broken spring and valve and clean it up. the pistons are forged? its an 85.

it was a comp beehive

i ordered a new nitrided series set #1519 from pac, yet to arrive

what should i do?

ill try to get pics tomorrow

thanks in advance

data log w/ extended 6400rpm bin, 6e wideband mask

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this link from thirdgen.org has some info, but i don't understand how to do it-i'm still new to tuning:

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/diy ... 400-rpm.html?ref=esp-link

i need a step by step on extending my spark table to 6400rpm. i am using tunerpro rt $6E 165ecm. thanks in advance!

i upgraded the ecm to a 165 in my '85. i think i may be getting some false knock counts. i still have the '85 knock sensor in there. is the '89 ks less sensitive? if you have upgraded to the 165 ecm, do you use the later knock sensor?

just got an autoprom and g2 adapter installed for the '85 and started playing with the parameters.

what do they mean? anyone know of a good explanation for all the parameters?

some are obvious-fan on temp, etc.

what does delta mean?

looking for a glossary of the parameters and what each one means and what happens when you increase or decrease the value.

thanks in advance!

i contacted him awhile ago. he doesn't do '85's.
i guess the 85 is unique.

i need a burner and an eraser that will work for the 1226870.
anyone have any good used equipment?

i have:

laptop
usb aldl cable
winaldl
tunerpro

i need:

chip burner
chip eraser
chips

anyone know any inexpensive brands or part#'s?

anything else i need?

i changed the weights in the governor--#5 and #6 from b+m kit, along with stock springs.
trans now shifts at 6000 1-2 and 6200 2-3

any tips to get the safety clip on?
it didn't have one originally.

also what did you use to pound the cap back on?

yes just the gear ratio
it runs pretty rich also.
i was told that the tune may not be the best quality.

its supposed to help w/ gear whine
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=44&pcid=4

3.75 gears are in!
my chip was done previously by jesse azzato
any suggestions?

i don't have a test light so ill have to get one and drive around and see.

i thought if there was 12v between a and f then the circuit and wiring was good, as this would be the only way that could happen.

ill try with the pin f and a different ground source and see if that does anything

tried the paperclip on a and f with koeo-no click.
so i guess its the solenoid

i checked the voltage between a and f with koeo--12v.
when brake peddle was pressed--0v.
so i guess the switch is ok.

ill try the jumper wire -paperclip- and see if that does anything.

if not, it must be the connector at the tcc solenoid or the solenoid itself-how hard is it to replace the solenoid?

the trans was rebuilt 2 years ago-is the tcc solenoid normally checked and replaced?

i dont have a test light, but i do have a multimeter, so ill check the voltage at the aldl and at the brake switch.
thanks for the suggestion!

the switch measures zero ohms when switched
zero ohms between pin a and f
no change in engine rpm when switch is thrown
cannot feel the converter locking up

i think it may be the brake switch w/ the vac line-it has 2 wires pink and purple

thanks for the response and the links!

i have a switch that connects the A pin - black w/white stripe,and the f pin - brown w/black stripe from the aldl.

i tested the switch, it's good.

but it doesn't do anything.

ill try replacing the stoplight switch and see if that does anything, as that's where the power into the solenoid flows through. maybe it's bad and the solenoid isn't getting power.

i would like to make a switch that would lock up my torque converter for freeway driving.
so far i have tried a switch that grounds the f pin on the diagnostic link, but i dont think it works.
any suggestions?

what did you end up doing?
the alt on my 85 may need to be replaced.
i was considering the cs144 upgrade.

i used about 1.5 qts. mobile one synthetic 75w-90 gear oil. it says it has limited slip additives already in it.
no extra friction modifier was added.

everything is back together. took it for a drive and all seems good. some whine but its hard to hear over the exhaust and stereo. they are richmond gears, 3.75 ratio.

do i need to break in the gears?-they are used.
clutches and bearings are new though.

well i gave up on the ujoints and let the shop do them for $20 each. i picked up everything today. final bill for r/p swap, new clutch install, and 6 ujoint r/r was like $560, with me supplying the parts.

tailhousing is off now and ill be swapping the drive gear to a 15t gray. the clip goes on the rear hole right?-towards the back of the car?

i found out that i broke a sway bar bracket on the rear drivers' side that i had to order. also the passenger side e-brake is also broken-ill repair this later on.

ill start reassembling stuff tommorow.

any loctitie on anything like tailhousing bolts, ujoint straps, c-beam bolts, etc?

also, ill be filling the diff while i have it out. how do i know when it's full?

i got the neapco brute force from advance auto.

i have a vise but they are so rusted. i ended up taking it out of the vise and setting it on the floor with a big socket on the bottom and a smaller one on top and beat on it w/a hammer.
it pushed through, but the cap is sill stuck.

i sprayed them good with pb blaster. ill try again in the morning.

differential is at the shop for ring and pinion swap and new clutches.

some questions:

my driveshaft and halfshafts are steel-- good or bad?

are the halfshafts balanced in some way--do they have to go back in a certain way?

any tips on removing the ujoints? they're rusted in there pretty good.

thanks in advance!

and how do i fix it?

im getting some off-idle backfiring through the intake and im trying to figure out what i can do to fix it.

thanks in advance

thanks for the responses!

well it looks like its the wrong one then.
ill have to get the 8642620.


it's not worth sending the other one back, so i'll compare them and see

i have no idea
haven't been to the track - yet

did i buy the right part?

i got my order from corvette central for my gear swap

i got: 45t driven gear gm#25513052 lt blue

15t drive gear gm#12507670 gray

setup is :

315/35/17 tires
3.75 rear gear
700r4

i wish i didn't have to, but i need to replace the 17t with a 15t gray drive gear. i suppose i can reuse the vss-it still works fine, its just broken where the pigtail connects. the connector is held on by a zip tie.

and i used your website to find out what gears to buy--thanks!

its probably something ill start in about a month, just trying to get all the parts ready.

i think ill do everything but the actual gear swap-ill just take the diff to the shop for that.

if its just unbolting stuff i think i can handle it.

it looks like a project i can handle.

will i need any special tools, like socket extensions, etc.?

don't have air tools, but thats ok.

i think i might get the black box speedo correcter to save time.

a new vss is like 70-90,gears-25,clip-5

black box -140, so im reaaly only saving like $30-$50

that way i wont have to pull the tailhousing, c beam, driveshaft etc, just the diff.


anyone use a black box (electronic ratio adapter)before?