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Don't I always? :thumbleft:

Welcome!

Notorious said it best! Cause this IS the best!

no clue... I don't have any experience installing these...

I guess it's gonna have to hang somewhere... If it was me, I would sit it in the console... versus drilling into the sides of the console.

Then again, you can't see the display.

This is why I went with the integrated solution with Sirius.

Good info, Andy. Also, since the charcoal cannister retains these vapors for introduction into the intake system, it actually will aid overall efficiency in a minuscule way. After all, it's the gasoline vapors that burn, not the liquid. This is why anything that aids in the atomization of the air/fuel mixture contributes to getting the most power and efficiency from a given quantity of fuel. For the sake of our air and your pocket book, please don't disable these systems, on a street car especially!

Good cruise today

Wires should not be too hard, just wondering about a clean and accessable way to mount it

I have a little experience in this area from my stock car racing days many years ago. First, you'll need to know the rules pertaining to this for your type of racing. Knowing you, I'm betting you already do. Would fabricating a new rear section make it easier to install the size cell you're interested in? Also, for safety and handling purposes, you'll want it as far forward as is practical. Also, to minimize handling changes as the fuel is used up, you'll also want it as low as is allowed. Once again I'm guessing you know all of this but I mention it for the benefit of interested readers. If you decide that starting from scratch will work best, I'd still rebuild it out of aluminum since minimizing weight behind the rear wheels is the ideal, without sacrificing adequate strength and safety of course.

Good question.

On pre-1996 cars, no effect. The vented cap, tho, will vent gas fumes into the air. Those fumes are bad for ground level smog. The unchained hydrocarbons interact with the air and the sun and make ozone. It's the #1 reason why during ozone alerts they ask folks to not pump gas during the daylight hours. When it's really hot and sunny, it makes matters worse.

The C4 has a vapour recovery system that consists of a coffee can full of activated charcoal. The gasses from the tank are passed through that and are vented accordingly. That's a simplified description, but it's the basic idea.

On 1996 and newer (OBDII) cars, the system is monitored for pressure loss. If the cap isn't on tight enough or otherwise fails, it will throw a code. Won't effect operation, but it will throw a code.

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Thanks for the reply Bogus. I guess I can buy that at a local auto parts store. Just curious, how does having the vented affect the car?

Thanks,

Keith

Welcome! And there's no need to look any longer, now that you've found the best one!

Hello everyone.

just registered and it's good see some recognizable names. Always looking for more vette sites.

see everyone around..

:thumbleft:

vettef6!!!! if you do things right you won't be awake in the daytime????
No but seriously, you can rent Jeeps, heilocopter rides, Grand Canyon trip, rent a Lambo, Ferrari, etc.

USN Chief, Submarine "coner"

19 years submarine service, and this is not really my favorite, but close.

Hey, If your voltage is low, your cable needs to be lenghtened. Simple procedure, as there is a cable and a hard to push button going to the throttle, and when you push that plastic inline button the cable will go out. Adjust it till you go to WOT.
If you have an aftermarket throttle, yo may need to look further into how people do theres to get proper WOT. I have used BBK, TPIS, and AS&M. Everyone is different.

Did you ever hear it when it was installed in the car? If not, I wouldn't worry about it. It's likely just a piece of loose slag from when it was welded together. It could be removed by a driveshaft shop by cutting it apart and then welding it back together and rebalancing it. But it's really not worth the bother and expense if it's not causing any problems or noise. If you did replace it, there'd be no reason to replace the yoke per se, unless there's a problem with it.

I see we were typing concurrently, Jim. Great minds are on the same wavelength!

Okay, just hooked the laptop back up to it (actually sitting in my car right now on wireless lol) and here are my observations:

Pedal pressed down gives 75%, 3.08 volts.

Pedal is not being stopped by the floor or floormat, it's just at the end of it's travel

Manually turning the throttle will give a 100%, 4.00 volt reading.

I *looks* like the throttle cable maybe be a little bit too long, thus not pulling the throttle to wide open.

Any ideas? Where would the best place to adjust the length of cable be if possible? Thanks.

Depending on how loud or how heavy a clunk is, I wouldn't worry about it. There are no parts inside of the tube that can break loose. It could be a piece of welding slag. Sometimes there is a piece of cardboard folded up inside before it is welded closed to reduce or eliminate a "drumming" sound from the drive shaft. If your drive shaft isn't aluminum, it isn't the original.

RACE ON!!!

That it does. I miss flying the Hog.

Quote:Awsome! I saw it was available in the MAME Emulators which is why that is going to be my next project.

Awesome, Case - thanks so much!

Dan

To reiterate a couple of points. The code designation indicates the circuit that an out of parameter reading occurred on. It says nothing about the cause of that irregular reading. A code indicating the EGR is seldom caused by a defective EGR valve. That is why I keep saying, "Don't shoot the messenger". The FSM is the best source, I am aware of, to obtain trouble shooting charts for each of the different trouble codes. A proper sequence of checks and tests can proper diagnose and eliminate, or at least reduce, the number unneeded parts, expense, and labor involved in making repairs.

The FSM is a DIY Corvette owners best tool. It isn't without the occasional mistake, and it doesn't get updated, but unlike a Chiltons or a Haynes, it covers only your year car and it come from the maker of your car. The two manuals aren't without some help, but they are seriously lacking where we really need help, diagnosis. I have no experience with AllData, but I can't have too much faith in any help you get at Auto Zone.

RACE ON!!!

Removed 84 driveshaft,removed u joints, yolk in prep to clean shaft. When I get to pats cleaner I hear a rattle/klunk from inside shaft. I can shake shaft can get sane sound . My question is is there something inside? Should I buy new one and if so should I buy new trans yolk so all is new . Thank Craig

Oooooh! That's going to be expensive....

well please cfi ...post the answer again! cause if i had the answer ..i wouldnt have a problem with it...thank you pappy



ps read somewhere that 84 had a recall on the fan switch in the compressor...the recall relocted the switch to the high pressure line...mine must have slipped thru because the only swtich in high line side is right in the compressor...thats why having the ac boys look at her ...they kin take the compressor aprat if need be..(am told has to come apart to replace that switch) just repeating stuff been told ...if i knew fer sure i wouldnt be askin id be fixing...the sensor between 6n8 is fine n the relays fine and cant find a grouned wire... only other fan switch is the one in compressor...which i cant take apart... so if see an error in my ways (besides my speelin) anybody feel free to fill me in...like said i aint spent alot of time its to cold...but have checked out all your ideas offerd n they been preciated

They're like anything else exhaust related. Some like them and some don't. The best thing for any exhaust system one is considering is to try to hear it in person.

Quote:A solenoid is a coil of wire formed around a movable ferric core, making an electromagnet when the coil is energized by electricity. When the coil is energized, the core moves. The moving core can be used for a variety of purposes; to activate an electrical switch, pull a starter drive into contact with a flywheel, open or close a valve, etc. The electrical connection is so the solenoid can function as a solenoid. In the case of the EGR solenoid on your car, the computer energizes the solenoid, under the programmed conditions, to open a valve to expose the EGR valve to a vacuum source that opens the EGR valve.

RACE ON!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXFQyPUHfhg

Ouch!!

Sounds as if you guys allready have this figured out but I'll add my experience. My previous vette, a 90 M6 car, had shorty headers, true duals with no cats and muffler elims. Talk about loud and unbearable. I drove it that way for 2 weeks, just long enough to get it dynoed. I hated the sound so much I was going to put it back to stock but first decided to try an H pipe and had the local shop fab one up. Huge difference, HUGE It made the car driveable. I actually had the chance to dyno it again a couple months later for a fresh set of before/after dyno comparisons on some new mods I was planning. I realize it was a couple months apart but the same dyno showed 7rwhp and 11 rwtrq increase.

FFW to present car. The factory H pipe on the 96 isnt a true H pipe. The opening inside mine is only about 1" or so. Dont know why they didnt open it all the way up. For reference I now have longtube headers, 3 inch true duals, H pipe, and flowmaster super 40s. I havent heard a better sounding exhaust at idle than this. Resonance is pretty bad between 1600-1900rpm however. If I can get my hands on a resonator I'm going to put it in.

I've had in excess of 30 cars (lost count), Here's a few of the more memorable ones;

It's hard to even consider it a job. Because if I were to become instantly wealthy and never had to draw another pay check, this is what I'd want to do anyway! It's like getting paid to "retire" for me.
I've always been a mechanic, for almost 35 years that's all I've done. I've worked on cars, trucks and heavy equipment for a living, and of course always old cars, fast cars and race cars as a hobby. For the last almost 16 years, I've worked in a dealership for large trucks. While the money's been good, as mechanics' wages go, needless to say the job pretty much sucks and gets worse all of the time. There's far too much bullshit to put up with that is counter-productive to just trying to do a job that's difficult enough as it is. But the bean counters at corporate seem to think keeping people under stress and pressure is the best way to increase productivity. It's been this way for the last few years since a company who owns many truck dealerships bought us out. Anyhow, screw them all, I'm waving bye-bye to all of that shit!


I'm going to work for a real hot rod shop. Not only do they share my passion for classic hot rods and other old cars, they also do performance upgrades and pretty much anything and everything, new or old, to make a car or truck just what the customer wants. I'll be overseeing the mechanical part of the operations so the owner can concentrate on major fabrication and car building, which is what he enjoys and is very good at. As well as watching over and teaching the young guys, I'll still be hands on in any critical engine work and other mechanical areas.
Current shop-owned projects:
A '67 Mustang (gasser style) with a straight axle, altered wheelbase, etc., already under way.
A couple in the planning stages:
A '55 Chevy wagon, (also gasser style) and a Model A coupe with TWO, side by side small block Chevys!
Also if you click on their website link in my sig, you'll see the Pontiac V8 powered Ford Econoline pick-up that's always an attention getter wherever it goes. It's been seen on Pinks-All Out.
Please excuse the website, it's still under construction. I've already given shit (good natured of course) to the kid that's working on it for his spelling errors. (Damn public education!)
It's likely that we'll soon be moving to a larger location, not far from the current one, and still in beautiful Valdese NC. For anyone near or coming to western NC, I'd love if you'd stop by and see us. Easy access from I-40 via exit 111. Call the shop for directions or get in touch with me in advance. You don't have to be a customer to stop in and visit. We all love shooting the bull with any and all gear-heads.
Thanks for reading this lengthy post and letting me share my passion for my new "job."

I'm sure everyone is tired of exhaust threads, but , I searched Chambered Exhaust and came up empty.

Like just about everyone else, I'am looking for something free flowing that has a nice deeeeep tone at idle and I thought about this:



sweet thunder

Anyone run these..........any sound bytes around?

Alan

Yes mate, he is a very good friend of mine. Tell him the whole story and see what he can do for you.

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DR's ...NO. Just what's left of my 11" auto cross tires. Might as well burn them away. I think we'll be running my son's Camaro when we finish installing the cam and carb intake project.

Wow, I went thru the Lycoming plant many years ago, did my first 2 years of college in Williamsport.

[quote="SpectatorRacing"]Quote:

The last 4 times I was in Vegas, I didn't go into any casinos.

Graet career History so far Frank!
More footage this comming season right!?

Catch you on the Crab Run,

Alan

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Thanks Case! Should I ask for Don?

In addition to not enabling the starter relay, VATS won't allow the injectors to fire either.
This happened on my 92 last month.
Cuisinart, the starter relay on a 92 is under the instrument panel, driver's side, left of the steering column, maybe your 90's this way.
Did you pull codes after this happened? On the 92, I got code 51 in mod 9 "pass key error". There's also codes 52 & 53. 1990 codes are probably different.

I have to wonder on waiting 4 minutes and trying a restart. I tried this and got nothing. NOTE: every time you try start the car, you restart the timer.
I let mine sit for 1/2 hour and it fired right up.
I have to wonder if the timers run a little longer than stated on the manuals.

At least the VATS connector ( on the 92) is a separate one, so it will be easier to work on. ( on the 92, it's a 2 position connector, lower steering column, with a purple/white and a white/black wire.

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It's one of the stickies I tried to get CC to add.




I was supposed to be in Vegas right now, but my buddy's dad (with whom I was going to be there) had to go in for surgery so the trip was postponed.

I think my trips to Vegas are a little different than most of you guys, though...

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I agree - built for a purpose, succeeds brilliantly at that purpose.

PM sent, I'll ship it over and you can try it.

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That whole assembly is just a mess on the manifold, I'd perfer it go away.

This is my first "electronic" motor. My last build was 10 years ago, and it was a '74 L48.

I love the A-10. I've worked on F-15, F-16, T-38, F-111, C-130, C-141, C-5's and a couple of chops, never an A-10, flown in an F-15 as a prize for being best airman. Would have loved to work on an A-10, those are some bad azz tank killa's :thumbright:

I lucked out with my '96 - had it happen to me twice last summer, but I have 2 sets of keys, and switched to the other set, and no problems after that.

Hi Ramrod, thanks for the tips. The last time I was in Vegas was 9 years ago and I think quite a few things have changed.
I'm coming over on the 20.Sept. with my brother and two friends of mine, a mens tour as you can see. We are going to stay in LA the first 3 days and then head east, altogether we'll be 20 days in the states.
I need more info on what I can do at day time besides visiting the Hoover Dam or Lake Powell. Maybe as some stated visit the LV Motor Speedway or Shelby museum.

Arnold

Did it not have a plug from the engine harness connected to it? Although I have no EGR on my '95, I left this plugged up to prevent logging a code. That's all that's required to make the PCM happy. I'm not sure if it could be programmed out but I'm sure someone knows.

Ive got that too

http://www.maxxwrench.com/

Call him and tell him Case sent you.