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1969 through 1976 Corvette.

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RE:Tata Nano
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Forgot to mention that I worked with a guy about 20 years ago that used Tata as a slang word for a woman's breast. As in "Bodacious Tatas!"

So, this would be a small tit?

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:35
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RE:Tata Nano
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I bought my Amigo for $2500. 300,000 miles on the chassis, but under 10k on the new engine. It's in GREAT shape! Looks like it has about 50k miles on it, overall.
I would much rather drive this than that little tin can, but I bet the Nano is the right product for their market though. My guess is that if they don't all fall apart in a couple weeks, they will sell like hotcakes.

I can't imagine they would be legal for export to the U.S. though. There's LOTS of people in India though...


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Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:32
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RE:Bought the AFS wheels.
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Can't wait to see how it looks. I think a set of red GS hash marks would look sharp too!


Sure, just send them to me, I'll put them on!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:30
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RE:Tata Nano
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Shows you what inflation has done over the years.
That is still more than I paid for my very first car brand new off the showroom floor in 1970. It didn't have power windows either, but it did have a/c

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:29
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RE:Bought the AFS wheels.
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Can't wait to see how it looks. I think a set of red GS hash marks would look sharp too!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:28
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RE:Tata Nano
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I don't think I'd trust driving in that on the sidewalk. Sort of like a closed in golf cart.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:26
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95-Lt1-auto-Polo-Conv, 125hp ZEX N2O dry, LE Cam 226/234 565/565 109LSA, Comp Pro Mag 1.6rr, Patriot Xtreme Springs, PCMFORLESS, K&N, AO Ram Air, 52mm TB, EM LT Headers, X-pipe, Meziere HD EWP, Vigil 2800, TransGo Shift Kit, Pro-Built Trans, 24lb SVO'...
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RE:Got my ALDL cable (now what?) Program suggestions?
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Yeah, that's the one everyone seems to use (and the only one I've gotten to work with my car so far).
Hella expensive though. <--Broke college kid

Looks like pretty slim pickings for most of our applications :sad7:

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:10
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\´92 Corvette A4 Bored and Stroked 383 LT1 Cammed 468rwhp
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Bought the AFS wheels.
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My 87 had dry rot on the Goodyears. Told the Mrs. that 17" tires and wheels make more sense than buying 16" tires, (besides, I'm not fond of the stock wheels.). She signed up for it.
Called AFS today, gave them my CC #, they said they'd ship today. 4 Kumho tires, 275/40/17, 4 17x9.5 chrome ZR1s with early C4 offset. Total price $970, shipped.

I'm stoked. Pics will follow as soon as possible.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 18:07
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RE:Tata Nano
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Holy Cow! $2500

Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:54
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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It's Football playoffs weekend.

Giants over the Cowboys
Patriots beat the Jags
Green Bay over Seattle
Charger womp the Colts. :tongue:

Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:46
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RE:Bleeding brakes
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I also would like to point out.

If you are worried about your pedal going all the way to the floor and "Damaging" something..........maybe that Master Cylinder is not the thing you want your life Dependant upon....I'm just sayin'....

Maybe now would be a good time to swap out such a critical piece of equipment rather than babying it.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:43
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RE:Bleeding brakes
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Why is bleeding the brakes such a big deal that people need fancy tools? I use an 11 mm wrench and a piece of clear hose. Yes, I need another person, but is that really that tough to find? Grab a buddy or your wife or your kid. Takes 10-15 minutes.

If you really must use speed bleeders, go ahead. I suppose they could save you time, and if a little air gets into the system you're fine on the street. But I sure as hell don't trust them on the track with my life on the line...

Dude, I couldn't agree with you more.

I am at a loss with all these recommendations for gadgets to help you do a 20 minute job.

14 year old in the driver seat. Make sure they understand that they cannot let off the brake pedal until you give the "release" command.

Take a wrench and go to the furthest wheel from the MC. Stick a piece of vacuum hose over the valve and run the other end into a coke bottle. Open the bleeder valve and tell the kid to "push"......all the way down. Then before his foot reaches the floor board you close the bleeder. then tell him to release.

Now repeat this procedure until the fluid coming into the coke bottle is nice and clear without any bubbles. Then move to the next closest wheel. The pedal won't get firm until you have finished the very last wheel.

If I have to warn you not to let the fill cup run dry then maybe you shouldn't be working on brakes by yourself.

20 minutes.....tops and the only special thing needed is a Coke bottle and a piece of tubing. The uncomfortable thing will be listening to your wife or son repeating "are we finished yet?"

Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:36
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work?
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You're absolutely correct.
I've been lucky. I usually do it when I'm done painting, after the paint flashes to keep the dust down.

I want to put an explosion proof fan in the shop I'm going to build.
Not cheap, a 16inch with shutters is $550. Yea, cheaper than a burntdown garage.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:29
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RE:Best way to flush coolant system?
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... I'd like to point out that only CC has even mentioned using Deionized water when refilling. ...



Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:27
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Really? You'll have a group of Corvettes here?
Tell me more. :thumbleft:


Should be (I'm totally guessing) between 75 and 150, with a lot of 1958s (since it's their 50th anniversary year). There will be old and new 'Vettes that have been driven from all over the US - last year someone drove a 1957 from California to Boston. I'll be there in my 1985, since the road tour is part of the next NCRS award I'm going for. I believe it's Saturday, July 19th, but not everything has been planned out yet ...

Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:23
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Quote:
A sunny day here in Rolla, MO.


I'm going to be in Rolla for a night in July - it's the final assembly point for all the NCRS road tours heading up to St. Charles.



Really? You'll have a group of Corvettes here?
Tell me more. :thumbleft:

Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:15
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RE:Best way to flush coolant system?
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Anyone mentioning better coolant flow equating to better cooling is off the mark entirely.

The Heat exchange occurs in the radiator and the ability of the radiator to dissipate the energy of the water flowing through it.

To prove my point, go out and get in a traffic jam, watch as the heat builds in the coolant system and then when it is good and hot, rev your motor and see if the added coolant flow cools the system........it won't

The only thing that will change the temperature is airflow over the radiator....not coolant passing through the inside. The slightest forward movement will bring the temps down almost 10°.

Second, I'd like to point out that only CC has even mentioned using Deionized water when refilling. Understand that even though we have mostly Steel components, Electrolysis is occuring in our cars and that is the reason that your aluminum heater core turns to mush.

You've taken an internal water source.....added minerals (by way of using tap water) so that it will carry a good charge, then you've hooked up a DC power supply to it, ensuring that the electrical charge starts to eat away at the walls of whatever metal source they come in contact with.

I know it is not real prevalent in C4s but all the newer aluminum component motor builders (including GM later years) have all accepted this fact and recommend that you use Dei water in the system.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:15
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Datamaster
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Here is a link to Datamaster, a data logging software. There is a free trial of 20 scans.


Datamaster

Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:10
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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A sunny day here in Rolla, MO.


I'm going to be in Rolla for a night in July - it's the final assembly point for all the NCRS road tours heading up to St. Charles.


Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:07
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Good morning
A sunny day here in Rolla, MO.

It's Friday, and I am not supposed to be this busy. Geeze, I don't have much time to surf C4guru.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:05
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Re: Got my ALDL cable (now what?) Program suggestions?
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Can I make changes to certain things (such as rev limiter or fuel cutoff) or would I need something more sophisticated for that?


You'll need to change the ECM chip to make these changes, and this will require chip burning hardware for your 92.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:59
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RE:did i read only 84 n 85
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thanks bog ...i hafta have me a look see at that storage bin...do remember seeing spare tire er somthin under one...for resale does z51 make her more sought??

we're not talking about the area where the spare tire is located. Look in the back area just behind your seat. There, you'll find two small doors that lift up. These are what is referred to as the Storage bins. Look on the lid of one of them and you'll see the build sheet stuck to it.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:49
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work?
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Quote:

I just use an old bedroom fan with the garage door sitting on top of it for exhaust ...


You should be worried about using "an old fan". It's an explosion hazard! If you do use an old fan, don't suck the fumes out with it. That brings the explosive vapors through the unprotected motor. Instead, blow the fumes out. It's not as effective, but at least it's less likely to go boom!


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Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:48
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RE:Found my engine vibration
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Holy Smokes!! You musta pulled your hair out finding that one, I never would have guessed.

Something to make a note of and keep in mind for sure.
Good job on tracing that one down!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:39
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work?
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I've done all my own for years including .

Don't get a HPLV from HarborFT, A friend got one, used it once and threw it away.


All of that is great info for sure. Thanks.

CC have done anything just yet?

Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:37
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RE:C4 side glass
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Yeah, I know- for some reason I just hate working on the doors, so I'll do the entire project all at once. Probably doesn't make any sense...

Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:35
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Good morning, all!

Nothing super groovy for the weekend - we'll take one the 'Vettes out tomorrow morning, but it's only to go shopping ...

... mostly football watching this weekend.


looks to be some good games this weekend, although i'm torn on who to cheer for - either Dallas or Giants.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:35
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RE:Ridley Creek State Park Hangout Sunday mornings.
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can't make it this week, but i'm going to try and get to a couple of these outings this year Maybe even with the vette vs. the dog

Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:31
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RE:Autolite Platinum Spark Plugs
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CFI,

That is good news then! Thanks

Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:25
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RE:Ridley Creek State Park Hangout Sunday mornings.
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Can't make it this Sunday. Will see you all when I return from Florida.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:11
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2002 Camaro SS (Build Date 9/10/01) Bright Ra
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RE:C4 side glass
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Both of mine are scratched and I have all new window felts but I'm not installing them until I get new glass.
My side glass is all scratched from the outer seals. You would be OK to install new felts and/or seals on scratched glass. I have the glass, but I won't install them next to the hard seals that scratched the old glass.

RACE ON!!!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:06
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RE:Autolite Platinum Spark Plugs
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Reread the last part of the post by Notorious, quoted below. The ONLY benefit to the platinum plugs, is their longer life. There is no performance advantage. If you are a cruiser or waxer that pays to have his plugs changed, there could be an advantage to the higher priced platinums, with labor costs what they are. However, for most people I would expect to find in the tech area of a forum, tinkerers who wouldn't, couldn't, leave spark plugs alone for longer than the life of a standard plug, the standard plug will save significant money with no sacrifices. Your trusted sales person should have asked some more questions and continued his "down sell" even farther.

Quote:
I use standard Autolites in the Vette. That's because I like to keep them fresh anyway, so there's no use in buying plats for it since long life is their main benefit.


RACE ON!!!

Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:57
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RE:NCRS Florida Regional Is This Week
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Has anybody had a chance to check it out?

Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:53
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Good morning, all!

Nothing super groovy for the weekend - we'll take one the 'Vettes out tomorrow morning, but it's only to go shopping ...

... mostly football watching this weekend.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:50
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RE:Best way to flush coolant system?
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[quote="CasetheCorvetteman"]
The electric water pump can still leak from the rear, and it can also leak where it mates to the block just the same as a stock unit.




You are wrong in that there is no place for the Meziere Electric Coolant pump to leak in the rear as this hole which connects the manual pump to the cam driven gear is eliminated. If done correctly, you even eliminate a possible oil leak at the gear driven seal on the timing cover. And we all know that "down under" the oil is on top of the engine.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:44
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RE:C4 side glass
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Do they have any scratches? If not, I'll buy them if the price is reasonable. Both of mine are scratched and I have all new window felts but I'm not installing them until I get new glass.


They're in good shape, I sent you a PM.

Thanks.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:43
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RE:Why I do my own work........
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I'm going to put some RTV on the threads and that should solve that. This application is one of torque, so it will torque down the way it is.


As long as you can get the specified torque on the bolts they should not loosen. Thread sealer may help with leaks, but will not maintain torque over time. Are the bolts torque to yield? That will make a huge difference.

Personally, I'd have just used some JB Weld and skipped the bolts altogether :tongue:

Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:38
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RE:Why I do my own work........
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I would have done the same thing!

I always say I can F it up as good as any mechanic can

Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:38
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Well, I'm still coughing, three weeks later. Sorry to say... :sad10:

Hope ya feel better real soon! (And that you don't have exactly what I had/have)

Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:37
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RE:List your favorite military vehicle!
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I'm not a huge military buff, but I love these timeless designs...

P-51 Mustang
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F-18 Hornet
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Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:34
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work?
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I've done all my own for years including fiberglass.
You sure can beat the budget shops because you'll take your time.
I've used the plastic stuff many times. I screwed some 1 x 2's into the ceiling so I could attach the plastic with a staple gun. The 1 x 2's are about 2 ft away from the wall so they cover the toolbox, drillpress, etc. I overlap 2 pieces of plastic by 3 ft, this eliminates having to tape the whole seam and I don't get overspray leaking out.
I just use an old bedroom fan with the garage door sitting on top of it for exhaust and use 2x4's to hold down the plastic on the floor.
One of the problems with this setup is getting enough light inside the "booth". I just got 2 new halogen work lites but haven't tried them yet and would probably put them outside the booth since they ger so hot.

I would get HPLV guns even if you have to wait for the compressor to catch up. The gravity guns can put enough mist in your "booth" to make it hard to see. I'm using a compressor smaller than yours with a HPLV trim gun.
You'll probably need the booth for your truck inrterior but, spraying trim parts, even an engine block with a HPLV can be done with just plastic on the floor and won't mess up your shop.

Paints are all over the place in quality and ease of use. I liKe PPG 2 part Urethanes, they hold up really well and prevent chips better than anything I've used except Emron. The problem is that they're expensive. A quart of Corvette yellow to do my racecar was over $150 plus the catalyst.
I found some new paint on the web by Kirker that I want to try. The most expensive gallon was $66 plus activator.
If you want to puke, price the "House of Color" stuff.
For custom work, I use AutoAirColor and to go inexpensive, I use model car paint. You can get some cool pearls by Boyd Cottington at a hobbyshop for $4 a can, spray it from the can and coat with PPG clear with no problems. Most say don't mix brands but I do all the time on custon stuff (wouldn't paint my Vette that way though). I've done quite a few helmits like this.

If you're gonna primer the interior of your truck, I use a 2 part epoxy primer, it's really worth the money down the road.

Try these: www.autobodytoolmart.com (has the Kirker paint but gun prices are a little high)

www.spraygundepot.com ( good prices and a bunch of links)
check out Devilbiss "FinishLine" guns, very good quality and reasonable.

Don't get a HPLV from HarborFT, A friend got one, used it once and threw it away.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:16
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RE:Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Apparently, whatever you had was contagious. Now I feel like crap. Better this weekend than next. Next weekend I start vacation.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:16
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Friday Chat 01.11.08
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Good Morning Gurus!

Ah, FRIDAY!

It would be better for me if I did not have to work tomorrow, but it is Friday nonetheless...

Not much new on my end. The new job deal is looking more promising, but also perhaps further away time wise. Coupla months, maybe. Whatever. If it happens, then it is meant to be. No sense getting worked up about things I cannot control.

Any of you folks have super groovy weekend plans?

Posted on: 2008/1/11 15:05
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RE:Found my engine vibration
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Quote:
That is interesting....I'm having an off idle vibration problem on my 92ZR1 & it was suggested to me by a member that the TPS could be the problem. Its my understanding that theres a carbon track inside the TPS itself & sometimes the track wears thin where it shouldnt be. Its like a rheostat (dimmer switch) & votage decreases with throttle position.

The area on the TPS where the throttle spends alot of time can wear thin & cause a false voltage reading to the ECM in turn causing a miss at that position.

I am working on getting a scanner to see what the readings look like.


Just connect a voltmeter to the TPS, then turn your ignition on, but do not start the car, then read the volts as you move the throttle blades by hand.

Voltage should start at .XX and go up as you open the throttle body blades.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 14:47
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RE:Found my engine vibration
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My TPS has been known to log codes just because it was in a bad mood, I think!


I hear you ...

Posted on: 2008/1/11 14:42
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RE:Why I do my own work........
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it makes me wonder... why would the mechanic go out of his way to use 5/16" bolts when 8mm should have been included??? In other words, it would not have surprised me if Accel included the wrong bolts.

I would have tapped them to the 5/16"... if for no other reason than to standardize all those bolts to standard measure.


Even if Accel included the wrong bolts, the person doing the install should have figured it out as soon as they tried to tighten them up.

No excuse.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 14:00
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RE:Found my engine vibration
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/21 0:00
From Colorado
Posts: 143
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That is interesting....I'm having an off idle vibration problem on my 92ZR1 & it was suggested to me by a member that the TPS could be the problem. Its my understanding that theres a carbon track inside the TPS itself & sometimes the track wears thin where it shouldnt be. Its like a rheostat (dimmer switch) & votage decreases with throttle position.

The area on the TPS where the throttle spends alot of time can wear thin & cause a false voltage reading to the ECM in turn causing a miss at that position.

I am working on getting a scanner to see what the readings look like.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 14:00
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RE:Why I do my own work........
Elite Guru
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2005/9/9 0:00
Posts: 1778
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Quote:
The bottom line is that it worked out, and for that I'm pleased for the OP. But changing the thread pitch from metric to 5/16 NC could only have done more damage than would have chasing the threads back to what they were already cut to. The two sizes are virtually identical as far as diameter goes, as has already been stated here. So making the slight change to the pitch would only remove that much more metal. This makes the bolt fit a bit looser and problems more likely in the future.


I would have gone to the store and picked up a 8MM thread if I had to.

The issue is that the first few threads, and about 1/2 way down, were chewed up.

There was no material there to get back to 8MM they were already destroyed.

Since the first few threads were forced SAE, I went with SAE. I don't care what the measurement was, I just wanted them to work.

I'm going to put some RTV on the threads and that should solve that. This application is one of torque, so it will torque down the way it is.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 13:59
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RE:Found my engine vibration
Guru Newb
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00
Posts: 11
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hi

i recently helped a friend with a 89 Vette, ´730ECM...

his ECM was bad, and didnt take any voltage from the TPS...according to Datamaster, TPS was always at 1.000 Volts, and..DIDN´T set a code...

Posted on: 2008/1/11 13:43
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RE:List your favorite military vehicle!
Elite Guru
Joined:
2007/9/2 0:00
From Western Philadelphia Burbs
Posts: 4247
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Quote:
After decommissioning this old girl I got out of the service.


The Sara's a new carrier to me - I served on the Coral Sea ...

Posted on: 2008/1/11 13:23
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Grace, 2003 50th Anniversary Convertible
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